I finally stumbled upon the SKR Pro V1.1/1.2 documentation (and actually have one on order), but I’m also curious to see if I can get this up and running on my 1.3 in the near term. I’ve seen several people here confirm they’re running it, but it seems to be limited to a group that has a fair understanding of building the Marlin firmware version and previous experience with SKR boards.
On my 1.3 board (based from what I’ve read on the SKR Pro guide, my understanding is that I need to move the red jumpers from their stock/factory position over to the UART jumper spaces (hastily noted in green in the image) and then also remove all of the jumpers under the driver headers - noted with the red slash - (using 2209s in my case). Is this correct?
My assumption is that if I’m running the SKR 1.3 with 2209s and want dual endstops that the file labeled: V1CNC_Skr1p3_Dual_2209-2.0.6-src.zip should work from an easy button standpoint of extract it, rename it FIRMWARE.bin and then toss it on the microSD, correct? I’m using the spec 84oz/in steppers, so I’m assuming the only thing left to do beyond that would be to verify that the steppers are wired/moving correctly and then add in the end stops and touch plate wiring? Thanks!
Edit to add: Also - I believe I’ll need to cut/bend that sensorless homing pin as well for each 2209 driver as called out in the SKR Pro guide?
Yes. That all seems right. The 1p3 confusions have zero testing. So it would be great if you find anything to let me know and I can fix it in future versions.
I am not 100% sure on the Bending pins the sensorless homing pins with this board. I’d have to look at the schematic.
Edit. It wouldn’t hurt to bend or clip them, except for the obvious pain to the sensorless homing feature.
Thanks! I’ll definitely provide some feedback once I get this up and running.
I’ve never had to bend those pins before (using SKR 1.3 and 2209s on Voron), but I was using Klipper as the firmware so I’m not sure how that would affect things. I’m not a fan of sensorless homing, so I don’t anticipate ever needing that function - I’m satisfied with using microswitch endstops. That being said, even if I was out 5x 2209s that I had to re-purchase in the future it wouldn’t be the end of the world (I’ve certainly broken bigger $ things in my DIY foray, haha).
You may not need to bend the pins.I have that board and TMC 2208 UART drivers and didn’t bend any pins at all. Can’t comment on TMC 2209 drivers.
The rest of the it about removing pins is right though.
Building the Marlin firmware is pretty easy. Visual Studio Code works well and is easy to install. I plug my board straight into the USB on my Mac and program from there. Don’t bother with SD cards. You may find it useful to get it working as you can configure it more to your usage than relying on prebuilt images. YMMV.
Appreciate all of the tips. I’ll hold off on bending pins for now with that exact board/driver combo.
In other news - I’ve been talking to a few of the guys in the Voron community and it looks like we may have a solid workaround to use Klipper with the SKR 1.3 and 2209s. From what I’ve seen, the only issue is that you have to tweak the homing macro to assign a dynamic home before it actually homes and reassigns the home position (or similar). I should have the config within the next couple of days and if it looks like it is working, I’ll go ahead and draft up some documentation and hang it here. In theory, we should be able to then control the config in near-realtime using V1Pi and the OctoKlipper plugin. For those not familiar, this will allow you to adjust the printer config profile via an OctoPrint plugin and simply restart the service vice re-flashing the board.
If you’re using only octoprint, I suggest using octopi instead. It has a few less compromises and gets more frequent updates. Unless you need a hotspot.
Sorry - I meant the OctoKlipper plugin on OctoPi. And for this application, based on my understanding, will be available as part of the V1Pi image, correct?
It is. My point was that if the octopi image works for your needs, then don’t use my v1pi. It is really for cncjs and the hotspot. If you don’t need those, then you’ll have better luck with the octopi.
I have the 1.3 with the 2209’s. I had to bend the pins on the xmin &y min drivers to use the dual endstops. I didn’t trust the sensorless homing. I can take a picture of my board set up if you still need it.
That may be worth looking at if you don’t mind. One guy I’ve spoken to has his working with sensorless homing/no bends, and another guy said he has is working with dual endstops but said there’s jumpers that have to be placed between the signal and diag pins between the drivers and board. It sounds like he may have found some jumper solution to pin bending. Again, I’m just collecting and passing info back and forth right now. Unfortunately I don’t know enough about the board circuits/hardware to be able to explain what and why.
