I did know about the USB-C, but you taught me something new with the HDMI-CEC!!! I didn’t realize that part! That’s amazing thank you for that bit of info! I never wire in my PI for arcades with the GPIO tho, I was told to always use a legit power supply to avoid those undervoltage warnings.
takes notes
Can I see your set up please and cost? I’m thinking about building a cheap DYI CNC router so I can do all my kitchen cabinets plus other furniture.
Kind regards,
Jeff
He has got the Lowrider, you can find all the information you need on this page (LowRider CNC | V1 Engineering Inc).
I’m sorry to bother I want to hire someone to do this for me what should I be searching for? like mdf cutter machine services? carpnter? cabinet maker?
If I google my area there are tons of places listed under CNC Wood Cutting.
You could also find a maker space with a CNC router and get a membership… they may run courses on how to use them and you just do it yourself.
Thank You for the reply! I looked up maker space ( had no idea that was a thing) 1.5 hours away will look into it.
The added benefit is you are self-sufficient like a fishermen and it is fun. This group has kept me sain and on track through a lot in the last 3 years so thank you also.
Pricing for professional cnc work is generally not going to be affordable for something like this. Learning how to do it at a maker space is an excellent option, for both the knowledge gained and the relatively low cost for a project like this (assuming your local maker space has a cnc route… not all of them do). Another approach might be just asking at online forums if there are hobbyists who might take the job on.
Also, you didn’t mention what all is needed… do you have a design and solid model ready to cut, or would you need design/drafting work as well? This will play a huge role in your search for help.
I have the style and plans of what I need. and you are correct not all have one unfortunately for me.
I will also mention that you don’t have to use a CNC for something like this. You can find a lot of people doing the rough cuts with circular saws, jigsaws, or band saws and then doing the finished edges using sanders or routers with guides. Norm Abrams in the new yankee workshop used to make all kinds of shapes this way. He usually made a thinner template (1/8" or 1/4" ply) and then used that to lay out the pieces and guide the router.
These shapes are easy for a CNC. But they aren’t too difficult for more traditional power tools. And with a few compromises, like exposed screw heads, or filler before paint, anyone can make an arcade.
I made templates and used a bushing with a router to make my first cabinet without a cnc. Lots more work but fun. This book was kind of the Bible for arcade builds probably still useful.
This forum is where everyone talks about builds… or did when I made mine
I really like your finished system. I tried to make one this last year and not wanting exposed screw heads, I struggled joining the pieces together. I’ll post the result in another thread. From a distance, it looks ok and the graphics help a lot, but up close there is much to be desired and I’d like to learn how to better connect the pieces. Any insights you could share would be helpful to get a clean yet durable board to board joint with mdf for an arcade with 1/2" mdf which appears to be what you used. My first goto is a pilot hole and screw, but that leaves an exposed head and I don’t see any of those on your system.
Hi @orob, you don’t want to use screws into the edge of an mdf board under most circumstances since it splits so easily. #1 here is what I used… just including #2 FYI
The pattern I cut had tabs on one side and matching grooves halfway through the board on the other side… you put it together with some wood glue and clamp it (No screws). Wood glue is so good these days the joint will be stronger than the mdf.
If you are in a situation where you want to join two mdf boards 90 degrees and you don’t have a groove you can cut a small board out of hardwood or pine and put it in the inside corner where the two meet, screwing through the face of the mdf into this board (also using glue). There is a pilot hole drill bit called a countersink that can make your screws flush with the wood then you can add wood glue and sawdust to cover the screw and sand flat.