Janky, cost/weight smart table designs that would make MacGyver proud

Love the beautifully crafted table designs folks have shared, am digging thru many impressive CNC Table build posts.

Curious, what minimally viable, janky but functional designs folks have quickly thrown together for 4’x8’ panel cutting. Looking for rapid cheap designs/pics that would make MacGyver proud.

Want my LR3 to be usable and covered in chips ASAP, and, not end up gathering dust as an unusable project. Looking at LR3 similar to my 3D printer, a tool that’s also a fun project that will get upgrades if/when needed, and precious time permits.

Currently considering pimping out a pallet that was strong/flat enough for deck railing glass panels, will slap some chipboard/MDF on top. Use LR3 to surface. Prop up on sawhorses/buckets and shim level/flat when in use. Love that LR3 can be mounted/removed relatively quickly, I can upgrade table setup later.

Probably not janky enough for you, but I threw together a couple of sawhorse like stands and a couple of box rails.
This was so that I can either put a slab of wood on the stands or have a torsion box on top.
The rails are adjustable with jacking screws to ensure that they are level, parallel, co-planer and any other geometric constraint that I want…

It started with LR2…

And now has LR3 !.

As I said, probably not janky enough … :wink:



Thanks for sharing @Dna. Love the use of ply to make box/beams for the side rails, and ply T mounting plates. Looks fast to assemble and disassemble, looks portable even.

Do you have pics with the Y axis belts mounted?

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Will take some on the weekend. Basically I just made a right angle out of couple of pieces of 18mm ply, the top is 50mm x 65mm and the vertical is about 20mm, just enough to get a couple of screws in. I measured the Y tensioners to be about 62 mm to the outer edge when they are aligned with the Y drive.


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Right hand side. I swapped the tensioners to the front because I have more access on this end. Top of the bracket is 65mm x 50mm.

Left hand side. Top of the bracket is 30mm x 50mm.

Brackets are 18mm ply glued with a single screw to hold them until the glue dries and two screws into the ply box. Its located 20mm from the end and flush with the top. I then positioned the tensioner by aligning it with the Y drive rollers and screwed it down.



I started out looking for what you are and I built this:

Before I cut the brackets though I just pocket screwed the box beams to a 2x4 and threw a piece of ply on top so I could bootstrap the build.

It wasn’t very square but it worked ok for a temp solution.

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Another idea would be to make a short but full width table using a hollow cor door Just rip about a foot off the end and plug with a strip of wood.

It would give you a flat square surface to bootstrap your build and also a nice platform for a smaller project when you don’t want to use the whole garage.

Spoil board attachment would be interesting though.


My garage workbench top is actually a solid core door. Found one at a lumber yard years ago with a little damage for a steep discount, and it’s been through 3 different homes/garages now. I never even got around to putting a finish on it. Takes a beating, and doesn’t need the end filled where it was cut.
Wouldn’t call it “lightweight” or “portable” though.


Stumbled onto the quick and dirty table @ Table | V1 Engineering Inc

Anyone using hollow core doors, reinforced with MDF/particle spoilboard? Hollow core doors look like torsion boxes to me. 2nd hand flat panel hollow/solid core doors are easy and cheap to find. Still have 36" wide hollow panel doors left over from recent remodel, going to try that out…

So many Janky things going on here during cut of 2nd LR3 Strut…

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