Some people just have to take the hard road… everytime.
I know, I know don’t buy junk belt. But it was so cheap! I got 10 meters for 4 bucks or something??? AliExpress before prices went up. I really tried to make the lowrider on the cheap! But what I found out is most of the junk I bought ended up getting thrown in a drawer to never to be used again or thrown away because it broke. You have no idea how many times I smacked myself saying, why didn’t I just buy the LR V1kit and get the right parts first!
Look how awesome that belt looks!
I had no idea the belt had done that. I was thinking, well odd a foot down it was cutting pretty well but when it got towards the end the cut looked not so great. However, I have been having every problem under the sun! I snapped off the y axis 3d printed part and printed new ones. I talk about it in another post somewhere on here… Z Axis Problems
I bought junk wires, I made junk wires (it’s so easy to make junk wires), i bought conduit (don’t do this! it wont fit!! Which the drawings and BOM tells you to not use conduit but I did it anyway because it was cheap and available. Where Stainless 1" pipe is $400+130 shipping!!! Until later i found out you can use DOM pipe which is affordable from Amazon.) Don’t enlarge the prints to make it fit Conduit. LOL it causes so many problems!!! Couplings… (post Z Zeros at 200mm) I have turned everyone of my couplings into slinkies. Good thing i bought them from Ali because i got them in a 10 pack. Now i have 10 slinkies, so much fun to be had. I later bought these solid couplings. Oh I love them so.
I also like my printed end caps. let me tell you, DOM steel is super sharp. I need a debur tool to fix it but now with the printed end caps who cares! it works so well. Talking about DOM pipe, it has waves in it… or maybe my super cheap 200 pack for $20 bearings are not concentric. not sure. All i know is my x axis doesn’t smoothly glade over the DOM instead its fast, slow, fast, slow. about every 8" or so. Not sure if Stainless does that?
Don’t buy those junk red endstops. I already had about 6 of them from a 3d printer that I made. I also used the Nema 17 42 ozin motors from that printer on the lowrider from 2007ish? (original Prusa 1, Oh that’s right the wedge!) They just skipped work every time I asked them to do a job.
Also, on a post i talk about the many Ali logic Boards i bought… oh my! Good thing is that i bought one of them that V1 uses. I just needed the TMC2209 drivers. Becauses the thing I don’t want to do ever again is make my own firmware. Talk about breaking my spirit.
It’s time to get serious and stop wasting all this time i don’t have! I bought V1 belt! I would buy other things from V1 but I pretty much have all the good parts now. So it’s not a good idea to buy a kit at this point. Should have done that at the beginning of all this non-since. I got the Iwiss iws-2820m crimper that really works!!! I have to crimp like 4 times to get it to work but it works every time. I am trying to make wires that work! I have 20 awg black/red for my endstops. I am using the same endstops V1 uses.
I do not understand why the LR has only one Z max endstop and not two? Instead the last endstop is X max. What does X max do for you other than find the full X limits? Two Z max would make sure the gantry is level. or am i missing something?
Color coded (xblue,yblack,zyellow) and I own the V1 tool touch plate! The SS touch plate is not long enough. The x carriage about crushes my fingers when i am touching off the tool and it’s impossible to get the clamp back off unless i raise the z at least 60mm or more. Maybe the clamp is not supposed to go on the tool? I don’t know? I will also put a new connecter on the touch plate wire as the black molex connector just fall off the board. That’s why I used 3 pin JST connectors with the top wire missing.
I am using the V1 power supply. I didn’t know where to put that massive brick of a normal 3d printer power supply without it becoming dust filled. This connector part has saved my cookies like a million times! I am so glad i didn’t cut off the wire and wire it directly! When the 200mm, hey lets plunge the gantry into the table, lift the y axis off the table and snap the bit into tiny fragments happens. I can solve this by unplugging it here!!! YAY
I am almost done with my Motor wires. I am keeping the motor wire as is. but i am pulling off the molex connectors for a JST SM plug. If I need to replace the motors for whatever reason or move them around. It will be easy to do. All motors are wired exactly the same! The extinction cables I made are not wired the same. The two yellow Z axis are flipped. This is because I want the gantry at the front of the table vs back. I want to be able to replace bits without having to walk around to the hardest to get to place on my table.
All that is left is to put the new belts on and put it back together. Oh and make it run well.
This has been a frustrating but super fun and most of all the learning curve was steep but totally worth it. But I could have made this table for way less money if I bought V1 at the beginning. well other than that darn SS pipe!
You guys have helped me so much, thank you!!!