Well, I’ve been prowling on here for a while now reading, watched probably every LR2 video on Youtube and I decided today to take the plunge and build my own. Some parts are on order, some are on my 3D printers. I’m sure I’ll be leaning on all of you heavily during construction and I’ll try not to be to much of a pest. May God have mercy on my soul. Lol
Jeff
Good luck with the build! It’s a ton of fun. Has the snow melted in Calgary yet?
Lol, green grass and warm days my friend
You’re only a pest if you don’t have any issues, and your LR2 works better, faster, and sexier than anyone else’s. Then we hunt you down and loosen all your grub screws…
In the meantime, welcome aboard! Keep a weather eye out for the goat. The rituals must be observed, and the spirits appeased… 
:baphomet: Dang it! Still need to find a decent emoji pack… 
Ok so looking at controller boards. I’m thinking this with 2209s. Thoughts?
Greetings from Edmonton.
The SKR is a nice board. I just bought a used one, it should work well.
You’ll get one from the V1 store faster, and not much more $ (Once you factor in the LD). Plus you’ll know it’s not a crappy copy. If you can wait for China post, and don’t want the LCD, then that will save you some cash.
When it’s time to buy your steel tube, let me know. I work for a company that sells structural tube, and we have an office in Calgary. I’m the IT guy, so can’t do much with the sales department, but I know our prices are better than metal supermarket, and ours won’t have any rust. Downside is that we don’t have stainless, and can’t cut the 1" DOM. I rough cut the tube for mine with a hacksaw in the parking lot so that I could get it home in my car, lol
Lol, I’ve cut things in a parking lot once or twice …
I think I’m going with the stainless on this build, the CNC will be in my garage so I can’t control the humidity. Figure it would be safer. I really appreciate the offer though.
Jeff
I love the 2209’s. Sensorless endstops work great on the LR and I like being able to adjust the current without messing with the screws on the 8825’s.
Has anyone tried the printed Y axis plates?
Just so long as those are the Y plates for the tube size that you can get. It doesn’t specify in the description.
The Y plate needs slightly different dimensions for 25mm tubing versus the 1" (25.4mm) tubing, in order to keep the Z tubes parallel and vertical.
I was looking through the pics there to see if I could see a telltale “F” or “J” but they’re just not in places that are visible in those photos, so I couldn’t guarantee that you’d get the right one.
It’s not TOO difficult to develop yourself from the .DXF file, I suppose, or the dimensions of those .STL files could be checked against the DXF for the 25.4mm version.
First real full cut on my lowrider! I’m pretty pleased with the results. Three tool changes, as you can see in the second photo I think my z height for the cleanup pass around the letters was a smidge too low. Loving the lowrider and the community. Time to keep experimenting 
Looking real good!
I did a similar pocket and left a .2mm finishing pass. I think it cleaned up the edges but also added .2mm to the depth but didn’t do a .2mm for the rest of the pocket. At least that’s my theory, it would be great if someone else could confirm. I used estlcam, is that what you used?
I use Aspire
