The use of “mesh” in several places in the Marlin bed levelling documentation can lead to confusion. As @Atom states above, mesh bed leveling is done through a manual process. I don’t have direct experience with that as I included a differential IR probe on my 3D printer.
The option that use on my printer (haven’t tried it on the MPCNC) is Unified Bed Leveling or UBL. It uses the probe to measure the bed at a number of points (up to a 10 by 10 grid) and builds a “mesh” that it stores in eeprom and can then apply corrections to Z heights in different amounts at different coordinates on the bed. It works well in conjunction with Baby Stepping.
My understanding is that linear and bilinear are best when you have a flat (planar) bed that may be mounted at a slight angle. UBL is best for beds (like mine) that may have irregular high and low spots - I print on glass on top of a pc-board heater and have multiple glass tops I can switch out. I can build a mesh for each glass that I’ve got and store up to 10 in eeprom. When it’s time to print you can activate the mesh that matches the currently installed glass piece. I then do a quick 3-point check before each print and “tilt” the mesh to match the current bed situation since the may not have gone back down exactly the same as it was the last time it was used.
Bilinear works a lot like ubl. I have one printer with bilinear and it probes the whole grid (25 points) when I send G29. I do that each print. Then it interpolates between points to get the right Z. The other has UBL and it has 81 points, which would be annoying to do every print, but it gets saved to eeprom. I think you can save the bilinear grid to eeprom too, but I haven’t tried.
In his other thread I have gone through his configuration.h and got it to the stage where it will compile, he only needs to enter the offsets but he is still getting errors
This is on my 310mmx310mm gridbot, and I had some problems with the first bed. It turned out it was flexing in funny ways as it was heating up. I am sure I hit the 9x9 grid at some point in my testing and tuning and never turned it down.
I also have a (pretty annoying) 5 min wait after I heat the bed up, but before I print. I have replaced the first bed, and I think the second one works better. But if I change anything and I don’t get perfect adhesion, I’m going to doubt myself.
But yeah, I don’t mind the 81 points. I don’t have to do them. The BL Touch does. . And I only do those once a month or whatever when I change something.
Yeah if it works it works, no need to mess with non-broken items… and yes it’s not much more than a little bit of time and maybe slightly more wear, but no labor for more probing. TBH, I would use more of a grid if I had a bltouch. With my inductive I would have to cover my bed in target dots.
That is nice that you are getting away with probing only once a month. My printer changes z ever so slightly depending on bed and nozzle temps (like 0.15mm diff between say, nylon and pla). This is likely due to thermal expansion of the bed and/or nozzle. So I have my slicer do a probe before every print. I also have a short wait after bed preheat, but not forced; I have the bed preheat before the nozzle. So the bed gets to soak for about a minute or 2 before probing for leveling.
[edit: I didn’t explain how I work around my issue with z changing… to compensate for that I have my slicer configured for a different z offset for each different filament. So really leveling every time is probably not needed… but not fixing it as it works. Ironic though, that my printer may actually probe more points per month than yours if I do a lot of prints. LOL!]
You want to lave it zero at first. Then probe the bed. Use the z offset on the screen to calibrate it down(negative number) until the nozel is at the proper distance from the bed. Then save your settings
Or that is how I do it. Because if you put to big of a negative number in the firmware it will cause the nozzel to crash into the bed. But the bltouch should always trigger before the nozel hits the bed. So leaving it zero in the firmware is the safe choice.
Estou com o mesmo problema e mais alguns… A impressora está funcionando todos os eixos como também a mesa aquecida, hotend e o extrusor individualmente, mas quando ligo a mesa aquecida e a hotend ou vice-versa o sistema todo reinicia, obtive sorte duas vezes conseguindo deixar na temperatura desejada, a ultima vez mandei imprimir só que os eixos não se moveram como também o extrusor, porém na TFT35 apresentava que estava em operação, imprimindo.
Rezo que apareça algum santo de boa fé pra ajudar o velhinho de 92 anos que ainda tenta nessa vida imprimir peças 3D
-Placa de controle BIGTREETECH® SKR Mini E3 V2 com driver TMC2209
-TFT35 E3 V3.0
I had to use Google translate, but I understand your problem is that the machine turns off or restarts when you try to print. This sounds like it could be caused by your power supply being to small for the load of the printer.
Can you provide information on what printer your using and what power supply your using to power it?
M112 is emergency shutdown. It happens when marlin encounters a critical error. Check that all your limits witches are working properly as that is the number one cause for that. But it can also be called because of an error with your auto leveling system.
. And I only do those once a month or whatever when I change something.
