I will start by saying THANK YOU to all your very detailed posts that were available to the public. Some of the comments made that many of you have done helped me do things like get off my butt and fix my 3d printers. Upgrade my 3d printers and disassemble my old and way too heavy but worked, CNC, all steel on bearings. Well I used all the affiliate Amazon quick purchase links provided by RYAN! Thank you Ryan and I got the stuff a day early. So, dont you love sentences that begins with so…lol. So, I build a cabinet for my hot plate 3d printer, ordered parts, disassembled an old cnc and started printing my cnc today. The parts went together perfectly. I had a nice tight and smooth roll on the steel pipe. Congrats to everyone that worked with Ryan or Ryan on that small feat. I will start to include photos after this post. So nice. Love this build. By the way, I followed a few examples on how to mount the 3d printer, level it, prepare it and enclose it. I have some awesome parts popping off of the board at .8 nozzle .3 layers height 30% infill or so in PLA. Next I will plan on printing the parts in ABS and see how it differs from PLA. Anyways that is a topic meant for me to explore due to the face I really only would use ABS plastics in the HVAC industry or I made the supplier refund immediately. Not a single type of plastic would hold up besides ABS. Other so called plastics were actually resin infused and other stuff that looked a lot like asbestos. At least in most cases I only used ABS.
Ah forgot to say. I am going to make an attachment so i can put my bolts into my lathe and trim then with dewalt grinder with a sander plate. I did manage to destroy one of my Harbor Freight special grinders (14$ jobber) inside of 40 min of constant use oops! hahahahah. I was forced to purchase longer than needed bolts due to the fact Home Depo does not stock 1.25 or 1.75 or 2.75. lol. Our Deer Springs store only has bolt stock on the halfs.
Thanks for all the kind words!
Yeah, I am putting serious thought into hardware for all future versions of the machines. Not easy to make it work everywhere, and some places stock odd sizes.
Thats not really your issue. After all this is a DIY things. So with that said. I was looking at the bearing rails last night that I had printed. That is why I wanted to trim things up some. I basically was just saying that that big box stores seem to have stopped providing the more precise bolts. Its all good. I would not worry so much about it. If I was being honest you could have just said purchase a stick of all thread and put a nut on each side. I would have been super happy with that. 
Way cheaper than bolts anyways. And almost as strong. Idea? lol
I do have a box of bolts and I am eager to get to assembling the LR2 but I still have to print a few more parts (most of them) lol. Here are some more pictures of what I printed over night. The endstops, motor holder and additional plate, and the last two bearing holder/guide printed in 13 hours. The two with the bearings are the ones I worked on yesterday to make sure the prints would work out. This is the machine I will be printing all the main pieces mainly bearings. One may notice the calibration cube. If you can see it the one on the right was done at 30 mm/s and the one on right was done at 60mm/s. I turned it down to 25mm/s .3high .8mm nozzle. I got some nice prints coming off of the printer and no blobs on the side of any of my prints.
Two bearings in home printed bearing holder rolling real nice on steel tube. I have more parts printed this morning. I had two failures yesterday through last night. I did not catch them. I have ordered some led lighting for that and will be installing it soon. I also have another cabinet that is ready for sanding and stain. I got to get to it
That’s RED! Digging the painted logos.
Hey Berry, FYI to anyone wondering about the red. It is Amazon Basic PLA Red. Nothing special. It just came out real nice at a slow speed.
I with I were more intentional with my PLA choice. I buy and use black for the most part and always have that and then I have grey when I want variation. So that’s what I used. I have this spool of lime green that I use for test prints since I don’t know if I will every use that for anything.
I guess when I do that lowrider I can get all flashy!
Hey,
@barry99705 @scrounge79 and everyone else.
I printed up my LR2 and it is all printed. The prints came out very nice. When I went to cut up the wood portions I had an issue with things not lining up real nice. So I said hey! The Burly can cut those perfectly. I have several routers but most of all I have one that can fit both machines. So I am now printing up the Burly lol. I chose these colors. Enjoy. @scrounge79, I used black to start out with and to learn to print. I had a few issues with my printers recently. Once my project is complete I plan on printing out replacement pieces and making my frames out of 1 x 2 inch tube metal. I had to change one of the Chinese belts. I had the type that looks like plastic. I have other GT belts. So I switch the belt out and that cured the problem. Next, I had a bed overheat issue. That turned out to be the connector, it was loose ( I saw a burnt spot). So as the tech that I am, I broke off that connector from the board and directly soldered on the wires. problem solved. That printer has now run 20 hours with no issue. A year ago I also changed out the boards to the MKbase 1.4 boards so the printers would be safer than the anet boards. The Marlin catching the overheating item really makes me thankful! Both to the Marlin community and the MakerBase Community I just finished off some more parts over night. They look good and fit together like a glove. I was a bit worried due to the fact that I printed them at a higher layer height then what was suggested. The parts feel strong and fairly ridgid. I may get the pipes cut today. 
Almost forgot to say 11 hours baby. And I will have my Burly fully printed. Now I will have two MPCNC’s the LR2 and the Burly printed and I am gonna start assembling the Burly first then I will work on the LR2 after the new year!
Well they are all printed. All looks good and the parts do infact mesh together as advertised. Definately a good product. Here is the final pic with all the parts stacked. I used a rod to hold the burly z section together. Nice construction on that Ryan! Well engineered.
Well guys! THANKYOU. I just completed my MPCNC here in vegas and I had a successful crown test. I started building the lowrider 2 and did not like how I made the side plates out of wood free hand. Not one bit. So I switched gears and started printing the MPCNC. I do have the dongle and for the European style joystick headed my way in a few weeks. But I can now start working on my true love R/C airplanes. Thanks agin! Everyone! Great community!
Oh and on that topic. I flip and flopped on what boards to use. It became a problem with grbl vs marlin and the version of raspberry pi I wanted to use. in the end I am only gonna use and I have installed
arduino mega 2560
ramps 1.4 hat
the dial screen at the moment but will change to
Future: TFT 32 or 35
Future: joystic-paddle with buttons.
Currently 2 by 4 feet of usable cutting space
1 inch steel pipe instead of conduit so extremely ridig. 1/8 inch walls in pipe.
I printed all the parts. Due to that I had to say thank you by becomming a pateron!