My DRV8825 Drivers :
Now i have 0,9V set on all my drivers.
Calculs for Vref :
Motors : 1,68A X 2,8 V = 4,7W
So for 12v : 4,7W / 12V = 0,39A
Vref = stepper current 0,39 / 2 = 0,19
So normally i need tu put 0,38 volt for the X and Y stepper and 0,19V for the Z ?
But actually, with 9v at all my stepper, my cnc is really not powerfuul
You can speed that up a lot with a 1/8" bit. If you’re not worried about tearout on the upper side, then go with a 1 flute upcut bit. If you have to have the top side pretty, then consider a downcut 1/8" dual flute. The problem with the downcut is that you can’t drill well. Don’t drill more than about 2mm deep with a downcut unless the hole is at least 2x the bit size so the chips can escape. I have hacked around this by making the doors with the bit and finishing then with the drill press. Also buy the bits from the vicious1 shop or find similar quality bits made for milling not drills or cheap router bits.
You can definitely push the machine around with your hands. I’m not sure how hard you’re pushing, but it looks like it’s probably skipping steps too easily. But it’s hard to know. Some fingers are pretty tough.
I just reread your first post. Sorry I missed this, there’s some math that conflicts with my understanding, but you have DRV8825s set to 0.9V, but you’re running in parallel. That is going to be a bit soft. If you run them in series, you can go up to 0.7V or in parallel, up to 1.4V. Where your math above went wrong is that the drivers won’t use 12V, they will use up to 12V, but be limited by the current. You can think of them as current sources, not voltage sources.
0.7V = 1.4A (for the Z), which won’t be 12V.
1.4V = 2.8A (or 1.4A for each motor).
You should also consider switching to the serial wiring configuration. It will run the drivers at a lower current. In that case, you’d set them to 0.7V ref.
There still seems something fishy though. Running a 1/8" bit ploughing through wood will be less resistance (not quite half, but close) than a 1/4" bit. If you’re just cutting out parts, then the 1/8" is a good size (1/16" would be less resistance, but more likely to break or heat up). The 1/8" bit needs to spin faster too, since it’s radius is 1/2. Maybe that’s the issue?
It looks like your X axis steppers are not holding very well as Jeff suggests. How does the Y axis hold up? If it’s much better than the X axis I would double check the voltages and then perhaps try swapping over the X and Y drivers.
Thanks a lot for your help. I have already switched the driver. I think its because of the orientation of wood fibers.
I put my X and Y driver to 1,4V and use a 1/8″ bit (i have an active cooling for the driver).
Your Gcode is not going to work, the firmware changed a year so so back and it will not work without Z rapid speeds in there now, you will need to use estlcam 10. I know it seems not to be the case but it crashes the machine randomly becuase it is when the bad command gets loaded, not executed. For some reason it is typically not ever in the same spot, it took us more than a year to figure it out but now that we have it is very is to verify that is the issue.
I really hope to see your new project, lets get you working again!
I am also with Heffe on this one 1/8" should be much faster. Almost twice as fast.
Heffe has caught all of this already, but we also we have switched to wiring in series, twice as strong less power needed from the Drivers. You have had your machine for a while, I forgot. I wish I had kept a better change log…
Thank you Ryan, Yeah, a changelog can be very helpful, i have searched a lot on the forum, i re-do all the steps of your tutorial but i have not seen this informations ! Thanks a lot for your help !
The thinking here is, deeper will use more of the bits surface, so you save some money. Plus, there’s less chance for any higher order dynamics, or ringing in the rig. Plus, of you go off course, you’ll be less likely to break everything. The disadvantage to deeper is chip evacuation. Test everything first, but deeper is generally better. I might even show it down to 8mm/s.
Nope. If there were no accelerations, it should be perfect. The acceleration looks should slow it down, not speed it up. Unless it’s assuming some acceleration. The other possibility is that the firmware doesn’t treat cached speeds exactly the way it should, so the speeds you are using are way faster than you want.
Awesome project(or)! I made a projector from lumen labs way back seems kinda similar. Yours has some serious throw on it though, find a plug instant art! As always classy work, I love it.
