Basic Table Plans?

I’ve looked all over the forums, and couldn’t find anything definitive. So I’ll ask.

 

Are there plans for the table, that include all the offsets for the wheels, spoil board height, etc that are available for someone just getting started? I’ve seen a lot of ideas, but no actual plans. I’m not wanting something extravagant, just something basic to get started, that can be upgraded later.

 

Thanks in advance!

There is a size calculator on the parts page. I run my spoil board all the way out to the wheels. The thickness of whatever the wheels ride on needs to be less than 4in. Barry made a thick paulk workbench, but his wheels ride on unistrut on the sides.

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Thank you! So a 2x4 on it’s side (vertical) would be ok for the ‘rails’ the wheels ride on, and then build inward from there? I’m also building mine 1" wider and 1" longer than the 4x8 setup, since I primarily cut MDF, and here the MDF is 49" wide by 97" long.

So the wheels, and the spoil board run at the same height?

Just to be sure, in order to cut a full sheet you need a table that’s a fair bit bigger than the sheet. The calculator that Jeff mentioned is the best way to figure on dimensions.

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Thanks Brent! So basically, as long as I build what the calculator says as far as dimensions, and use common structural support for the table, it will work? I feel like I’ve way over engineered my table now haha

 

 

So, something like this? I ‘think’ I’ve seen photos of the table where there’s a gap between the spoil board and where the rollers go. I may be wrong, which is probably the case. lol

So here’s my initial idea. The legs are 36" 2x6’s, the top and bottom frame are 2x4’s, and the spoil board supports are 2x3’s. To build, or not to build… That’s the question now… :smiley:

Thank you guys for all the help so far! If I get y’alls approval, I’ll start building it this week!

EDIT: Forgot to post the pics.

Looks good. FYI, if you have a table saw that can rip 2x material, the 2x10 and 2x12 boards are usually clearer with straighter grain, because they have to cut them from the center of the tree.

Speaking of over engineering…

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SWEET! I’ll start building it in the evenings this week after I clock out of the 9-5. I actually didn’t know that about 2x10’s/12’s. Might be what I do, and just rip them down. Good looking out man! Thanks!

Hey guys, one more thing. Today I was at my local Sam’s Club, and saw this heavy duty metal work bench that’s adjustable, AND it had leveling feet on it. I know my shop floor kinda dips a little towards the back, so I was planning on getting leg levelers anyway for my table, but then I thought “Why couldn’t I just mount my torsion box on top of this table?!”

It would rest narrowly in the center of my torsion box only 25", but giving me enough space to use L Brackets to fasten it to and it would expand at least 80% of the length of the torsion box. Could this work? Or would it be too narrow? My torsion box will be 112"x57". I’ve included as well, my torsion box new plan, for adding a little bit more support, and also showing the Sam’s Club table top in reference to my build.

 

Here’s a link, and a couple screen shots for those not comfortable clicking links. https://www.samsclub.com/p/height-adj-workbench-ultrahd/prod22651720?xid=plp_product_1_5

 

I think this will tip over. You’re supporting 5’x9’ with a 2’x4’ base. Even with the L brackets, the feet won’t be any wider.

All metal is nice but also probably overkill. As long as your work is securely attached to the top, then any wiggles in the base wont hurt your work. It might even dampen things a little and reduce the forces at the top.

I think your original plan was 4x better and 4x cheaper. Plus, if you make it out of dimensional lumber, you can just screw in a drawer or a support, or a cupholder.

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Ok great, thanks for setting me straight! I’ll go with my original design! Should start working on it this week. It’s getting cold here in the south, and rainy, so it will be challenging, but I’ll get it done this weekend for sure!

I’m gonna go up to my shop after work tomorrow and get the Maslow to cut out the flat parts for the Lowrider… Am I going to hell for that? LOL

Kinda cool in my book. You built a CNC and are using it to build another, circle of life right there, and it makes you sound like a genius!

I am pretty interested to see what you think about the differences and how you might use each of them when you have two. It also makes me nervous, what if the LR is not as good to you?

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Amen to that! I like the way you think! Kinda like RepRap in the early days, dubbed as “The Printer That Prints Itself!”.

Spoiler Alert: TLDR incoming…

I’m dying to try the LR out. I think it’s going to be more suited to me and what I’m trying to do, vs the Maslow. The Maslow was a good kit, but it definitely has it’s disadvantages. But it got me into the world of CNC. I’ve always had 3D Printers. I know they’re CNC as well, but it’s just not the same to me. You plug a 3D model into a slicer and it does all the work for you. CNC tho, you have to tell the machine every move to make. And again, thank you Maslow for getting me well trained in the CAM side of things, so now I can build a ‘Real Machine’ and I won’t be in the dark with how to use it.

I think the LR will far exceed my expectations. I need the accuracy. The LR can give me that, Maslow can’t. I build arcade cabinets, bartops, and fight sticks. MM’s matter. I’ve seen the LR’s repeatability. I’ve yet to see Maslow do it. I cut out a Dragon’s Lair cabinet to replace my beat up original. With the Maslow, you either get Y accuracy, or X accuracy. Can’t have them both. And sheet 1 parts wouldn’t be the same fit as sheet 2 parts. Which sucks. I wish I had found LR first. I’d already be singing your praises by now :slight_smile:

Thank you for an amazing design. I’m almost done printing my parts. I’ll start the table this weekend, and as soon as the spousal unit says I can go ahead, I’m buying the hardware kit from you with the RAMPS board. So hopefully buy mid January, I’ll be cutting accurate parts and building my 2nd LR haha

EDIT: I think I’ll probably sell my Maslow once I get the parts cut out for the LR. That’s how confident I am in your machine :slight_smile:

An arcade cabinet is one of those projects I always want to make but never do. Last time I started and couldn’t decide what style controller to do. I ended up playing all sorts of old games. I think If I ever do it I would just want some cool two player (or more) games. 1942/43 type stuff, maybe even the old golden tee.

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Build a MAME cabinet… :smiley:

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I did a ron paulk table… maybe it’s overkill.

I was going to do something similar with an adjustable table from home depot - joining two together and I gave up once as I could never get them to level out with each other.

 

 

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The REAL classics! I loved those vertical games. But I’m also a fan of the bigger 25’s & 27’s in those 4 player cabs too. At current, I own an original Dragon’s Lair (Laserdisc still works) original Space Ace (Laserdisc definitely needs replacement) a Ms Pacman, and a TMNT (Konami 4 player)

Ms Pac is getting a facelift (which is why the banker (wife lol) is making me wait til jan 2 to order the hardware). She’s going from that pale faded blue to all blacked out, completely tricked out cabinet art. Example below.

 

This ^

That is one sleek table!!! You just gave me hella ideas, I appreciate you sharing that!

Just be aware that there is an approx. 4" rail thickness limit, so that paulk table will need some kind of rails on the sides for the LR. Barry uses unistrut for that, and some others have followed.

That’s actually exactly what I was thinking. Putting some rails on it, but I’m gonna stick with my initial design. It’s simple, and won’t take me long to build. I did get the solid bottom idea from him tho. Would be nice to store my vac, some squares, clamps, etc underneath. The ideas I got, was adding shelving underneath. But I’m not thinking so much on that as everything would get completely covered in MDF powder LOL!

 

BTW: What kinda speeds does the LR get with 1/4" 2 Flute upcut spirals? As in, fastest it will cut, while still maintaining good cuts, and accuracy. I think I read a few speeds, and I saw Ryan’s conservative speeds, but what’s everyone else getting outta their machines these days?

I’ve not tried a speed run with mine. I generally use the same speeds as my mpcnc, it’s just bigger. ?‍♂️

Works well for game controller stuff though.

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