For what it’s worth, I’ve been using Anti-Seize compound on my leadscrews. It seems many of the recommended products are a little sticky and attract dust and sawdust. I’ve found that a little bit of anti-seize doesn’t seem to have this problem. I have not found it necessary to wipe any bit off my leadscrews of either my MPCNC or Lowrider despite primarily chewing up wood and MDF. The leadscrews also don’t seem to bind up at all.
This product is usually used for vehicle brake parts and similar things. It’s fairly cheap, readily available and a little jar will last you a very long time. Nothing special about the brand in the picture.
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What happened to your poor coupler?
I need to look into this. I holds less dust and stuff that the super lube I use?
My poor couplers get stretched from time to time when I move the Z the wrong way by accident. I either crunch them together or replace them occasionally. It doesn’t seem to affect the operation though. I don’t use endstops dual or otherwise and I usually land the Z/A pipes of the Lowrider on a couple of blocks at the rear of the work surface. That’s the only concern I have with the Lowrider design vs my MPCNC and a Gantry style CNC I built. I just have to park the machine properly each time.
The leadscrew in the picture is in use while the picture is taken. My dust and sawdust control is OK but occasionally I don’t use the shield I made so I can see what’s going on. I’ve had the Anti-Seize on for several months and never cleaned off the leadscrews.
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As far as I know Anti-Seize is not a great lubricant for these types of applications. It has some lubricating properties but is better used on fasteners or when joining parts. It provides even torquing, prevention of galling, easier release of parts and so on. Grease or oils are used when you want to lubricate something that is sliding or rolling.
Additionally I believe that some grades of Anti-Seize could wear out your bushing over time as it usually contains particles. If these practicals are harder than the bushing they will act abrasively.
That being said I have no idea what grade or type of Anti-Seize this is so it could be working great for you, but if people want to try this they should be aware of that some grades might not be the best idea.
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Interesting, and it does make sense.
The simple solution is to 3D print a shield, but might there be a better lube? Graphite? I originally intended on putting the lead screw on the outside of the plate but there is too much stuff there. I think V3 might go back to the 2 plate system, more rigid and a little more room to tidy things up.
I use wax and graphite powder on my table saw moving parts. It’s a pain to make, but I have several lifetimes worth.
I’ve always used just the slightest dab of white lithium grease on both my 3d printer and my MPCNC lead screws. It doesn’t take much.
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I use a generous amount, then wipe it off pretty good. Seems to leave a pretty good film, turns blacks pretty quick and not much sticks.
Never seen that before but found a link,
https://www.asburystore.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=WAX-1STICK
I learned from youtube:
I bet you did… 
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I was wondering when this topic would finally dive into innuendo and double intendre… I’ve been stifling my inner 12 year old since it was started, and I think protective services is on to me…
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All good points. I was looking for something to slightly lubricate dissimilar metals and wouldn’t attract dust. All you ever wanted to know about Antiseize compounds:
https://www.engineersedge.com/material_science/antiseize_compound_application_review_13389.htm
I’ll keep using the stuff I’ve got…
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I would say that some kind of printed shield could work or some sort of bellow, really anything that keeps the major part of dust away. Then some type of grease or PTFE based lube could work.
I’m a fan of Blaster Dry Lube with Teflon, usually available at Lowes. Might be worth a try on the lead screw.