Yeah, I haven’t looked at how this works. I assume a negative offset would move X1 in the positive direction, so it wouldn’t clobber the endstops. At any rate, that also probably needs some clarity.
I think most of those instructions were when we assumed it would be a niche setup. From the perspective of the forums, it seems like a lot of people are doing it. But maybe it just the setups that generate more posts…
@Jeff, I completely understand where you’re coming from. I didn’t mention that because I felt you were condescending in any way, but only because I’m new around here and didn’t want you guys to think I’m a dope.
Maybe this will help folks in the future.
*Note: X2 endstop and Y2 endstop need to be on adjacent corners in order to be capable of adjusting both diagonals through with firmware. Not strictly required.
I think it’s a nomenclature issue. X/X1 vs X1/X2.
But it is a relevant distinction.
As far as I know the firmware for the rambo only adjusts the motors plugged into the x2 and y2 ports. And from what I understand it won’t adjust them below zero. So to get the results that you’re expecting I think it’s important to understand the rules we’re playing by.
If you expect to be able to adjust both diagonals “directly” then you need x2 and y2 endstops at adjacent corners. If they’re on the same corner, like I had originally assumed, or opposite corners you’ll only be able to tweak one diagonal. In either of the latter two scenarios you can still get the job done but you’ll need to take a slightly different approach than what Ryan described in his instructions.
[EDIT - Sorry I misunderstood your reply]
@Bill, that’s what I thought at first as well but the instructions did start out saying X1, Y1, X2, and Y2. The comments in the firmware also refer to them as 1 and 2.
I can go back and change all the pictures to match what the firmware says or should I do it to what the boards have printed on them (every board is different)?
The point is one can be adjusted if it is not the one you need you can just swap where it is plugged into the board. So you are kinda getting lost on labels and missing the idea. As for negative offset, no you can not drive it past the stop block, you would offset the other stepper (by swapping where it is plugged in), or moving the block back one tooth.
I understand where you are coming from and what a very exact precise tuning manual it does not work here, we do not make complete kits built the same exact way. As soon as someone builds a machine facing the other direction it is all lost or what about when it is used on a LowRider. If you keep it general it applies to all builds, worst case you apply and offset and the discrepancy gets worse, 2 minutes lost, no big deal.
I have only ever needed the offset one time on one stepper, getting each side within 2mm on a standard build is usually close enough.
I’m not sure if that is rhetorical but I’d vote go by the firmware, headers labeled extruders are wrong at this point anyway. Again, just my vote.
[quote]
The point is one can be adjusted if it is not the one you need you can just swap where it is plugged into the board. [/quote] Note we would also have to reverse the pins. The RAMBo connectors on the board only go in one way, so reversing could be a PITA depending on how someone made their motor cables (eg soldered and heat shrinked).
[quote]So you are kinda getting lost on labels and missing the idea.[/quote] Well I got your idea now after I matched up my labels with yours 
That’s my point. The instructions make certain assumptions without letting us know what they are or that assumptions were even made in the first place. Speaking just for my self, it would have been helpful for me to have had an illustration like the one I put together in post #95702 above. If it doesn’t match the coordinate system someone setup for themselves at least they could see they’re starting from a different perspective than the instructions.
None of it is complicated. If we’re smart enough to get this far in building a homemade cnc machine we can figure out how to square some rails. I personally just got lost in trying to peek inside the mind of Allted !
My wire kits fit either direction. This is another one of those, if I mass produced a complete kit they would be keyed but since I don’t non-directional is easiest.
I will look into it the next time through the instructions. As it currently stands by far the largest issue with the dual endstops is people not getting the actual switch on the correct side. Maybe when I clarify the instructions on this simple test it will clear up what you had an issue with as it forces you to check (takes 10 seconds).
I really do understand your perspective but from my side being more vague seems to really help people just get in and try it. Nothing will get ruined or destroyed and the point of an inexpensive build is to learn without fear of destroying several thousands of dollars worth of machine. As an example the second I labeled the tension bolts on the middle assembly I got flooded with a new type of question “my Gantry is doing ####, Which bolt do I turn to fix it?”. Instead of asking they easily could have just turned the bolts to see what happened like they did before I gave them specific names. I have intentionally made some things more vague.
So does @kd2018’s diagram in post #95702 correctly capture which sides should be adjustable? In my understanding, it doesn’t really matter but if you use #kd2018’s orientation then you can more easily use the diagonals trick to verify things are square. Is that correct?
In my build I set the X1 rail as the rail closest to Y=0 (like the diagram he included in #95636)
sigh doesn’t look like it’s right… The firmware says x2 and y2 ports are adjusted but after messing with things last night it looks like it actually what ever is plugged into x1 and y1. Gotta love it when this stuff is consistently inconsistent.
Feel free to make an issue or PR in Marlin. It can only get better from here.
This should be an exhibit to the Dual Endstop tutorial. This would have saved me a rewire lol … instead of thinking Xmin and Xmax …
This thread was helpful also … for those of us that were stuck on dual endstops.
You’re not wrong. The docs are open source and in github. If anyone wants to take a crack at making the changes, I will happily finish/edit them. Clear documentation is always welcome.
I’ve received a bunch of help from the community, and will gladly take a stab at it and send your way in a few days.
If only these pictures were still here
