After some time of working on it and collecting all the hardware I finished my lowrider.I collected most of the parts from ebay,exept the tubes where i purchased locally.I wanted to buy from Ryan shop to support ,but the import tax was huge and so I will just donate.
I run on ramps 1.4 ,3 axis setup.The machine useful size is 1.5mx2.5m.I use a router that i had a makita at 27000 rpm 440watts and made some custom fitting to stay vertical.Here are some photos.
I have two main issues:
I get a message "homing failed Printer halted please reset" every time i try to home my lowrider.Basically i get this message even when i have no steppers plug in and only endstops pluged .The marlin i have uploaded is called MPCNC813_GLCD_T8.zip
The Z axis is falling down in one side when i in no power or sometimes when in power and get message printer halted please reset.The machine has 1.5 amps bipolar nema 17.I setup my drv8825 at 0.9*( 1.5amp/2)=0.67 volts.Should i double the pots voltage when i use 2 motors on z axis?The input voltage for ramps i measured around 14.5volts.
So generally exept I have to fix this issues the machine and the engineering behind it is great.One negative is that the machine has not endstops positions built with it.
If any suggestions please tell me!
Ps.My next upgrade would be double z and double x axis
1- It has something to do with the firmware. Homing a non-dual firmware is not going to give you any reasonably accurate home, it can and will be different every time. It really is best to not use it for now.
2-Read through the lowrider instructions it has details on keeping the steppers powered or parking the gantry after your cut.
have you looked at M119? It will help you debug your endstops. I suspect thwy are always triggered. But I wouldn’t bother with them on a CNC machine (dual endstops are a different story, but they aren’t needed on the LR either).
Both sides should fall when it’s powered off. 1.4V is possible if you have your steppers wired in parallel, but you should consider running at 0.7V with them in series instead. The current isn’t the problem though. They should both fall then the motors aren’t enabled. The printer will disable the motors when it halts. I’m assuming you are only seeing faults when you try to home, right?
Smth taht i changed is 10mm belt instead of 6 mm.Should this be a problem?
Jeffeb3,yes i get checked with m119 and the endstops seem to work fine open and triggered when accordingly.Yes it fault when I try to home even when no stepper is plugged on the board.
I get fault sometimes when i connect my usb cable to run it throught repetier host and sometimes randomly(you shall not move!!)when it wants to halt.
I really dont get why dual enstops are not nedded for lr because usually the z and x axis are not parallel to my table(some mm difference).Because i have to manually hold one side not to fall on z axis and then from the controller tell to move z some mm in order to get power not to fall above my workpiece.After its gets power i have to manually square with human error included in squaring.Its really trouble to get it squared without dual endstops…How do you guys square really tell me the secret!
When i turn on the lr should the motors be stiff to move or no?Without any command.Thanks
This is concerning to me. If you’re getting halts when you’re not homing, then does repetier give you a message when it faults? Marlin prints a specific message to the serial port when it halts. This really needs to be fixed, and you have to figure out which error it is first.
No, I don’t think so.
I think the homing failed means it travelled farther than it thinks it should have and it didn’t get a triggered. Probably your bed size in the firmware needs to be increased. So if it’s trying to find the home, and it travels 200mm and doesn’t find it, it thinks there’s something wrong with the endstop switch.
When the machine is off, both Z screws should fall. I let them fall all the way and start them bottomed out. I move the 611 plate all the way to one side, and I have some blocks I clamp to the end of the table. I pull the gantry up against those blocks. That makes the whole thing square. I always start it here. It stays square even without me holding it. Then I power it up, remove the blocks and use Marlin to jog to the workpiece.
The reason dual endstops are less useful on a low rider is because of the size. Getting an MPCNC within 1mm sometimes isn’t enough. Getting the LR within 1mm is very square, because of the huge side lengths.
The firmware you pointed to at the top of the page is not dual endstop firmware. Dual endstop firmware will have 5 endstops in the M119 command. I don’t think Ryan maintains a LR dual endstop firmware. Maybe we should, just because enough people keep doing it.
I think they should be loose until you move them. They should stay solid for a few minutes after the last movement. I think there is a way to add a specially named file to the sdcard that Marlin will execute on boot. If you put G0 X0 Y0 Z0 in it, then it should start energized. Something like start.gcode. let me see if I can find that…
