4 inches would probably be much better. But there might be a middle ground where you can still get a good z height. That bowden setup probably makes the difference with that other setup.
I agree.
Do a quick test buy moving you glass plate up on a box or something. See if your speeds can be increased that way, if not your middle assembly is too loose.
Let us know so we can start to put some firm size limits on this if we are reaching them. My z axis is 6"-8" and my next build will be shorter. I have only printed 1 large item on my robo and that was 1 lamp shade, other than that biggest things I print are the roller f’s.
Actually I tested same thing as you wrote, but the issue is still seen even though middle assembly is tight.
I can see frame is not stable either due to tall height when printing. X and Y axis pipe is shuddering when the motor starts to move or stops but it is not while moving.
I think additional X and Y axis pipes in the middle of the legs or leg holes for rigid fix are required to protect shuddering with tall Z axis.
My current measurements for height:
10 3/4 in on the tallest axis pipe
My Z axis pipe is 15 in and my print height area is around 8 in.
I ended up buying Vicious printed parts since my parts were so weak and the Z couldn’t get any tighter. Now its really rigid and I do not need my extra support panels that I had previously.
I was seeing terrible wobble in my prints when I first started out. turned out my bed wasn’t secure enough to handle all the movement from friction of the pipes before my zinc was wore down enough. now I’m printing at speeds up to 50mm/s reliably.
Here’s a video of mine going 70mm/s (with obvious errors in layer adhesion because of the speed).
No more z wobble since I fixed the bed movement issue.
If I ever catch up on printed parts, would love to do some speed runs! It would have to be a pretty big part because of how low I have the accelerations but I think we might be able to make a contest out of it somehow. It would be cool to see who has there machines dialed in well.
Does anyone have settings for ultra and detail print settings for the MPCNC?
If I use Vicious’ settings from the screenshots you get really good results… BUT not close to what the parts look like he sends.
Was thinking a very dialed in .1mm and .05 or .2mm
I’m not sure what you are asking. Those are the exact settings I use for the parts I send out.
What do your parts look like? You might be having a different issue.
I never really go lower than .2 anymore. There isn’t a ton of benefit of thinner layers and it cost a ton of time. I use the .2 if it has some steep overhangs, other than that I stick with the published settings. I did a print of my head at .1mm took 74hours, never again.
I used the standard .2752 and .32 for the first layer.
all the other screens are the same…
The sides of the parts look no where near the smoothness of the parts that you send out. They look great, but… no where near.
I created a profile similar to the persa i3 ultra where its .1 and .15 for the first layer… it looked way much better (double the time) but still not close to your smoothness on your parts…
Took me more than 3 months to figure that out. Turn up your extruder stepper driver.
feel the filament right as it goes into the extruder. You can feel it pulse, turn up the driver until that pulse goes away. Let it print a while and make sure the stepper doesn’t get too hot. Something fishy about the MK8 knock offs, they all take vastly different power. I have 1 at .55v and 1 at 1V Identical steppers.
Understood… I turned it up to .750 and still slight pulse (faster pace)… will keep adjusting… Thank you
Finally I found the problem.
My z-axis conduit was not orthogonal to x-axis conduit, it was slightly tilted to left.
So it was shifted to left as height increased.
After fixing the tilting, shifting is disappeared and 15Cm height printing is successful with 50mm/s speed.
There is no need to decrease z-axis height… (my build area is still 400mmX400mmX250mm)
One more thing I changed is the leg (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:902483).
It has only 2 screw holes so it can stand the shaking with one direction, additional 2 holes are added to the opposite side to fix the legs firmly.
(I replaced the legs with stainless ones at last like the attached picture)
I also found another problem with knock off mk8s. Ryan didn’t have any in stock when I ordered my parts so I got one off eBay and only now have found that the nozzle they sent is not anywhere near what it should be size wise. I bought some other nozzles from a us seller and have been getting awesome prints now.
What do you mean by “ramp it up”? Which setting would you increase? I think i am there as i am getting consistent prints since i added a NPN switch.