High temp and exotcic filament upgrades

#1

I bought the Micro-Swiss plated all metal throat and nozzle about a month ago. I have been printing with it from 196C up to 260C, switching back and forth a few times to test this thing out running it 24/7 on a production printer. I am loving the setup so far, this takes out the largest downside the the MK8 extruders had. The current nozzles can usually handle lower temp PETG but the makergeeks Higher Temp PETG seems to cook the PTFE liner. These are also wear resistant to help with blended materials that would usually wear the brass nozzles quickly.

I have been emailing with micro swiss and got a chance to meet them at MRRF after I purchased the setup but before really testing it much. They have confirmed it is “high temp suitable” but I have not gotten a max temp from them yet.

I am trying to get some in the shop as I feel it is an amazing upgrade for anyone interested in exotic materials. Keep an eye out, I am going to try and offer the naked parts and maybe a custom mk style setup. I truly prefer the MK style extruders for many reasons but as always there is room for improvements. I have a ton of ideas and have been slowly working my way through them to hopefully make a good thing even better.

The current MK8’s usually last me about 3 months before the “PTFE” liner needs to be replaced for one reason or another. I also have a sample of some “improved” PTFE from Capricorn captubes.com just in case.

#2

I wish I could find a picture of the extruder this guy had on that water cooled printer.

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#3

Most of the people I know running hotter temps for exotics are using the E3D’s V6 all-metal hot ends with a stainless-steel tip.

#4

I have the microswiss in my MP3DP and my Wanhao duplicator i3. They are easy to install, and it’s nice to not second guess the tube when you’re doing PETG, or some of that stronger PLA.

#5

Have you had any issues yet? I don’t think I want to wait 3 months to start selling them, the parts seem very nice. I will just have to put disclaimers everywhere to properly flush the high temp crap out of the nozzle before a lower temp swap.

Next video cutting some mk style extruder parts, micro swiss has some slick looking parts but I would feel kinda lame buying them when I am literally surrounded by cnc machines…dang I’m lazy.

I appreciate the heck out of the E3D stuff but I would like to offer a low end option before I offer a “high end” option. I am the kind of guy that needs to know for sure if something is worth it. so if I was to buy or sell E3D stuff I would want to give a solid reason why it is worth the price. Like I did with the Mini-Rambo.

#6

I agree. It’s hard to stomach the cost of the E3D stuff. It’s what kept me from putting one on my system.

I haven’t read enough about the MK10 stuff to know how easy it would be to put on my printer. Right now I’m just chugging along with my MK9 and mostly just printing PLA and some ABS.

#7

I haven’t had any problems with the microswiss stuff. Well, I might have, but I think that was just because I was using PETG the first time, not the throat/nozzle problem. I don’t have my printer running as much as yours so 3 weeks of your testing is probably worth as much as my 6 months :slight_smile: .

You also have to clean out the PLA when going higher, right? I had a clog that I blamed on the PLA burning (I read it can do that somewhere). How do you clean out your nozzles? Do you use cleaning filament like this?:

http://www.makergeeks.com/3d-printer-cleaning-filament.html

#8

I just double purge I guess you could call it. I hand force filament though and don’t let it sit when swapping.
So pla to petg I pull the pla out at about 170, that usually gets most of it then start feeding in petg until it hits temp.
Going to a lower temp material I just heat it all the way to the last high temp material setting, then change it to the low temp, and start forcing the lower temp material though until it gets pretty close to the target.

#9

Just put my E3dV6 back on my Max. Got tired of the new seeme hotend clogging. Since MRRF I’ve had to take it apart 5 times for clogs! Got fed up and printed a new mount for the auto calibration board for seeme’s new hotend to fit the v6. So far so good!

#10

Some guy there told me there first batch of nozzle was drilled wrong. I’m not sure if you heard him talking about it but he said the same thing about his nozzle, he said Seeme handed him a new nozzle and said they had the final angle to sharp and it created too much back pressure. Something like that. They had just fixed it maybe?

#11

I have several posts on here regarding E3D and Titan extruder setups and by far nothing that is offered will match these solutions.
I used to have the MK series direct feeds… but they always over time clogged etc
I learned a lot with the MK but the time my friends has come to speak of many things… of shoes–and ships–and sealing-wax-- Of cabbages–and kings… I needed a extruder/hotend that would work with ANY type of filament, swapping was for the birds on this as loading/unloading is not the easiest thing.

E3D hot end - why?
Reduced clogging by 80% - I had it clog once but it was due to a faulty end.
Proper cooling of the filament before extrusion… allows for all sorts of filament types and hardness and heating needs.

TITAN EXTRUDER SYSTEM - Why?
Print quality
The gear ration is 3:1! so its super accurate and less slippage to the MK series.

Loading/unloading
To load - heat it up to 190+ and turn the gear… done
To unload - vice versa…

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#12

I’ve got a handful of E3D v6 hot ends to play with, but was planning on using the MK8 extruders with them. I’m going to have to look into the Titan.

Barry, is that a five color mixer hot end? That’d be only one color short of perfect. :wink: