Estlcam 2.5D tutorial?

okay, so that isn’t really a 3D part it would work much better as a 2.5D part. I converted it for you as a 3D so you can see how it works. Try this so we can figure out were the problem really is.

I made this so you should start the tool on the surface of the piece in the bottom left corner.

Run my gcode

Kiss_Army_Badge.zip (8.83 KB)

O_O

Ok… i’ve imported it in RepetierHost and now all are pretty defined…!!!

The original workpiece is 15mm taller (if i remember well) so i have used netfabb to slim it and make 5mm taller (just to be faster).

Right now i cant run in the real machine because 2.5 hour is a lot, however i think the workpiece now will be fine!!!

How you have converted it from 2.5D to 3D ? Because if i set EstCam as the image you sent, i do not obtain your result… but again “fat” letter…

I’ve tried to simulate your gcode now but unfortunally my stock is too little (depth will be ok but length is few), so i cant run it right now :((

I’ve a Dremel 3000 and i think that 4mm depth on roughing is too much for this machine :)))

When you can, can you explain me how did you made this gcode ?

Maybe i can try to find a smaller model so i can try it :slight_smile:

All the setting I used are in that screen shot. Did you try using those settings?
When you open the .stl you can adjust the size before that settings screen.

Exactly the same settings except for edges and this is the result…

mine.png

What seems wrong with that it just looks really small? Run the same settings on a bigger version. See if it looks different.

If i expand it till 20cm (in the first screen) i obtain a most detailed version…

The original version is 65mmx67x15 (that will be perfect for me…) and if you open the original file in EstlCam (without modify the dimension) i obtain “fat” phrases and the lines above Kiss disappear… but in the original .stl file is pretty defined.

So… the only way to obtain a good results… is to make it 200cmx200cm or little less… ?

I just would like to obtain the same result in 65x67x15 too…

Unfortunately level of detail comes down to bit size. With a 3mm end mill all x and y corners will get a 1.5mm radius.

When you get the hang of things a bit more, you can rough out most of the wood with a large mill, then do the final pass with a smaller one for more detail and faster milling times.

If you check out some big machines youll see they actually have a turrent of bits, up to 30 or so. All to achieve different things.they will typiccally use 5 or so different bits per part.

Take it slow, make a few cuts, try some different objects. You’ll learn quick. The one you chose to learn on is actually a 2.5D part and actually not very suited for milling. I need to find a cool part amd do a walkthrough. If you check the videos page you’ll see a new video where he made a rose relief and changed bits in the middle. The part came out great. Might give a better inderstanding of what I’m try to describe.

Feel free to ask questions.

I’ve tried to change tool for roughing (5mm or 8mm) and getting more details in finishing but it is even fat :frowning:

The only way is make the model bigger… i was thinking that making all with a 3mm was help to have better details… I was looking your video where you drill an half “donut” (Mostly Printed CNC Vs. Oak ROUND2! - YouTube) and this is small and pretty defined… maybe just because the shape is simple…

So you suggest me to start first with “flattern” image (like this ) and create on “hand” all the cut i want ?

I’ve choose this model because i was thinking it was simple to drill… no circle and only few parts to cut…

Maybe right now is no possible to create a model with small dimension and drill it… :frowning:

Now i go to see your video.

I’m not understanding this last post.

You should try a different part, that kiss badge isn’t working for you come back to it later when you understand the setting a little better. What else would you like to make and I can give you setting for it?

Sorry for my very bad english…

I will try again few times to create gcode for this “kiss” without modify his dimension.

Do you have already the gcode that you had used to create the donut? This was a little part (looking to the vide was 7mmx7mm) and i could try first to drill it…

The gcode I sent you is about as good as that kiss can get without making it bigger. You aren’t going to get better results going smaller. You should try something different.

I don’t have the doughnut anymore. I can make one if that whats you really want. That part is 80mmx80mmx10mm

Ok, in this days i will try to buy a stock bigger and i will try with this gcode :slight_smile:

i’ve tried to create the gcode of the kiss model (only making it more slim -5mm- and without modifying the dimension)

i’ve used CamBam and first of all just with roughing process it was taking 4 hours!!!

After testing the options i’ve get a better one with 44 minutes for rough and finish, using a 3mm drill as option. Tomorrow i will attach here the gcode

ps: can i attach the cambam model too?

You really need to try a different model, the KISS one isn’t ideal to learn on.

You can attach any file you want you just need to .zip it first.

This is the model i’ve generated.

Later i will try to drill it and tomorrow i ll go to buy some wood taller and maybe 20x20.

And maybe, i will try it with my new drill… Kress 800 :slight_smile:

Kiss-Army.zip (30 KB)

This is the result made with Kress 5mm drill.

Unfortunally stock was really bad and for sure finishing with this drill is not the maximum.

What kind of endmill are you using? You say 3mm, but…it would be helpful to know more about # of flutes, upcut or downcut, flat end or ball end, etc, etc.

it is 5mm flat with 1 flute. i’va made this at 12500 rpm approx, using 1.2mm each layer during rought.

To do finishing this endmill is not good, i think will be better a ball one but right now i dont have, i will receive a complete set it the next days.

The problem will be how to change the endmill from rought to finishing…

However, this is a very bed stock, a lot of dirty while cutting

You can do some nice finishing with a 90 degree end mill you just need to do a much lower finishing step over.