Has anyone put a list of hardware difference between mpcnc and the lowrider? Thought id ask before going through the hassle
Figure you can save the control board, steppers, and endstops. Everything else is new except maybe the router.
What you can salvage will depend on whether you have a Burly or a Primo. A quick scan of the parts list yield the following additional items beyond Michael’s list:
- Power supply
- Wiring (maybe depending on length)
- T8 leadscrew and nut (1 of 2 needed and if long enough)
- Coupler (1 of 2 needed)
- 5/16 lock nuts (3 more needed if Burly)
- 608-2rs bearings
- Pulley 16t 10mm
- Idler 20t g2 10mm
- 6-32 lock nuts
Thanks @robertbu, I just got done comparing the parts list . I was hoping more of the nuts and bolts would transfer over. But those are the lower cost items anyway, I think.
and I am coming from the Burly.
So I came up with about the same list. and checked prices compared between amazon and the V1 store. cheaper to buy from the store including the shipping. At least that is what I am finding so far.
nuts and bolts will get from the local hardware store.
Thanks for the help.
I wouldn’t try and reuse the bearings. They are a bear to replace if they fail and probably worth sourcing new if they are caked with sawdust like mine, same with the wiring. Robert is dead on with the rest though.
You may do better selling the MPCNC as a whole if its in good shape and rebuying the parts. The going rate for assembled MPCNC’s may cover the parts for the new lowrider.
@Mcunn thanks for the advice. I have not used my MPCNC enough for dust to get caked on and other than a small amount, I have not cut wood. I use it for carving foam RC planes (photos of my latest project coming soon). So I feel the bearings should be good.
So here is what I am ultimately wanting to.
Currently I have the MPCNC set up for a 20" x 50" cut area with a 10" z axis.
The X axis side rails are supported for strength, but as you know the moving X rail is not. I think this is were I’m getting too much play in it as it can flex.
The 10" Z axis also makes it difficult if I do ever want to cut wood and requires a platform.
So I’m thinking about converting to the Lowrider. the problem…Cost. There is no way I can purchase the SS tubbing. So I’m going to do the unthinkable…use 3/4 EMT! I know it is recommended not to.
But here is my thinking. If the single moving Y rail is good and stiff, then two moving Y rails will just be better. I laid out the LR in CAD and the rails only need to be 1" longer.
I also rebuilt all of the printed parts to fit the 3/4 EMT using the bearings spacing from the MPCNC
Everything in cyan needed to be rebuilt for 3/4
I also rebuilt the tool mount for the DW660 so it is stable.
Two mounting points on the wood base
and a cross bar with a mounting point on the back.
I also recut the base so the tool mount would align with the bottom surface of the wood.
Is this completely ridiculous or is there any validity to my thinking?
What am I missing that this would not work?
Nice job on the cad layout!
I have no idea on the 3/4 tubing I’m sure there will be some sag but not sure how much. You might get away with it but it’s a lot of work if it doesn’t.
Ryan is pretty good at value engineering his creations and would have gone with emt if he could. I did see a post a while brack about using closet rods for tubes. Since you have the cad skills that might be an option as well.
If you shop local for the as tubes they aren’t bad I paid 75 for mine for a full size lowrider at Metal Supermarket.
I had thought about Ryan having a reason for not using 3/4, but my guess is that he had in mind being able to cut a full sheet of 4x8, which I would certainly see why the 1" ss is necessary.
With mine only being a 20" cut width (32" rails) I feel I should be fine.
I’ll look around a bit more for SS, but I’m not aware of any place - if anyone is in the West Michigan area an knows a good place let me know.
On the forum I’ve seen some cheaper prices paid for DOM tubing relative to SS, so you might want to look for that as well.
@robertbu that is another possibility, but I’m not cutting on a regular basis and I’m a bit afraid of it rusting.
Does dom tubing rust quickly and is it easy to clean up if needed?
I don’t have DOM tumbing on my rig, so I don’t know for sure, but the advice on the forum is to use a non-silicone past wax on the tubing to prevent rust. I’ve not read of anyone on the forum having rusing problems.
Prices I find on the internet vary for DOM tubing. For your size of machine, you will need about 12’ of 1" DOM tubing. A quick search turned up Midwest Steel and Aluminum with a cost of $41 for 12’ of DOM tubing. The online store MetalsDepot has 12’ for $36. There will be shipping on top of this of cource, but if you live in a town or city of any size, it is possible you can find tubing at around this price locally. And while I’ve not seen anyone on the forum use it, welded steel tubing (not SS) is even cheaper than DOM, and given your size of machine, should be fine.
The maker in me wants to see you make your conduit version. But based on reading the forum, I suspect that a majority of peple who try to do their own thing end up not completing the machine or having a poorly performing machine, and I like people having well running machines and can share the excitement that I had when I completed my first build.
Mine hasn’t rusted in the ~2 years I’ve had it. I haven’t cleaned it and I live in Colorado, which is generally pretty dry. I leave a layer of fine sawdust on it all the time to soak up any extra moisture
@jeffeb3 Good to know. You don’t wax it or anything?
@robertbu didn’t think of the waxing. I use johnson paste wax on my table saw and band saw tables so I’m familiar with that.
We do have a couple steel supply places in town. I will check into that.
Another thought would be to use the EMT For the Z axis, 4 of those should be stable enough. then use the DOM for the Y axis. Although at that point just purchasing enough DOM for the Z is probably not much more.
Same here. I suppose regardless of which direction I do the hardware stays the same. The risk is in the printed parts. and if the 3/4 EMT does not work then needing to reprint and purchase DOM/SS. I kinda feel like taking the risk though…
I’ll check into the DOM first and see what kind of prices I can get locally. then decide.
Unless there is a smart engineer out there that can give me confidence that the EM T will work for the lengths I am wanting. (32" y axis)
Give me a week and I will update with what I will end up doing.
No. It is pretty black from whatever it came with. Pretty dirty too.
first things first - some photos of the RC plane ready to paint.
cut from green foam from Lowes.
the black parts are 3D printed “brackets” so I can screw them down and replace them as needed. they are held in by 3D printed screw bosses that are epoxied into the foam. Each screw boss can handle about 20lbs of pull force before they release from the foam.
52" wing span
1.8lbs. without the electronics.
It will be 2.5lbs with battery and electronics
there are wood spars inside the wing - the only wood I have cut on the MPCNC.
back to the Lowrider.
so I was looking at my MPCNC set up this weekend.
as mentioned I have 32" y axis emt. pressing on it barely deflects it. so I am feeling a bit more confident using two 3/4" emt rails.
so I think I am going to build the gantry part and see just how much deflection there is - and by “seeing” I mean pressing on it, no technical gadgetry to measure actual deflection
I will still call this week on DOM just to see what it is, but I’m feeling pretty good about the emt.
what infill on the printed parts did you all use? the website says 30-55%
What endmill do you use for milling the 611 plate?
I have an 1/8 flat endmill I got from the V1 store. I’m wondering if I need something smaller to machine the 4mm dia. holes.
At least I am not able to get a toolpath to generate in fusion and am thinking that is the reason.