Well dang, wrong again. I assumed 80% thickness/diameter ratio would be best…35%-45% seems best.
Im printing with 0,6 nozzel for almoust year or so. i find swett spot on 0,3-0,35 layer hight where the parts are strong and its printing quite fast. When im prototyping im pushing it to 0,4-0,45 put moust of that print will be scraped anyway.
If you took the strength compared to time, then 0.2-0.3 would be much better. It would be interesting to then compare number of perimeters or infill at that point, sacrificing time.
Since the Z layer adhesion is always the main problem, I wonder if the slicers could add something on the infill to help connect layers. Like connecting the innermost perimeter from even layers to odd layers in a dashed pattern and then connected odd layers to even layers in the opposite dashed pattern.
It sounds like we need a universal testing machine.
like a zipper almost.
Yes, that is on the short list.
I am so surprised about the laying down specimens, You would think the thick layers would be significantly stronger… Mind blown.
It’s hard for me to grasp. There’s just so much in play, which is probably why there are conflicting results in research. There are twice as many strands, but half as big, but there is more squish in the small ones… And then there’s the fact that it’s very inconsistent material, so the weakest point makes a huge difference…
I imagine the results could completely flip flop on a different printer.
I dont know much on this topic but I have been borrowing a 3d printer. With a .4 nozzle I print at .18mm layer height and am getting way nice prints than the friend that printed my mpcnc usually gets. I think he prints at .27mm and I have had a few of his parts split and delaminate. It seems a thinner layer would put the heat closer to last layer creating a better weld.
Filament in of itself can have a big impact. Garbage in garbage out.
Then the heat and speed at which you are printing, will help bond the layers together.
Thicker is not better. Not enough contact with the layers.
Like forge welding round stock to flat stock, it just isn’t going to work, unless you are really really lucky.
Thinner should be stronger, but, , the layers have no mass? even at high heat, such as they are truly melding (forging) together. But again, could that be a mass issue?
The right layer thickness, heat and speed for that type (brand, lot, etc.) filament should make a stronger part. But then Maker Muse (I believe, don’t remember now) states that Infill can be a waste of plastic. Better to have more perimeters than infill.
i was surprised as well… crazy!
I would liek to see a comparison though of other nozzle sizes to see if that rule holds true for 40% nozzle size for best results aka will 0.3mm from a 0.4mm nozzle be worse than 0.3 from a 0.7mm nozzle etc
Im still printing at 0.3mm though, printing at 0.15 is going to take way too long for someone who doesnt want to leave his printer unsupervised!
For some prints when you dont have to much of details or thin walls bigger nozzel is way to go. the other thing to achive strong part is printing on slightly higher temperature then default and lower fan speeds to 30-40% and go full on only on bringing its a lot that you can tune to have from same material totally different finish part.
So hopefully now he combines all of his strength videos and make the strongest part possible with a filament. He has done speed, temp, infill, generated infill, layer thickness, and maybe even annealing?
I might really have to build his test rig, or all three of them. I really like to see actual numbers instead of guesses. I have been doing some quick and dirty tests on some new parts and it is nice to know for sure.
there is empiric rule - no thicker then 1/2 of the nozzle
I always went with no more than 80%, that is all going to be changing now.