I recently purchased a 1/4" endmill for use in ice but I’m wondering if it could also be used for roughing/surfacing woods or if the required (assumingly lower) plunge and/or stepover would make it really not worth as much gain as one might think?
It should work just fine. You will have to do some test runs to get it dialed in but, as few flutes as possible, remember we have extremely high RPM.
What’s the secret formula in dialling it in? I do have the speed control so I could cut the RPM but I’m willing to bet cutting the RPM via speed control is not the best way? I would think the torque or horsepower diminishes as well vs perhaps a spindle or adjustable speed unit from the factory? Or am I wrong and factory “speed control” is just a built in potentiometer?
As for dialling in the bit - it is audible strain I’m looking to avoid, burning, chatter, fire or explosions? ; )
Have a look at the calc on the basics page.
If you are going to be doing much surfacing, something with a wider cut would be worthwhile. I surface my spoil board with a 1" bit on a 1/4" shank. Once the surfacing is done I can switch to a normal cut bit for whatever project I’m working on.
To help me compare with the numbers the Cut Calc thing is showing me, what rates to do use on that bit?
I didn’t really change my rate with it and only overlapped by 10% or so when cutting MDF with DOC under 1mm. YMMV.