I bought some of the hd ones. They are much better at sealing the top. The adjustable sections specifically are pretty poor at sealing the bottoms though, especially when open. To combat that, I could just put small stuff in smaller bins. But I think I will try printing some smaller cups to fit into the non adjustable parts for small nails and things. Hard to beat $50 for 10x.
I will say that the removable cups are pretty nice on the HF ones. Specifically, they are way better for reorganizing the bins. Resorting these HD ones is going to be a pain. The HF ones are bigger too. HF also has deeper ones that have the same footprint. The lids just don’t seat well.
So neither one is perfect. That’s ok for my hardware, but if I was an electrician and trying to organize my parts, I’d go with something better.
I’m going to collect all my parts and see if I can collect them into 10 pretty easily. If not, I might redesign for 20 or for 10 + a Plano-type side.
I use the HDX ones for my screws and printer parts. They’ve been great, I’ve never had issues with parts migrating and they are set upside down as often as right side up.
They seem good. I ended up buying 8 2x packs, and I’ve already filled a bunch of them. I want some kind of solution for even smaller quantities. I was going to whip up a simple box to print to make the smallest sections 1/2 or 1/4 sized, but the lid isn’t flat in the middle of the boxes, so I’m stuck there.
At some point, I will have so many scews, I won’t be able to find them if I have them. Sort of the law of conservation of trouble I guess.
I definitely want to get this thing built soon though. I feel like the hardware is trapped under a bunch of boxes. I keep thinking of other details though, and it’s getting crazy.
I was thinking about a solid workbench top (I don’t need that here)
I was thinking of using more shelves for some power tool storage, since it can be locked easier
I was thinking about maybe adding one drawer to the top for the most used screws (I use 1 1/4" wood screws for everything, except 2by’s then I use the 2 1/4 size ones). I have this idea that I’ll use the rawest, roughest 2x4 for the drawer front (as a statement for all those WWers that use ancient, air-dried, blessed mahogany from the titanic for drawer fronts), and this would be one project that it would actually be acceptable. Just add a lag screw to the front as a drawer pull.
ZOMG. 8 months ago. I am working on this project again, finally, and I even bought the plywood!
Now, I’m ready to cut it up, and I’m trying to decide where the CNC will be the most help. I have a decent table saw, and I could build the whole thing without the CNC, but the place where I’m sure I’ll screw up is attaching the vertical pieces to the top/bottom. The vertical pieces are 1/2" ply, and I’m sure driving screws into the top without some positive registration will end up out of alignment, and some of the boxes might be jamming.
So, part 1) should I cut the vertical pieces completely out on the CNC and leave tabs for assembly? Then I can just cut the holes in the top/bottom pieces and cut everything else on the table saw.
Part 2) Should I cut the grooves for the shelves on the CNC? It’s only 1/2" (or 12mm, really) ply, so I don’t want to cut more than 3mm in, especially in the middle where there are slots on both sides. Maybe I should make the middle from 3/4". Anyway, the trouble with a 3mm deep slot on a 30" piece is that there might be 2-3mm of difference in Z. Should I cut these on the table saw instead? WDYT? Am I just a big chicken?
Jeff, what if instead of slots you used a small strip of wood to sit the shelf on. It may take up a little bit more space in the cabinet, but it may be stronger. And would make it easier to change it up if you ever decided to. You could then use the CNC to pre-drill the holes in the panels.
At that point, depending on the strength and type of the boxes you are using, you may not have to put shelves in at all, but let the edge of the boxes rest on the strip. Essentially the box would be its own shelf/drawer. Just a thought.
I think what Johnny said is how the box of boxes build was done that was on here before. The one with harbor freight divided bins? The guy attached strips onto the sides of the center divider and outside carcass, then set his shelve on the strip, then more strips, more shelve, rinse and repeat (as it were).
Actually, I guess it wasn’t on here, but here is the link I’m talking about.
@nailhead409, a.k.a. Johnny, I was thinking I would make a light frame for each shelf, so the shelf would be made of 4 strips of wood, pocket screwed or something together in the 4 corners, just to save material. That’s only if the 1/4" ply is flexing. I’m cutting 3/8" slots, but I don’t mind a single nail or something to keep them in instead of a tight fit. Making 3/8" frames would be the most work, but it would be the strongest too.
The vertical space is actually the most restricted, because I want to have room for all the boxes I have, and I want it to be a comfortable height for working on, with casters. So I want to find a way to have 3/8" or less between the boxes. If I cut slots, I can also remove shelves and just keep larger items in a spot, if I don’t use all the boxes.
As for screws, the trouble with attaching the shelves with screws is the middle, and also screwing into the edge of 3/8" material. If I did screws, I’d need to offset the two sides to allow me to screw in from either side.
I can definitely cut those slots on the table saw, I have a crosscut sled that would hold it. It would definitely take a while though.
@mtwallet, aka Mike, It’s just that I don’t want to spend the vertical or horizontal room on that much support. It’s possible this will all fail, but wouldn’t that really be a success?
That does look nice. I’m 90% sure I watched that video when I started this project. That’s not too terrible, really. It would mean more wood on the sides, so it would get wider, but it would probably be shorter, so maybe I could fit more in there…
You could also stagger the dado cuts so you could cut deeper without fear of hitting the other side. Maybe have a little storage area on the bottom of one side.
And yeah, that video was actually in your first post, I just thought it was somewhere else. Doh!
I have always liked using these. I just made a counter for my friends shop and used them. you can get pre drilled sides or the cnc can make quick work of it.
[attachment file=62935]
These are the most secure as the shelf holds them in.
I like that hardware Ryan. That seems like it would work well. And you could offset the brackets by an inch on each side so you don’t compromise strength in the ply but they stay symmetrical in how they are stacked in the cabinet.
I actually kind of hate shelf pins. They remind me of the particle board furniture I had in college. Also, I would need 64 of them. I guess the reason they are on all the cheap furniture is that they are quick and cheap.
I did a “test” cut on 3/4" and my CAM seemed good, but I had a loose wire on my Z, so it dove into the very middle slot and cut the board in half. :(. Surprisingly, performing a full depth cut on 3/4" made a lot of smoke, but didn’t skip steps!
The slots were all within one layer of the ply (except for the dive bomb one), which is good enough for me. I guess I’ll be using the CNC.
I had more of a, “now how did that happen?” And then a little, “wow, it’s still going”. It was more of just a burny smell than smoke even. It didnt drop enough to hit the collet, it was about 1mm over
I also tried making 1/4" holes for a dowel to help me align it to cut the other side. I ended up needing to drill it out with a 1/4" bit, and it was tight. It would have worked though, I bet. That’s my first time trying double sided.
My low rider has been in rehab for a while, and I need this to get these bills out of my way, so I took advantage of the winter weather and just used the table saw and pocket holes to get this carcass going. Not my cleanest work, but it’s functional. I promised myself I’ll add some doors, and that’s a perfect chance to use the cnc to add a carving to the front.
[attachment file=75345]
Needs some cleaning up and some protection. I’m thinking some parts would be easier if I just painted. The top is definitely getting clear coat.
Then it is going on wheels and I’m loading it up. Can’t wait to get all these screws and nails in one place.
