Thinking more about the table. I am liking the idea of a removable lid. The lid will have the glass, the baking soda, the bottom, and the trim around the edges. Underneath the lid, will be the ZXY and the electronics will be bolted to the “front” side. I can mount a button on the side, or a really big button on the side :).
My toddler will probably be able to make a mess, but I doubt he could lift the lid off.
The hard part is the corners want to mount to the bottom of the lid. So I’ll either have to reprint those with modifications to mount from the bottom, or I also ordered a 1" cylinder magnet, so I could probably get away with 1/2" on the top, braced at the sides, with the larger magnet to close the gap.
At the moment, I have 1/8" hardboard as the bottom of the bin surface. I sanded it a bit to smooth the rough side.
I kind of messed up the location of the glass/origin. This isn’t the final frame, just something to play with.
I didn’t get the magnet today. I’m using some from home Depot (5 of them). I found I liked the motion a lot more if I reduced the acceleration way down to 100 and the jerk down to 1. I was just moving it with the LCD.
I don’t have enough baking soda, and I have to work “early” tomorrow. So until next time…
It’s not silent. My MP3Dp is working a few feet away, and it’s quieter. I didn’t try to dampen it at all, either. I don’t think I would want it to be on when I was watching a movie, but I don’t think it would interfere with a conversation.
A note about that video. I don’t have my UN magnet yet, but I have some 12mmx4mm magnets (I think I bought them at HD). This was with 4 of them, and it wasn’t touching the bottom. I put a 5th one on there, and it is just barely rubbing underneath, and the magnet is much tighter. I assume the soda will dampen that a little too.
Odd that it is so much more loud than the printers. I am literally using all the exact same parts. Well I ran mine a few times yesterday and when you slow it down a lot to 20mm/s or so it is pretty quiet.
I am really wondering if this corexy is worth pursuing. I wanted to do a printer/diode laser build with it and a co2 laser rebuild. I don’t think I like it enough. That is just a lot of belt flopping around in the breeze for me to think ringing wouldn’t be a huge issue(or maybe it a zero issue because the forces are literally canceled out twice)…Physics.
Yeah, I wonder if it would be better to just do a cantilevered gantry if you don’t need Z.
I will say this. It is fun to watch. I was looking at the belt coming out of the motor when it was doing a pattern. It’s fun to see the two sides of the belt move at different speeds. So fun in fact, that I want to try to make a window to see that. But I don’t know how interesting that will be to anyone else.
I’ve talked to several “novices” about the sand table, and they seem reasonably interested. I mention that it’s corexy, and try to describe why that’s interesting, and their eyes glaze over.
I am really happy you made this machine corexy, because I really enjoy watching it.
Maybe the noise would be reduced if you filled the belts with concrete! Actually, a concrete top would be pretty badass…
Could you somehow seal the HD foam? Maybe with olive oil or something? Maybe you just let it stick, and then attack the surface with a wire brush? That would be pretty neat.
“Extruded Expanded Polystyrene Foam Board (XEPS) foam board.
A denser, more rigid, solid closed-cell foam. XEPS can be cut, routed, shaped and sanded without the need for a coating. Typical insulation densities are 1.5 lbs./cubic foot. While soft and vulnerable to denting and damage, machined surfaces have a good surface quality.”
Pretty sure that’s just blue/pink/green foam insulation. Yea, just did a little research, it’s the same thing. There’s XPS or EXPS, and MEPS. The PS is polystyrene, Molded Extruded, or eXpanded Extruded. The Molded Extruded stuff is the white crap that leaves the little beads all over the place. Expanded extruded is the colored smoother insulation we’re using on the lowrider waste board.
I didn’t exactly get a veto on the concrete from my wife, but it was a, “do that at your own risk”. I think I’ll stick with wood for this project at least.
My magnet came today. I found a box of bs in the back of the pantry.
[attachment file=41703]
At this point, I added a magnet to the top as a little passenger.
I think this will help me a lot on my sandify work. I noticed that I really like watching the first 8 minutes, but the next 24 are pretty boring. I think multiple smaller shapes might be more interesting, even if they don’t look as neat in the end. Sort of a difference between watching and creating.
I have the 1/2" in there and it’s a perfect size. I have the machine bolted to the bottom of the basin though. If I do the lid approach, then I’ll need to have something on top of the machine to bolt it to, and the longer magnet will help reach to the bottom of the basin in that case.
They come in handy around the shop. If the 3/4" isn’t quite long enough, you could probably stack one of them on the bottom of it to push it a bit closer.
I also sanded the bottom of my basin, so that if it drags anywhere, there will be less resistance. I should probably add some wax too, but this is just my prototype table.
The width of the gantry seems to be very critical. If it’s too small, then it clacks back and forth, instead of just moving the cart. If it’s too big, then it binds up. Maybe it’s a problem with my spacers. The ones I printed are about 9.5mm tall, 8mm ID and 12mm OD.
I’m assuming the correct distance would make all 8 bearings touch the rails? If I do that, then the rollers aren’t dragging on the rails.
I took the soda off (and I learned I do not want a career with cocaine). I flipped it over and measured that the rails were about 600mm at one end and about 595mm at the other. I finally figured out that the bases of the feet are in the right place, but the motor mounts aren’t flat to the surface.
[attachment file=41892]
[attachment file=41893]
So I added some blocks to force it square. I think it’s just because the plastic and the hardboard are both a little soft, so since there’s more material on one side than the other, it rotates.
[attachment file=41894]
“Fixed”
That’s making it bind up less. It’s pretty hard to make adjustments to this. I have to say, I would much prefer it if it attached below, but kept the top surface for reference. If I could just pull the basin off, I could get all this stuff adjusted really finely, and it would be easier to measure the work area and build the basin after the machine was dialed in.
