Having a hole in the front that support a 3D printed part to hold the screen will make upgrades or changes to the screen a lot easier in the future. Good idea.
Putting it out in front so you can get to the jacks is another great idea. But with a mount, you have either option.
That is the foam test cut, to make sure itāll fit. The actual panel will allow for reaching the USB port and SD card slot. That said, if I can transfer wireless, itās almost 100% that Iāll do it that way. Once I had the wireless.set up on the Primo and my current printer, I never popped the SD card out.of them again, I do all the file management over wifi.
Iām kind of treating the whole front panel as a mount. It could be 3D printed, but I can mill a whole new part, and mount it in place in less time (now) than I could print it.
I had intended to have a mount for the V1 printed case, but the case doesnāt have the opening for the wireless antenna. It can go on the LCD or main board, so I could just use the main board mount, but the LCD is where I tested it.
Side shot shows access to the SD and USB ports. The wifi module installed too.
The sheer size of this thing is still surprising to me. I mean I knew it was gonna be big, but itās 600mm tall.
So this morning I called Canada Post about my CF tube, which had been āout for deliveryā since Sep 15. I was told "The delivery agent said āNo access to buildingā
Nice. So they didnāt call (They have my phone number and email address on the customs declaration) didnāt notify me and the tracking information still said āout for deliveryā (With a ādelayedā notice) so no way to know before calling.
I remained polite, but basically said that the person was an idiot. I live in a single dwelling so there was no need for āaccess to buildingā unless they tried the wrong address entirely. I verified the address it was being sent toā¦ And lo and behold, it was in my mail box 3 hours later. So now I have it.
Itās 500mm in length, so I need to cut it down. (460.2mm if memory serves is 120mm longer than the model originally had for a 200mm build plate.)
Did I say that this printer is going to be behemoth? 100mm extra doesnāt sound like much, but it really kind of is. There have been times where the āstandardā 200mm build plate has been a restricting factor when I want to 3D print stuff, so I thought that being able to go bigger to 300mm would be really nice, so thatās what I wanted to try with this. If it were an option, Iād have liked to be able to get just a little over the 12" mark, so Iām about 5mm short. (Well, the plate itself is 310mm, so I might actually be able to do 304.8mm if I give a little credit for the heat spreader, and am very careful with centering my prints.)
So now Iām waiting for my longer 3mm screws, then itās time to start mucking about with parts, and seeing if I can determine a reasonable order of assembly operations. (Iām usually pretty good with this, but I may have a few questions for @vicious1 once I get my parts cut.
Yeah it will be bigā¦but compared to a comparable bed slinger it is actually smaller.
Order of operations is very forgiving on this one. The only gotcha is the CF tube and the trucks, You can do it is several ways but the key is to screw the 3 screws to the bearing block and leave the 4th a bit loose to let you tension it (and twist the rail if needed). The proper way is probably assembled it out of the machine and then bolt the whole thing in by the rails, but I have done it several ways. Heck if you didnāt use the 4th screw it would be simple. I donāt think it is needed.
What do you think of the endstop belt triggers?
Yeah, the footprint isnāt much different from my current bed flinger, but itās quite a bit taller. (Like, say 4" of build height)
Nice use of materials and guaranteed opacity. Something that you wonāt mind tossing if itās cut wrong, all good! I havenāt put them together, but the concept works for me.
Iām probably going to want to put together a āstockā size of this printer at some point. One more kid who wants one.
Option 1. Make near identical MP3DPv2 to prevent sibling rivalry from breaking to near war.
Option 2. Make v3, and watch the fireworks.
Option 3. Make 2 v3s and youngest gets an upgrade.
Well, letās face it. Option 2.5. Make v3 and accept that Iāll need another identical one soon after.
Loosen all the wheel axle screws to make sure they are seated as far open as possible. Mine easily falls off with no tension.
I only tightened the 30mm screws so that the threads fully engaged the nut. I tried prying the openings and a couple of them had the screw threads pop. Itās a little looser now, but still wonāt fall of by itself.
I think itās OK though, it takes very little force to move, and the movement is smooth. I figure that it will āwear inā after a little use, and then need some tightening after. I think itās within the range of my printer accuracy. Mine really doesnāt like overhangs, even 45Ā° is sometimes more than it will handle gracefully.
On the hub, there are 3 nut traps that have the flat surfaces horizontal. My printer had some sagging bridging this. I fixed it applying heat to a regular 5mm nut and pressing I into the opening with the sag upside down, then pulling the nut out. It seems an unusual design choice for your parts (you seem to normally make sure that the points for the nut traps is vertical.) I figure that the internal tolerances are pretty tight for this part. Iāve never rigged up a working part fan, so bridging has always been less than good. Itās one of those things I meant to get to. (I have the wiring in place, just no fan.)
???
That doesnāt sound right, did you print it with the left side down?
edit- your layer lines look correct. Odd. I guess I have made some of the overhang gaps larger than I usually do. Sorry dude.
Or put it in a common area with octoprint and make them share? Or do I only think that because my kids are small still?
Not a big deal, but if you look, for the 6 axle screws, 3 of them have the flats vertical, and 3 have them horizontal. Pretty sure thereās only one reasonable orientation to print that piece.
The span for an 8mm nut isnāt out of the question, but my printer is weak thst way. One of the things the new one should remedy, or at least give me some time to address. (I meant to do so with the V2, but that didnāt end up happening.)
I also need to address print quality issues, mine has developed āX wobbleā from the leadscrew drive. You can see it in the hub print. Itās small but visible.
Yeah, not happening. Ages 17 (on the spectrum) and 20 and wants to print stuff that will take 16+ hours. Neither one shares well, and I can only imagine what the arguments would be like if one of them uses up a spool loaded in the printer the other wanted to use. NOPE. Gonna be easier to have more printers.
I will paint this panel at some point, but not too concerned about it yet. Iāll wait for the rest of it to come together.
Off to Home Despot now for more materials.
That looks huge. Go big or go home.
Yes.
Well, a lot of back and forth on this, because Iām using this as a build to debug the LR2, and I apparently have a lot of bugs in the LR2 to work out.
I think at this point, I have all of the parts. I need either another sheet of 12mm MDF, or another sheet of 12mm plywood. I think the plywood would be nicer, but the dimensional stability of MDFā¦ And the weight. Ugh, this is going to be HEAVY in MDF.
Maybe some openings in the sides would be a good idea. At least handles or something to help carry it for the (hopefully very few) times I might need to move it. It might reduce the heat insulation capabilities, but certainly not as much as an open extrusion frame.
Made another piece of junk. The diagonals are out by over 1cm. The mount holes for stuff are as close to dead square to each other as I can measure, but something slipped on the first pass cutting the outline, and then it was all garbage.
I think it was the X axis that slipped. Iāve been having trouble with the one motor plug, but then it should have remained square, so itās possible that the Y2 motor slipped, which skewed the cut.
Looks like I need to attend to the wiring, I have JST XC connectors for thr SKR, have just been using the Dupont connectors until I got to cleaning up the wiring. Looks like Iāll have to do that.
Iām a bit worried. I got some skipping in X before, and bumped up the current for the X motor to 1100mA, which seemed to deal with it. Maybe I need a bit more, though I donāt think that I should. Maybe my X bearings are a little too tight? It still seems to slide smoothly though.
Iām about this close to just cutting on the Primo. Just innate stubbornness keeping me in this track, but frustrating when I have a solution I know works.
If the drivers get too hot, they will either turn off, or they will reduce the current themselves. Counterintuitively, more current can cause them to slip too much.
Also, the motors can get very hot. They will make the motor mounts soft. The rule of thumb is 50C motors seems to be a good upper limit.
Thatās a bummer about the cut though.
Another odd one that can pop up is static from the vacuum, I think that usually resets the control board, though.
Any chance your rapids are too fast (on the LR I have my rapids pretty slow 20-25 I think), or cutting a little too heavy or dull bit? The pealing on your cut is not looking like mine do. MDF is the hardest thing to cut other than metal ( I would be at 1/8" single flute, ~4mm DOC, 10mm/s). I baby the LR compared to the MPCNC (1/4" 12mm DOC 25mm/s).
Dare I mention pulleys?
