I waited a while to start this, finishing up a semester at uni, wondering if the update would come.
Stuff it. If an update comes, I’ll have something to upgrade to.
So I laser cut 6mm acrylic in the makerspace at uni (ANU makerspace) and printed the parts at home. (See how the top right has split between layers? Hope the upgrade replaces that part!). And I’m on my way.
Using a Makita RT0701C (the cordless version is in the pics to start me off). I still haven’t built a table yet.
Only beef so far is that the V1 logos don’t line up on the YRoller parts
I’m looking forward to cutting some plywood furniture.
Welcome. I look forward to seeing your projects. I haven’t seen anyone use a cordless router before but it actually makes sense. I’ve never used one but if the battery lasts long enough and it’s obvious when it’s low, then you could maybe pause the job to say out batteries.
Those images didn’t show up though. I think you’ve shared a link to a private copy of the image. When I share images from Google photos, I first “create a link”. Then I go to that link. Then I click the photo (so it’s the picture with a black background) and then I right click and “copy image address”. (I’m doing this from memory, so the names may not be exact).
I’ve a RAMPS 1.4-derived MKS board that has 5 stepper drivers. So for no real reason other than I had the board I’ve wired this thing to have the 2 X motors and 2 Z motors on their own drivers. I’ve also wired endstops for each X side, for one Y end, and for each Z max. I plan to have a probe thingo for Z min.
Can someone have a look at this compare result and tell me if the changes I’ve made to Marlin show any glaring errors? CLICK HERE FOR THE GITHUB COMPARE
I started with Ryan’s Ramps dual end stop firmware and made changes to swap 2 Y drivers for 2 Z drivers, adding E3 pins info for the second Z driver.
(I’ve also stuffed around to make the fan control work as a controller fan, and set a spindle_enable_pin to control a SSR for the router.)
The board is HERE. And as far as I can tell, the pins for it are as per:
I guess my main concern is about the correct addressing for the second Z driver. I read somewhere that Marlin, when dual Z drivers are sought, uses the pins allocated to E3.
I can take a closer look this afternoon. But I don’t think it would use E3 unless you had dual x, y, and z. Since you don’t have Y2, it should be using E2 for Z2.
The pins for Z endstops are also tricky because you’re not using zmin. I’ll take a look when I get a chance though.
I’ve no good reason for switching the controller fan other than I needed 12V, getting it with a PWM output seemed like solution, and, like Everest, it was there.
I did home Y first because I wasn’t sure whether hanging the spindle weight at random places across the Y axis would have any effect on X repeatability (it shouldn’t, but why not eliminate teh variable). So I want to home Z to level the Y axis, then home Y and X (squaring Y) with one command to the origin, Y first.
I will report back. But after trying to crimp JST pins on to the end of some cable and failing, I’m waiting for some pre-terminated cables to come so I can chop them up. And in Aus there’s no quick source for that gear.
Haha. Let us know how it works. Maybe it is better.
Be skeptical of precrimped cables. I spent a bunch of time debugging things assuming the precrimped cables were perfect. If I had just beeped them out when I first saw issues, I would have saved hours. I still prefer precrimped when I can though. FWIW, I had pretty good luck with these crimpers foe JST (IIRC, they were JST-X?):
Interesting, the one from Fry’s uses a different arrangement for the anvils than the normal generic models. It could be the difference between ratcheting and non though…
