Inception!
I’m not sure you should be changing what was quoted.
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Speaking of quotes, I do like the new format though, but enough of the shenanigans from me. 
That is too cool, I didn’t think that would work.
Damn-it Jim! I’m a doctor, not a speech therapist!
WHOA… Pretty slick. Only the top two wheels on this version? Do you think the bottoms are just not needed then? It does seem to have a good amount of support with the tops, and I’ve noticed some people don’t raise theirs to table level anyways.
Loving the design change. I guess I know what I’m building myself for Christmas!
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Looks good. I really like this. I like how the leadscrew nut mounts. Is there any way I can get the garage to look like your renderings?
White paint. Lots and lots of white paint!
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Very exciting stuff!
Can we see some pictures of the dustshoe attachment?
Not until I try it. 
It might fail miserably. And i need to work out hose routing still.
I don’t take it that way. Makes it easier to understand what you’re on about.
I broke a few of those parts, having spares printed already made things a bit easier. But I understand your rationale, makes all the sense.
BTW, I can beta test the new gantry pieces you have the pic of above tonight if you’d like. I have to print some of the broken bits anyway, why not print the new ones, then break them? (I’m assuming, but for no good reason, the tube spacing is the same and the motor mount would line things up.)
These bits:
Well this is probably going to ruffle a few feathers but every piece has been changed. Some by not very much…Sorry. I did try and first to make a swap-able system but it just gets too constrictive and the build ends up being even more similar than it already is.
Trying to get the day to day stuff done so I can try and get started on finalizing this. I want to run through and double check screw lengths and try to get them all the same 1" or 1.25" (25-30mm) whatever works out the best. That gives more meat so maybe you gorillas will stop splitting parts (shhhhh I do it too)!
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As soon I I verify the no bottom wheels thing is okay I will upload the parts, under the condition that everything might change. once it gets proven out I will fix any small issues and work on instructions. Nothing new here as this is my usual approach but just in case you were unsure of my timeline.
Somewhere in there I buy bulk hardware and will be making Jigs. I already have a large batch of the stuff that gets imported (10mm gt2 stuff) so I should have 50 or so worth ready to go when/if it is ready.
I should be able to make a 25mm version pretty quickly and after that I can possibly adapt it to 6mm gt2 again but I doubt that will be worth the effort / cost difference.
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Nice design, I especially like this big middle bracket, it looks great!
Just one little concern, if I may: The bracket on which the leadscrew is attached seems a little weak to me. Considering the fact that this little thing will have to support the entire weight of the gantry+router+vacuum attachments, I’d be worried it might break or at least flex quite a bit.
You might want to beef it up, which shouldn’t be very difficult.
Just my 2 cents.
Looks like it prints in the orientation it sits in the assembly. Would be pretty hard to shear off since there’s very little lever action with it as close as it is to the edge. Looks to be about the same size as the current lowrider part, just less mass out from the attachment point.
Yup, it is a big unknown for me as well. I have to test it. It is 8mm thick, but the screw points are much more of a concern to me than the actual overhang. If it sucks, going back to the other style is easy.
I left a bit more room around the T8 nut so if you leave the T8 screws 1/4 loose it can actually move a bit for less friction / better out of alignment tolerances.
A choice has to be made. Maximum table thickness.
My thought process. Over kill to me would be a torsion box 2x4 table with 1/2" skins on both sides. That is under 4.5" thickness. I think a more realistic table is 2x4 Or 1x3 with a 1/2" top skin or 1/4" top and bottom. That is 4" thickness.
I know it isn’t a huge difference but it does make a difference. I am siding with the 4" unless someone has a valid reason to go thicker.
I believe I’m overlooking something. I thought the only reason for a max thickness was the fact that there were wheels on the top and bottom. With no wheels on the bottom, why does thickness matter? I’m going to feel stupid when you point out something obvious, but, hey. ¯_(ツ)_/¯
Easy overlooked, I thought that way at first as well. The lower mounts still hang under the table a bit. No easy way to make that go away. Anything that hangs past the tangent edge of the Z rail is under (or on top) of the table.
Some room was saved not using the wheels (1") already but I went a tad further. I am going to try and make an easier table, a little lighter as well.