I was wondering if anyone has some good online beginner resources they can point me too for learning about CAM setups. I’m not looking for specific software tutorials, but maybe some lessons on the actual mechanical side of things. Developing tool paths, which tools to use when, that sort of thing. I’m still in assembly now, and will plan on using HD foam to practice on before getting started with MDF and eventually working my way up to hardwoods. If there are software tutorials that provide this sort of background that would be fine too. Whatever I can get my hands on to learn the basics before I dive in and cause chaos.
In addition, I’m going to be ordering a DW660 from amazon and figured I would order some end mills at the same time, can anyone recommend any of the assorted kits on amazon or provide a recommendation on what bits I should be looking to buy? I was considering picking this up:
Since I’m jumping into this with limited knowledge, I’m not sure what I should be looking for to get started with.
In other news, “Hot Wheels” has officially entered the assembly phase, with only another 20 hours of print time left for the remaining parts!
That amazon end mill set won’t really do you any good, because the 660 can only accept up to a 1/8" bit.
This might be a better choice. I can’t vouch for the quality, but they would definitely work in foam and most likely any wood materials and if you break a few, its no great loss.
And as far as types of bits, straight end, ball nose and v-bit are the most common to get started with. Straight bits are common for thru-cutting parts from a sheets, pocket cutting and roughing passes for contour milling. Ball nose are common for finishing passes (or roughing) in contour milling. V-bits are often used in engraving, text in wood, metal as well as PCB milling.
As for CAD/CAM I like Fusion 360. There is a bit of a learning curve, but it is a quite robust platform and improving all the time. Below are some resources I have used along the way.
Thanks, I’m going to blame my lack of coffee this morning for not paying attention to that. It looks like maybe there aren’t any assorted kits that make a lot of sense.
I’m guessing I should get at least an 1/8" 2 flute and 4 flute carbide flat bit? and maybe the same in 1/16"?
Should i bother with a v-nose or ball end bit initially?
Also, thanks for the resource suggestions, I will definitely check them out!
The speed of the 660 is really to fast to use a 4 flute. Ryan is working on a speed controller for it though, and some use a generic router speed controller as well. Without speed control single or double flutes seem to be the norm for that router. Also, I think you would need a new collet to use the 1/16" bits.
I actually don’t use that one though, I use the Makita RT0701C and converted it to use the ER11 collet system. It has built in manual speed control 10K-30K RPM.
I bought one of each type of bit from a local tooling shop when I started, but I have yet to use the ball end mill. I guess it all just depends on what you are planning on doing with it.
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The speed of the 660 is really to fast to use a 4 flute. Ryan is working on a speed controller for it though, and some use a generic router speed controller as well. Without speed control single or double flutes seem to be the norm for that router. Also, I think you would need a new collet to use the 1/16″ bits.
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Awesome. I just checked and it looks like the DW660 comes with both a 1/4" and 1/8" collet, so I will focus my efforts there. I was considering ordering a speed controller eventually, they look relatively simple to integrate.
Looks like I can keep it simple and order a few bits to get started with. Thanks again for all the info.
If you are very new to this I highly recommend not messing with anything except a single flute upcut but. Start there, adding bit comes when you learn why you might use a different bit.
Make cuts, get them as clean as possible. This bit is for cutting parts out and making pockets.
Or…If cutting out parts is not your thing and you are more into the sign side of things start with a Vbit. This bit is for carving and sharper corners.
One or the other, trying to learn both might be difficult at first.
It’s funny you mention that. I was hoping to eventually make a nice House # / Name sign for the front of the house as proof to my wife that I haven’t just been drinking beer in the basement this whole time.
Thanks, I just ordered 2 of each from the shop. I’ll start out with the V bit as you suggest, but figured I’d rather place the order for both types now.
I notice the product desription for it says, “Electronic speed control maintains constant speed under load.” Is it, then, as good as the PID that has been discussed lately? I mean, the entire router with that included costs less than a Super PID just by itself.
Did you have to make a special adapter for it, or does the RT0701C fit the standard MPCNC parts?
I don’t see why it wouldn’t. It’s the same size as the Dewalt. The issue I see with it, sure it keeps constant speed, but what’s the speed? Numbers 1 through 9 don’t really mean anything.
I own some other Makita gear, like some saws and a planar, and–though I haven’t measured them with instruments–I do get the subjective impression that Makita’s constant speed control does work on them. So, maybe there’s hope that the Makita trim router performs like it should too, even if the Dewalt doesn’t. Anyhow, since Mike already owns one, it seems like it’s worth asking.
I believe it does a reasonable job of maintaining its set speed. It did not bog down when I accidentally cut through the head of a steel hold down screw when I was cutting acrylic. Also, it does not sound any different when it changes from pocket cutting using only a portion of the bit, to slot cutting where it is using 180° of the bit.
I found the attached table regarding speed settings. I went out and tested it (no-load) and the numbers were very close for each setting. Also, the dial is “infinitely” variable, so it doesn’t just step from one speed to the next, it gradually increases/decreases as you move the dial.
I was under the impression that the PID would allow you to control the speed via software. The Makita can only be controlled manually (although I do remember reading somewhere that a guy was controlling it with gcode, but there seemed to be a lot of extra hardware involved).
I use the following mount for it, but am going to modify it to allow for more surface area of the aluminum body to be open to the air for cooling, sometimes it gets quite warm.
I spoke to soon. It does work. Very noticeable when I used it by hand and leaned into it. I can’t tell if a PID on this would be worth the effort. The PID should compensate faster and give exact control but on the 611 not a huge difference other than that.
