okay, so that isn’t really a 3D part it would work much better as a 2.5D part. I converted it for you as a 3D so you can see how it works. Try this so we can figure out were the problem really is.
I made this so you should start the tool on the surface of the piece in the bottom left corner.
All the setting I used are in that screen shot. Did you try using those settings?
When you open the .stl you can adjust the size before that settings screen.
If i expand it till 20cm (in the first screen) i obtain a most detailed version…
The original version is 65mmx67x15 (that will be perfect for me…) and if you open the original file in EstlCam (without modify the dimension) i obtain “fat” phrases and the lines above Kiss disappear… but in the original .stl file is pretty defined.
So… the only way to obtain a good results… is to make it 200cmx200cm or little less… ?
I just would like to obtain the same result in 65x67x15 too…
Unfortunately level of detail comes down to bit size. With a 3mm end mill all x and y corners will get a 1.5mm radius.
When you get the hang of things a bit more, you can rough out most of the wood with a large mill, then do the final pass with a smaller one for more detail and faster milling times.
If you check out some big machines youll see they actually have a turrent of bits, up to 30 or so. All to achieve different things.they will typiccally use 5 or so different bits per part.
Take it slow, make a few cuts, try some different objects. You’ll learn quick. The one you chose to learn on is actually a 2.5D part and actually not very suited for milling. I need to find a cool part amd do a walkthrough. If you check the videos page you’ll see a new video where he made a rose relief and changed bits in the middle. The part came out great. Might give a better inderstanding of what I’m try to describe.
I’ve tried to change tool for roughing (5mm or 8mm) and getting more details in finishing but it is even fat
The only way is make the model bigger… i was thinking that making all with a 3mm was help to have better details… I was looking your video where you drill an half “donut” (Mostly Printed CNC Vs. Oak ROUND2! - YouTube) and this is small and pretty defined… maybe just because the shape is simple…
So you suggest me to start first with “flattern” image (like this ) and create on “hand” all the cut i want ?
I’ve choose this model because i was thinking it was simple to drill… no circle and only few parts to cut…
Maybe right now is no possible to create a model with small dimension and drill it…
You should try a different part, that kiss badge isn’t working for you come back to it later when you understand the setting a little better. What else would you like to make and I can give you setting for it?
I will try again few times to create gcode for this “kiss” without modify his dimension.
Do you have already the gcode that you had used to create the donut? This was a little part (looking to the vide was 7mmx7mm) and i could try first to drill it…
The gcode I sent you is about as good as that kiss can get without making it bigger. You aren’t going to get better results going smaller. You should try something different.
I don’t have the doughnut anymore. I can make one if that whats you really want. That part is 80mmx80mmx10mm
i’ve tried to create the gcode of the kiss model (only making it more slim -5mm- and without modifying the dimension)
i’ve used CamBam and first of all just with roughing process it was taking 4 hours!!!
After testing the options i’ve get a better one with 44 minutes for rough and finish, using a 3mm drill as option. Tomorrow i will attach here the gcode
What kind of endmill are you using? You say 3mm, but…it would be helpful to know more about # of flutes, upcut or downcut, flat end or ball end, etc, etc.