Although I don’t suppose this is actually advice, I thought I’d throw up a couple of pics.
I ran the same file twice, just flipped the board over. Only difference was using a Chinese 500W spindle on one, and the Dewalt 660 on the other. The material is particle board with a (I think) melamine surface. The 500W spindle seems to have more vibration than the Dewalt. The surface finish as well as in general, looks better with the Dewalt.
I think if I can get a speed controller on this Dewalt, I’ll be in good shape.
I always appreciate when someone posts comparisons on this forum. Most people just build one machine, so it is hard to get accurate assessments. You can edit your topic and past or upload your images directly into the topic. Right now, your links don’t work.
Your assessment between the two matches the few other spindle comparison topics I’ve seen.
I had a DW660 with an external speed controller on my Burly. It worked fine, though there is no feedback loop. On the better routers with internal speed controls, the router varies its power to maintain the set RPM. That won’t happen with an standard external controller, so he RPM will vary somewhat based on the load.
Sorry about that folks… Apparently I suffered from a cranial rectal impact last night (Had my head up my butt!) and couldn’t for the life of me find the ‘upload’ button.
I’m debating about which avenue to go regarding spindle/router. I’m currently not using the MPCNC for anything business related, so am having a serious debate with myself when it comes to shelling out the money and effort required for a water cooled spindle/VFD setup. I’m in the process of reading through the PID controller thread. Seems like a really good (and cost efficient) way to go.
I’d posted a couple of years ago when I first got the 52mm spindle that I’d gotten lucky with mine as it had no measurable runout. I need to put an indicator on it again and see if it does now. I haven’t used it much, but ya get what ya pay for.
My only real issue with the DeWalt 660 is how loud it is. In my case, it is a solely personal problem, as my shop is detached from the house and well insulated. A PID speed control would most likely check all the boxes for me.
I did a comparison back during the Salamander incident. The dc motor spindles have waaay too much stick out with the collet holder. There are some unicorns out there that actually have hollow shafts with built in collet holders. I would expect them to work much better. I went back to the DeWalt because it does work better, but I did have pretty good luck with the Chinese spindle, just have to really dial in the feeds and speeds.
Ryan, I see the parts are still in the store for the PID controller… what’s the current status of that project? I read through about 100 posts last night, but haven’t had the chance to sit down and go through the rest yet…
I’ve read through the entire thing a couple times. I picked up the parts a while back and everything seems easy enough to follow. Several guys have it working and one even wrote some extra code to include manual speed selection. I failed to get mine working and decided it was time to shelve it for a while. About time for me to try again.
I have mine running but can not sell the boards anymore so you have to make your own with, or buy a batch. I still have some of the components.
In the end swapping for a makita is probably the best bet if you can trade, sell or return the 660 if you really want more control than just using a cheap speed controller, and the speed control works really well.
It all depends on why you want speed control. For regular cutting dialing it in by ear is really nice, when you use a PID controller doing it by code is not as easy, and mine does not currently let you do it on the fly it needs gcode.
Well, Amazon has the Makita RT0701C (Tool only) for about $80.
We don’t need any kind of base for the router, so that saves a good chunk of change there. Speed range of 10K to 30K is more than enough. I’ve done wood and a couple of aluminum pieces… Doubt I’ll get into steel or anything on the outer limits like that. Seems like the Makita is the best all around option.
I’ve got an optical tach, and can just use a silver sharpie on one flat of the collet to obtain RPM readings. Overall, I think this would be plenty good enough.
I am staggered at how little you blokes have to pay for stuff - I paid $290 AUD for mine (about $185 US) So the “Living in Australia Tax” is a mere 140%!! You really don’t want to know what the rest of my build cost compared to US prices!
I’ve got the PWM solution from the V1 shop up and running on my Burly using a CNC Shield controller.
With a DPDT switch in the line between the nano board and the AC controller, plus a 5K linear potentiometer, you can have a toggle between manual and CNC speed control but M3/M5 will still turn the router on and off. And, with the LCD screen included on the PWM project from the shop, you can see the RPM when using either speed control method.
I haven’t done as much CNC cutting as I’d like, but I would use the “dial it in by ear” method in manual/potentiometer mode for some simple test cuts in new materials, then use what I learned there to program the RPM for more complex jobs.
Good info Tom, thanks.
I haven’t completely written off the PWM/PID setup… but at the moment, I really don’t need any new projects… It’s taken me decades to actually learn to say that!!
Ugh, wish I’d read this 3 weeks ago when I bought the 660. Oh well, I’m sure it’ll be fine. I was pretty happy with my harbor freight router on the old Burly, so I’m sure a 660 on the Primo is going to be great.
Yeah, I know a lot of people use it and are happy with it, I just didn’t realize there was a better budget option. I’d actually considered a more expensive spindle, but I got a deal on the 660 and that was that.
It’ll almost certainly be more than I need.
Though, I tried to use it the other day as an actual router and hated it. That little bracket on the end is hot garbage. It’s obviously a much better CNC router than a hand router.
I was pretty happy with my harbor freight router on the old Burly, so I’m sure a 660 on the Primo is going to be great.