Jeb's Lowrider V2 Build

I started with the table to get a good base for the Lowrider V2.

The depth of the built torsion box is 8.25 inches.

Four full size 3/4" sheets of MDF later, I have a sturdy (and heavy base).

(The leg leveling kit off Amazon is awesome)

I’m using full sheets of MDF top and bottom and using them as a reference for the torsion box and side rails.

The side rails are (2) 3/4" BB ply strips with channel strut bolted on.

The side rails are slotted at the ends (to allow vertical alignment) and through bolt to brass threaded inserts into the torsion box (each side of the torsion box is double thick).

I know I need to brace the legs (and will), but this is rock solid as is.

Pics attached and will post when I get the rest assembled.

 

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That thing is a beast. Looks great. Can’t wait to see more.

That is a beefy table!

Six weights and a roll of paper towels, no way is it going anywhere!

I have honestly considered buying some garage sale weights just to use as clamps. :slight_smile: I don’t own any for lifting.

If someone just made some sort of bowflex machine that worked as a generator or something…That way it wouldn’t feel like lifting weights wasn’t just for vanity. Million dollar idea #24581.

Hah. Clamps are one thing I never have enough of…

Eventually, I’d like to make a lighter table and use this a project table (hence the depth and weight).

So one of the first things make would be to let the Lowrider cut some fair curves into a set of 2x4’s then I could properly clamp the new table.

But the paper towels really saved me on this one ;).

Got most of the gantry screwed together last night, so it should be assembled this weekend (depending on kid activities…).

Got her up and running well.

The main thing I’m working on is a rest/home area that will keep everything aligned.

So far I have a C shaped bracket that bolts to the channel strut, and it has divots for the rails to rest.

So I can set the height and square alignment once, and if things get out of whack, I just reseat and turn motors off and back on!

Next redesign will have alignment legs to reference off my full MDF top sheet (for square), and maybe vertical adjustment for each side Z height.

Pics below.

7 Likes

That is so freaking clever! I want that, and I want it now!

I think I’d want it shorter, and I want the pipe rests deep enough there’s no chance of it being misaligned. I would also have some starting gcode to lift the gantry up on startup. I’m getting more convinced all the time that adjustments are the devil, and I just want it bolted down in the right place from the start. But I can see how it`s easier to adjust it than the whole piece of unistrut.

This is a big win for unistrut, IMO. Thank you for sharing.

I guess I could actually make one that’s just an inch tall, and screws down from the top to my spoil board. Then I’d just have to cut a hole in the spoil board under the resting position to make room for the bit.

Shorter would be nice, but I really want full sheet capacity. So I need the front cutout for work on this end.

The ones I just cut are taller than the ones in the pic.

The divots are 126mm apart, and I used a diameter of 26mm (25.8mm in the STL model).

I think with a horizontal L bracket, I can reference off of the top of the unistrut, and then the edge of the MDF top.

Perhaps we are overthinking it, and all we need is a L piece with divots, and the short leg hangs over the edge of your top.

Dogbone that inside corner, don’t screw it down, then it can be a removable home/rest reset! (and you can make it tall enough to not hit your tools. (I had a jig like that for my first 3d printer…)

I’ll sketch something up tonight.

The table only version works pretty good. Here are my files and some pics.

Here is a link to a DXF for 1/2" MDF with a 1/8" bit:

12 Likes

Ryan, it will only let me thank Jeb once…

That is awesome. Great, simple design.

I added one for ya!

I need to play with it some more. The front bar fully seats, but the back isn’t fully in.

I think the dimension might be 125mm c/c of bars, but you get the idea.

And it works really well.

Now if my unistrut was referenced to the top of bed I’d be off to the races…

This makes me want to design a nice full size torsion box that slots together tight…

From the drawings on LR1 and LR2, 126mm on center looks right. Did you get the radius right? Maybe there’s some other error.

Hey Jeb great setup!! How did you attach your belts? Do you have a picture? I am also using the unistrut setup. Thanks!

Agreed, 126mm c/c in theory, therefore 151.4 out to out.

Caliper says 150.8mm both ends (plastic shrinkage I assume), therefore 125.4mm…

I’m laying out centerlines in Fusion for a possible new joint up top (just in time for your rebuild…).

And a big Thank You to Ryan for an awesome machine that can cut so good even with some slop (the GT2 timing belts are saving me).

I’ll try and grab a pic in the AM, but I’ll describe it (all Homedepot parts).

3/8"x2" Bolt (parts below are from outside in to the unistrut)

3/8" washer (guide for zip tie)

3/8" Chrome spacer so zip tie doesn’t rub (in packs of 2 at Homedepot)

3/8" washer (other guide)

3/8" nut (then tighten all that down)

To attach that to the unistrut, I used (2) 3/8" hole square plate washers for unistrut (packs of 5 at HD).

Then screwed into the standard 3/8" unistrut spring nut.

It’s very strong and you can loosen the bolt without it falling over.

To tighten everything, I’d loosen the bolt, pull on the plate washers, then tighten back.

You can see most of that in the 1615 and 1616 pics above.

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