Kit with Dremel 4000

Hello all,
I am quite new to the whole maker thing, but I’ve really been bitten by the bug. So, I apologize in advance if some of my questions are a bit silly…

First, if I buy the Parts Bundle should I have a soldering station and digital multimeter or can I forego those costs? I know, I should probably buy one anyways.

Second, I have done a “Dremel 4000 site:” attempting to see if I can use my new Dremel 4000. From earlier posts, I cannot really tell how successful people have been. Some posts have included links to seemingly popular items on Thingiverse (example 1 and 2). How have others faired? Are there any concerns with using this sort of set-up? Has anyone used a Dremel, 3d printer, and laser on one machine? Given some notices I have read on the blog about attaching things to the z-axis, I thought it might be good to be a bit more direct about how well a Dremel 4000 implementation might be.

Third, I am considering using the 36" x 12" axis foot print, but will likely have to build a raised surface as the counter top that I will be working on is granite. Sadly, I’m quite limited to this as I’m building within an apartment and my roommate has requested I limited expanding my maker space too much more (haha). Has anyone else done something like this? What have your experiences been?


I used a dremel for a while I would try it and upgrade later. I didn’t need to solder anything I guess you need a meter if you want to set the stepper driver curent. You can buy a cheap soldering iron for 10 bucks and there are cheap meters too.

From what I understand the issue with using a Dremel is all in the power. You’ll have to run slower and take smaller bites than you would with the DeWalt 660 that’s suggested. No need for soldering unless you want to get really fancy with the wiring and I haven’t had to use a meter yet, but Harbor Freight and Amazon have some pretty cheap meters and I’m sure you’d find a use for one if you got it.

Matt (@msaeger),
Actually, that’s pretty close to what I am thinking about doing. Did you have any issues with specific materials using a Dremel?

Bill (@billsey),
I have three things I would like to do with the MP CNC:

  • Cut circular blanks from 1/4" wood (MDF, Pine, maybe Oak?)
  • Detailed lettering 11/128" (2 mm)
  • Topographic maps at a very high resolution.
    From your comments, I think this might be possible albeit at a cost of speed. I think I’m seeing 350 mm/s in the X/Y using the recommended DeWalt when I search the forums. Would I be looking at something like 300 mm/s or 100 mm/s with the Dremel 4000?

For reference, this is the Dremel I have. Some brief specs:

  • 5,000 - 35,000 RPM range
  • 120V

Edit: Included user handles.

It depends on the dremel. I have not checked in a while but some have terrible run out (the chuck actually wiggles). Everything will work. If you have one on hand use it for sure. Then you will know if you need to switch, but if you don’t have one the dewalt is much cheaper.

Shouldn’t need to solder, and if you buy the ramps from me no meter needed. If you get your own ramps you will absolutely need a meter.

I guess my last question is about the spoil board…

For that, I could just screw in some MDF run the spindle with a planer bit then a t-track/keyhole bit? Seems too easy.

What happens when you want to cut through a material? You’ll cut into the spoil board then, right? That’s why you have to replace it occasionally?

I cut out quite a few pieces with the Dremel all of it was wood I didn’t try measuring the run out I also haven’t done anything that requires high precision. I made a lot of those 3d puzzle type things, cutting out some various shaped single parts, and a little carving out letters. I did a lot of plywood, some mdf, pine, and oak. I was pretty conservative with the cut depth per pass with the dremel. I would try whatever you have if it doesn’t do what you want all you need to do is print a new mount. I have the dewalt on there now and it defiantly has way more power it is also a lot louder too.

For a spoil board I have been using mdf and when it got too messed up I flipped it and started using the other side. I have read some people resurface the spoil board but I didn’t think it was worth the time. I also see people surfacing them to make sure it’s flat and the same distance from the bit over the whole thing. I just shimmed the board. I have done mostly through cuts so it being a little uneven wasn’t an issue. I don’t think I am as demanding as a lot of people though.