The thing that I like about the end rest is that it will allow you to move the gantry to a known location and easily change the tool bit without removing the router from it’s mount.
Lane
If you can change the bit without removing the router, I’d like to see how.
As far as I can tell, it must be removed to get a wrench on it (as it doesn’t drop below the plate).
I will get a Z probe hooked up eventually, to make tool changes easier.
Fresh pics with newly designed XY mount.
See: https://www.v1engineering.com/forum/topic/lowrider-v2-upgrade-v2-5/
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I used this in my build and it works great!! Like you, I didn’t get my Unistrut perfectly aligned with the top of the bed. I thought I did a good job but one side is off by about 1mm. I’m really debating using the LR2 with a Facing Bit to face my entire 4’x8’ sub-work surface. Doing this should get the top of the sub-work surface perfectly level with the Unistrut on each side. Hopefully, this will let my waste board and work pieces also be level with the Unistrut in the X and Y directions which should compensate for the Z difference I have now. But, that’s a project for another day. lol.
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Glad it helped! Adjustable is nice, but I need to figure out a good jig to align the rails to the surface (or just face the whole thing…).
Once I get my final XZ plate posted, I think my next project will be to get the belt running inside the unistrut…
I’ve been thinking about a jig as well. I’m thinking that for a 4’ wide LR you could use about 3-4 pieces of 2” box steel (or some similar straight and rigid material) that are about 5’ wide so you have 6” of overhang on each side. If you lay these on the top of the table, you could then clamp the unistrut to the bottom of them. This should ensure that the unistrut is level with the top of the table. Should be simple to do and I just wish I thought of it last week before I finish my table. Lol.
I would love to see the new XZ Plate when you finish it. I am using your Z axis support for when the LR is turned off. I like it! I had a little filing to do for the slot and tab because I used a 1/4” endmill instead of the 1/8” you used.
My next project is going to be cable management. I’m thinking of using EMT conduit, steel cable and pulleys for this. I hope to work on it this weekend. I also need a better way to collect dust…
Sorry about the jig – I can post the straight corner one. I then use the new Fusion360 Dogbone script to pop the right sized ones in for designs I download.
As for cable management, the best trick I’ve found (from the Voron CoreXY 3d printer I built) is split 3/4" sleeving:
Then get a cheap tape measure (I like the 25’ fat tape ones), and cut what you need off it (also tape it so it can’t roll back up…).
Then put the sleeve around the cut piece of tape measure, run your cables in, and zip tie closed. The tape gives it rigidity when it hangs out and bends very easily (mine lays in the aluminum angle perfectly, and the tape measure end is easily taped to the dewalt cord).
Hope that helps you out.
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Great idea! I liked!!
Jeb, I am designing a lowrider of my own, I have gotten a lot of inspiration from your build. I was wondering, how far out does the unistrut overhang the ends? Right now I have a 4x4 cutting area, is 6 feet of unistrut on each side enough? Also, the C brackets you designed to keep the height and squareness of the cut head, what are the dimensions of those? How are they working for you? Any advice for a first time builder?
The unistrut at Homedepot is 10’ long, and I didn’t want to cut it, so I’m overhanging one foot on each side (and it’s plenty of room to mess).
I’ve gotten away from the brackets, and am using a jig like here:
https://www.v1engineering.com/forum/topic/jebs-lowrider-v2-build/#post-78950
That is enough to get started, but I wanted a reference that doesn’t get cut when I surface the spoilboard, I have one that references off what my rails attach to and then the sides of my spoilboard.
Basically start with the file linked above, then you will have to decide what you can reference from on your machine (and make that). That file above will reference off the piece you are going to cut, or reference off the square spoilboard, then startup, move gantry, and screw down your workpiece.
Also, by default the motors cut power after a time. I have a startup script that disables motor cutoff and lifts off the jig (then everything stays square). Basically you need:
M84 S0
That’s M84 S{zero}
I’ll try and post my script later (machine is cutting, so I can’t pull the card).
For a 4’x4’, you’d probably be fine with the above file. But it is awesome. It has kept square. Again the only problem until you customize is if you cut the workpiece all up, then need to ref again…
Adding something for duplicate detection…
Thank you Jeb. That helps a lot with my build. I will have 2 pieces of plywood 1.5" between the spoil board and the unistrut, I can build something to reference off of that.
I appreciate the advice for Marlin, I’m not to that point yet, I am just starting the planning phase. But thank you.
Jeb,
I took inspiration in your Cradle design and made a cradle that could fold out of the way if I had to utilize the full machine space. Thanks for the great idea/design!
Very cool! and I like those side rails.
Are you using the magnets on the plate for a dust shoe? I just didn’t have enough room to fit anything down there.
Life has been busy here, but I’m still working on my Lowrider:
- 500watt brushless spindle (spindle in hand, plate designed and cut -- need to design dust shoe)
- 10lb gas struts (in hand, working on side plate designs)
I’m planning my first LR2 build and currently 3d-printing the main parts. I like the unistrut and laminated pieces of plywood for the rails. My biggest concern was how to get all this level and flat without a good workbench or woodworking tools such as a jointer. Dimensional lumber can be so inexact at a big-box store but the engineered wood looks like a solid alternative. I do have large level concrete floors in my warehouse to work with though. Is there any issue with (lack of) wheel grip using those unistruts? Has anyone put a non-skid sticker on the rails to help with grip? Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Safety-Traction-Abrasive-Residue-Adhesive/dp/B072354ZXS/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=anti+slip+traction+fine+grit&qid=1553530901&s=hi&sr=1-3-catcorr
Unistrut adds a whole new level of issue with that (with zero added benefit in my eyes), you basically build a table as flat as possible and then add two rails on each side and try to match them to the table. It is much easier to just make a table and not use the strut.
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Jeb,
Yes, the magnets are meant for a dust shoe (still under development). I tried some 70mm brushes off Amazon, but they are too long for the LR2. I bought some foam today and will try utilizing that and see if i can get some better dust control.
As for the unistrut, I liked the idea of having one continuous piece for the wheels to ride on. I wanted a 4x4 cut area and this way I could make a 4x4 table and have the unistrut hanging off the front and back for extra travel. The unistrut came in 10' lengths so I just cut it in half and mounted it to the sides of the table. I like that it's smooth and easy to wipe down. I was also expecting it to be super straight, but I was not impressed with how straight it was when I was installing. That being said, I would agree with Ryan that it is unnessesary and adds some complexity to the build for no real gain. I do plan on flycutting my spoil board, so that should help true up the table back to the unistrut for future projects.
Agreed. The Lowrider is a great design and it goes great on a just a table.
But I do think that if you want to cut 4x8 sheets, that the unistrut rails (with a 4x8 mdf top) are one of the best economical options to get the travel distance needed. Then you just surface your bed level.
I don’t think you need grippy pads for the unistrut (or a table). You aren’t driving the wheels, the belt on the side is the grip.
I don’t doubt that. However, I have it in my mind that I want a full 4’x8’ of usable space. Essentially, I could slide a full sheet onto the table and go. The table has to be larger than a full sheet to accommodate a full sheet… and I just couldn’t wrap my head around how to get the rails nice and level with either 2x6’s or some weird solution with just small strips of MDF along the edge tops for the rails. I think I’m over-thinking it. Perhaps I should ask how often anyone CNC-mills a full sheet of MDF (or any wood product)? I have two projects in mind and neither are full-sheets (largest would be 36"x42").
I think the main attraction of a full-sheet machine is the ability to simply load an entire sheet of material on the table and go to town rather than having to break the panel down beforehand so it will fit into the machine.
There’s also the benefit of not needing to decide how big it needs to be. There’s not much point in making it bigger than 4’x8’, since it’s not that easy to find material bigger than that. Will I want to make new kitchen cabinets? Maybe. Or maybe I’ll want to cut out a 7’ long hat rack. If it’s a full sheet size, I know I can fit it.
That being said, the more experience I get with the machine, the more I want something in the 2.5’x3.5’ range, and the low rider is still a great machine at that size.