I have been working on my CNC for about three weeks, starting with printing all the parts. Here they are:
I also printed parts to use my angle grinder as a cutoff saw for the conduit:
Here’s my nearly-completed machine. I’ve just gotten the axes moving using the LCD, but I think I need to get a real drive coupler to get the z axis working better.
Still need to get it bolted down in its new home, and then start learning to use the CAM software.
Thanks, Ryan, for making this journey possible for me!
Northern Tool has a similar mount for an angle grinder chop saw, but I could never bring myself to spend the $25 or so for something I wouldn’t need very often. Then I saw this: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:317474. Worked perfect for my application. The clamp I printed was a little large for my harbor freight grinder, but I just wrapped in a strip of rubber pond liner I had laying around. The clamp can be sized to fit, though. Wear safety glasses!
SUCCESS! I finally got everything ironed out and had my first successful print (with a sharpie in the tool holder). Tomorrow I hope to do my first cut!
Used a 1/2 inch harbor freight end mill, 15mm/s feedrate, 1mm depth, 65% step over. Next time I do one of these, I will oversize the slot so it can be cut with the 1/2 inch bit and still fit the t-slots, and I’ll also put the two boards together and cut the slots for both at the same time (just set the depth to 31mm). I might also speed it up some - either faster feed rate or deeper cuts. But I shouldn’t need to do this again for awhile.
The only thing left is dressing the bed.
These t-slots are awesome! They take 1/4-20 carriage bolts, which are cheap and readily available. I couldn’t find a 1/4-20 knob with a trapped nut, so I remixed my own. Here’s what I used:
Meant to be test cuts, but they came out so well, we’ll probably use them! Really liking the carve feature of ESTLCAM. I’ve used a 1/2 inch 90 degree and 1/4 inch 60 degree bit so far. I’ve ordered a set of 10, 15, 20, and 30 degree bits for finer work.
Getting your z-zero correct is key, especially for carving. I find it’s better to be too deep that than not deep enough, so I usually set my zero a few tenths of a mm below the surface.
looks like someone is about to have the machine pay for itself pretty soon. Those signs cleaned up really well. Thanks for the new vid and the inspiration to try the esltcam carve feature.
GREAT WORK!!
Can you please share a few things? Which dust collector head is that? Are the files available on thingiverse? What OD did your use for the sharpie holder? What cable chain did you use? Printed or purchased?
I recently ordered the carving bits and hope to get them soon.
Curt
