You should start with my beta firmware and just change the steps per mm. I think the accelerations and speeds will hold up. At 16th steps you can rapid faster but I don’t recommend it.
Unfortunally this driver dont go at 32th steps… i need to buy other to increase steps…
Where i can found the beta firmware ?
However right now i’m happy to has done the first part, later maybe i will have better results 
16th steps are fine. I use the other drivers for different reasons.
ok, you did found another tester
I will change the parameters for my belt/threaded and i let you know!
Uploaded th firmware and modified some axis direction (just because i have pinned differently my motors).
I’ve changed steps as (like prusa calculator says http://prusaprinters.org/calculator/):
DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {80.0, 80.0, 2560.0, 90.0} // Belt T2.5 with 16th
I’m not more confident about the third parameter, i’m trying to up Z axis to 10mm but i think him go up to 8.
However, the script go well (as you said, with the first script i notice a very hard break about the motors).
Now i will try to mill with a Dremel 3mm drill.
Francisco,
For your 8mm/1.25pitch threaded rod your firmware should have:
Z Microsteps/mm = (16Microsteps/Step)(200 Steps/Revolution)(1Revolution/1.25mm) = 2560 Microsteps/mm.
So you do have the correct value. Are you sure about your Z measurement?
Backing in topic, i have a model with a phrase (downloaded here https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1181494) and i’ve setup EstlCam like this:
Roughing:
Tool diameter 3 mm
Step over 80%
Depth per pass 1 mm
Allowanve 0,30mm
Feddrate 15,0 mm
RPM 10k
Finishing:
3,0mm
Stepover 2%
allowance 0
Feedrate 10,0mm
Computing precisin 0,05mm
With this configuration (that will need 2,5 hours to complete the work!!) the phrase Kiss is veeeeerrryyyy smooth and pratically collapsed -> not very slim like in the model…
The three line above Kiss disappear
The last phrase Army disappear too…
Hi steve,
i’m almost sure about the measure because i have a wood 10mm (1 cm ) taller (measured with caliber) and after in Repetier i press plus 10 on Z axis, this piece dont fit under the Mill.
It remain 0,3mm under the top surface of the wood
Put some calipers on your tool, is it 3mm exactly? Did you follow the estlcam walkthrough for all the basic settings like gcode output units?
Roughing step over shouldn’t be any higher than 45%.
Sounds like your z steps might be wrong, or wrong output units. Can you upload a picture, that makes it much easier to see whats going on.
Yes, i’ve measured the mill again and it is 3mm.
I’ve follow the instruction and Preset is set to Marlin with length unit “Millimeter” and Feed Unit “Millimeter per Minute”.
I’ve tick Use arc and I/J coordinates are relative.
This is the result: 
Is totally unprecise but this depends to the bad wood and the stock has moved on finishing 
However, i just look at the phrase Kiss, as you can see this is “fat”.
The result you see in this pic is exactly what i see on RepetierHost preview.
okay, so that isn’t really a 3D part it would work much better as a 2.5D part. I converted it for you as a 3D so you can see how it works. Try this so we can figure out were the problem really is.
I made this so you should start the tool on the surface of the piece in the bottom left corner.
Run my gcode
Kiss_Army_Badge.zip (8.83 KB)
O_O
Ok… i’ve imported it in RepetierHost and now all are pretty defined…!!!
The original workpiece is 15mm taller (if i remember well) so i have used netfabb to slim it and make 5mm taller (just to be faster).
Right now i cant run in the real machine because 2.5 hour is a lot, however i think the workpiece now will be fine!!!
How you have converted it from 2.5D to 3D ? Because if i set EstCam as the image you sent, i do not obtain your result… but again “fat” letter…
I’ve tried to simulate your gcode now but unfortunally my stock is too little (depth will be ok but length is few), so i cant run it right now :((
I’ve a Dremel 3000 and i think that 4mm depth on roughing is too much for this machine :)))
When you can, can you explain me how did you made this gcode ?
Maybe i can try to find a smaller model so i can try it
All the setting I used are in that screen shot. Did you try using those settings?
When you open the .stl you can adjust the size before that settings screen.
What seems wrong with that it just looks really small? Run the same settings on a bigger version. See if it looks different.
If i expand it till 20cm (in the first screen) i obtain a most detailed version…
The original version is 65mmx67x15 (that will be perfect for me…) and if you open the original file in EstlCam (without modify the dimension) i obtain “fat” phrases and the lines above Kiss disappear… but in the original .stl file is pretty defined.
So… the only way to obtain a good results… is to make it 200cmx200cm or little less… ?
I just would like to obtain the same result in 65x67x15 too…
Unfortunately level of detail comes down to bit size. With a 3mm end mill all x and y corners will get a 1.5mm radius.
When you get the hang of things a bit more, you can rough out most of the wood with a large mill, then do the final pass with a smaller one for more detail and faster milling times.
If you check out some big machines youll see they actually have a turrent of bits, up to 30 or so. All to achieve different things.they will typiccally use 5 or so different bits per part.
Take it slow, make a few cuts, try some different objects. You’ll learn quick. The one you chose to learn on is actually a 2.5D part and actually not very suited for milling. I need to find a cool part amd do a walkthrough. If you check the videos page you’ll see a new video where he made a rose relief and changed bits in the middle. The part came out great. Might give a better inderstanding of what I’m try to describe.
Feel free to ask questions.
I’ve tried to change tool for roughing (5mm or 8mm) and getting more details in finishing but it is even fat 
The only way is make the model bigger… i was thinking that making all with a 3mm was help to have better details… I was looking your video where you drill an half “donut” (Mostly Printed CNC Vs. Oak ROUND2! - YouTube) and this is small and pretty defined… maybe just because the shape is simple…
So you suggest me to start first with “flattern” image (like this ) and create on “hand” all the cut i want ?
I’ve choose this model because i was thinking it was simple to drill… no circle and only few parts to cut…
Maybe right now is no possible to create a model with small dimension and drill it…
Now i go to see your video.