@Bill, good point. I did that next. I took the X axis off, but I otherwise left the endstops in place. Those zip ties are tricky to get threaded, so I’m glad I didn’t have to take them back off. I have a fine soldering iron, so I didn’t risk the plastic, but there’s no way I can get heat shrink shrunk, so I left it off.
Cruising along. I don’t have a functional 3D printer, since I took the leadscrews from my other one, so I made a screw extension for the z axis end stop out of a dowel, which I drilled a 1/8" hole into, and I threaded the longest #6-32 screw I had from the bottom, and installed the dowel from the top.
I’m not familiar with this extruder, maybe someone can help me figure out if this is right. The “throat” looks a lot longer than the one in the vicious shop, and I can’t see any PTFE tubing from the top. Is this right? It’s screwed almost to the bearing, which is what the instructions said to do.
I’m hoping for some confirmation that it’s OK before I fire it up, but I bought it from vicious1, so I’m trusting Ryan’s elves.
I definitely need some wire management.
With the bed, glass plate, and some gino pads cut into 2" squares and installed:
This is the MK3 bed, and it has 4 screw holes. I only have three springs, but I ordered a 4th with me leadscrews, but this naked one shows what I did. I used M3 socker cap screws, because they fit, and I put a washer above and below the aluminum, and I installed an M3 nut under that washer to keep the screw tight with the bed. Then I put the spring on there, and went through the MDF Y plate, and installed another M3 nut underneath that. I plan on printing some M3 hand nut thingies as soon as this gets spun up.
Looking like a real 3D printer:
I wish there was a hole here to zip tie these wires down, like there is for the extruder:
I am using an ATX power supply from an old computer. I’m not sure it’s as good as a new one, or one of the ones commonly used for 3D printing. The specs on the side specify a max amperage for each 12V rail, so I had to be careful to match the 11A side of the ramps board with the higher spec’ed rail. I also tied the green PS_ON signal to the ramps board, and the purple, 5V stand by to the VCC on the ramps board. The result is that the switch by the power cord turns on the ramps board/arduino, and then an M80 or some similar command will turn on the 12V supply, and the PSU fan, etc. I can add the M81 to the end of my gcode, just to make sure the heated bed and extruder turn off.
I had to change two lines in the marlin Configuration.h:
#define POWER_SUPPLY 1 // Used to be 0
#if POWER_SUPPLY > 0
// Enable this option to leave the PSU off at startup.
// Power to steppers and heaters will need to be turned on with M80.
#define PS_DEFAULT_OFF // Used to be commented out
I have the temp sensors connected. I have to connect the bed heater and extruder heater, which should take like 5 more minutes. I connect the fan on the funnel to one of the D9-11 pins, but is there a good place to connect the extruder fan? I could just wire it into the 12V in, but I think it makes the 12V connection a little weaker the more wires I put in there. Thoughts? And thoughts on the extruder throat?