Here’s my experience- I’ve had good success with glass bed and hairspray for ABS, PLA, and PETG.
There’s a specific brand that has worked better for me- I’ll get a picture and upload that.
ABS- 100C bed temp. Pops off when cooled.
PETG- 54C bed temp. Pops off when cooled
PLA- 50C bed temp. Pops off or needs to be cooled a bit.
I’ve had this result on glass beds with my Lulzbots (Had AO100s and the Taz 5), my Qidi tech x1, my FlashForge creator pro, and on my Solidoodle workbench.
On the Workbench, I actually replaced the glass bed with a home depot 12x12 mirror tile and hold it on with swiss clips. Works great.
I’ve had success printing flexible filaments on an aluminum plate with Kapton on it. Have to wipe that down really well so there’s no residues before starting a print.
The buildtack surface worked OK for me on the Qidi and FlashForge, but tended to peel up and leave me grumpy. That caused me to yank the surface off and substitute borosilicate glass.
I have used PEI on TAZ family printers and that worked really well- but I’ve had several instances where ABS stuck so hard that I damaged the build plate trying to get it removed.
I’ve also used blue painters tape for PLA on unheated beds. Key there is a thick and slow first layer and getting a really good bed level and first layer nozzle height.
I’ve also had success printing ABS on top of a NinjaFlex raft (on top of Kapton tape, on top of an aluminum plate). Seems silly, but avoided curling on one really tough print that spanned a full bed on the FlashForge