Jalisco, Mexico Build

Still needs proper Table with belts . Its going to be able to cut 4’x8’ so 56"x 111". Still needs wire loom, hose for vacuum, aluminium L angle, and lcd case with clip.

Has Raspberry pi 3 with Octoprint and CNC.js.

Kinda dumb making the Table Top last but…

 

Digging the electronics boxes.

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Should I put filters or some kind of curved top cover for the fans because of saw dust? I made the ramps case out of a waterproof box I bought off aliexpress that was too small for the project I bought it for but it was perfect for the ramps board with some modification. I figured I could just open and vacuum when need be.

 

I don’t have any on mine. I just hit it with the air compressor every few projects or so.

Got the case for the lcd controller and replaced the knob with one I had lying around. And added status RGB lighting. Blue=Idle Red=Running Green=Job finished

Does anyone know how to use all 5 drivers without using endstops, with just a z-probe?

As far as I can tell there are only two options without modification 1. No endstops with 3 drivers. 2. Dual endstops with 5 drivers.

I have no problem modifying the firmware I’m no expert by any means but can figure it out for the most part with some google guidance.

Or will I be just fine using the 3 drivers and have extras?

the drivers are cheap but shipping from Ali to Mexico takes 3 weeks to 2 months and if me upgrading to 5 cuts down on replacing overworked drivers then it would be worth it.

Or if I keep them cool they last? IDK

I know I will have to order or build some wire extensions to take X and Z out of series if I decided to upgrade.

Looking for an experienced opinion.

 

No problems at all this way, plenty of headroom on all the drivers these days (series wired).

 

You need to edit out the endstop stuff and re-flash the firmware. Not too big of a deal, but no differences.

Build looks good so far!

ok, I’ll trust your judgment and just leave it at 3.

Thanks for everything Ryan, I got into 3d printing in 2014 because of the Printrbot Simple kit. I love the concept of using cheap materials to build expensive things. All of your projects are amazing and simple. And in turn, created a great community I learned so much on this site alone.

I’ll be building the MP3PD next then a laser dedicated MPCNC.

I noticed on a video of the Lowrider you uploaded on youtube you have longer z rails than the default 3.5, I have been conflicted whether I should cut some longer rails to use the whole leadscrew or at least most of it. I think the max I could do with the 300mm leadscrews is 18" of rails for 9.5" of Z height. I know I would never use that much height but for just loading wood and safety (in case I mess up and go above the rail length and pop out of bearings) Or is the router weight an issue at heights above around 3.5"?

 

At the time I did not had a way to cut the stainless very well. It doesn’t matter though just adds a tiny bit of added weight.

 

Awesome, thank you. I love learning this stuff and making more things, I just got lucky that so many of you do as well!

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What size hose fits the vacuum attachment?

and do I have the voltage on the pots correct?

My Steppers specs:

  • Model Number:17HS19-2004S1
  • Phase:2
  • Step Angle(degrees):1.8degree
  • Holding Torque:84oz.in/59Ncm
  • Current / Phase:2A
  • Size:42*42*48mm
  • Shaft Diameter:5mm
With pot =.9*(stepper current/2)

I’m getting 0.9 volts for all three drivers in series. Right?

I am not seeing your drivers listed but if you have DRV8825, 0.9V is a bit high you will need active cooling and a bit of luck to run them that high.

I do have the DRV8825 drivers. I do have active cooling. What voltage per driver do you suggest?

 

Found this!

https://v6zmvq5nk5.codesandbox.io/

A calculator with different driver options.

so will the steppers run fine with 75% capacity with 0.75 volts on the driver pots?

Should work fine. Probably would work fine @ 0.7V, too.

Updated firmware for Router and Laser control. I also added case temp, Rgb control and status. I edited the fan and hotend graphics to represent router bit and case temp.

I’ll provide code if anyone wants it.

Webp.net-gifmaker-1.gif

Cool!

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To change Fan Graphic animation you need to edit your configuration.h file and look for #define STATUS_ALT_FAN_BITMAP and remove the “//” to uncomment the line. Then edit the dogm_Statusscreen.h file under …/Marlin/src/lcd/dogm/ and replace the fan bitmaps code with the following.

//
// Provide default Fan Bitmaps
//
#if !defined(STATUS_FAN_WIDTH) && STATUS_FAN_FRAMES > 0

// Provide a fan animation if none exists

#if STATUS_FAN_FRAMES <= 2

#define STATUS_FAN_Y 2
#define STATUS_FAN_WIDTH 20

#if ENABLED(STATUS_ALT_FAN_BITMAP)

const unsigned char status_fan0_bmp[] PROGMEM = {
B00000000,B11110000,B00000000,
B00000000,B11110000,B00000000,
B00000000,B11110000,B00000000,
B00000000,B11100000,B00000000,
B00000000,B11010000,B00000000,
B00000000,B10110000,B00000000,
B00000000,B01110000,B00000000,
B00000000,B11100000,B00000000,
B00000000,B11010000,B00000000,
B00000000,B10110000,B00000000,
B00000000,B01110000,B00000000,
B11111100,B11100011,B11110000,
B11111100,B11010011,B11110000,
B11111100,B10110011,B11110000,
B11111100,B00000011,B11110000,
B11111111,B11111111,B11110000,
B11111111,B11111111,B11110000,
B11111111,B11111111,B11110000
};

#if STATUS_FAN_FRAMES == 2
const unsigned char status_fan1_bmp[] PROGMEM = {
B00000000,B11110000,B00000000,
B00000000,B11110000,B00000000,
B00000000,B11100000,B00000000,
B00000000,B11010000,B00000000,
B00000000,B10110000,B00000000,
B00100000,B01110000,B01000000,
B00000100,B11100010,B00000000,
B00000000,B11010000,B00000000,
B00001000,B10110001,B00000000,
B00000010,B01110100,B00000000,
B00000000,B11100000,B00000000,
B11111100,B11010011,B11110000,
B11111100,B10110011,B11110000,
B11111100,B01110011,B11110000,
B11111100,B00000011,B11110000,
B11111111,B11111111,B11110000,
B11111111,B11111111,B11110000,
B11111111,B11111111,B11110000
};
#endif

#else // !STATUS_ALT_FAN_BITMAP

This is only useful if you have your machine set up to use the fan pins d9 to power a relay to control power to your router.

or you just want a static endmill graphic.