Lowrider 2 journey

Few minutes back, the delivery guy had a surprise for me.
The 60mm wheels and spacers finally arrived. :slight_smile:

I do wonder, for some obvious (and not obvious) reason, the residue is on the wheel side where it will roll. It sticks out a few millimeters.
Will this cause issues during usage?

I imagine the wheels might wobble when it rolls over the residue.
Did anyone sand these, or do you just ignore it as it might wear off over time?

In case it wasn’t clear, that was satire. I cut the power to my build in case of an emergency. I just have everything plugged into a power strip on the front of the machine. You can always come up with a safer choice. At some point, it is just overkill. Or worse. Sometimes making it more complicated or advanced can make it even more dangerous. If you get down to 0.001% chance of danger, it gets really hard to bring that down without introducing another 0.001% risk.

lol, I feel stupid now :smiley:

Could someone tell me, if the leadnut really needs to be entered from above?
I just did this, but I notice two things:

  1. the screw is locked in the 3D print, I wonder if it is secure enough
  2. the leadnut and idler touch each other.

The idler can still turn, but I imagine it causes friction?

Absolutely. Unless gravity is strange where you live, or you somehow plan to suspend your LR2 upside down

The screws shouldn’t actually be very tight, and the leadscrew nut should be able to wiggle a little bit (But not turn very much at all.) You want gravity to work for you. That nut supports the weight of the gantry. If you screw it in from below, then the screw threads will be supporting the weight of the gantry, which is a bad plan. The screws into the plastic only need to keep the nut from turning, the weight of the gantry will then force the face of the nut (with the barrel sunk into the printed piece!) against the printed piece which then supports that side of the gantry.

The clearance is tiny, but > 0.

There is the slightest bit of wiggle room there. I tightened the screws to “snug” and then backed off 1/2 turn. That bit of movement allows the nut to center on the actual lead screw, and not cause binding if the leadscrew isn’t absolutely centered in the motor coupler. Remember too that the tiny amount of room that the idlers have will have belt tension pulling them away from the nut and towards the motor pulley

Too tight there will cause bad things ™ to happen.


Thanks for the confirmation Dan.

On one side there´s about 1 mm space, on the other side I think there will be just enough space: a fraction of hair. Like you mentioned; the idler might be pulled back once installed. So I will ignore it for now :slight_smile:

I managed to find some time to work on completing the printed parts.
So some pictures, mine will be yellow, to get a creative vibe:)
And yes! I order too much lock nuts :smiley: :smiley: I was in a hurry and it was that cheap I did not notice it.

During install I found it hard to install the motor cover on the Y-plate. I was lucky to find a screwdriver just long enoug to reach the end.

I was also a bit surprised, that the pulley had to be mounted very low on the motor shaft, I previously thought it would be installed on the D shaft to have a good grip. But it seems to be alligned lower then the D shaft. So will have to check that it´s alligned correctly when installing the belt.

Because I opted for Alu flat parts, thickness of those parts are obviously different too. I forgot about this when ordering the needed hardware. So the longest screws did not have enough thread to bolt the nut.

Luckely I have a kit to fix this.

But I ran into another issue :frowning:
the wheelspacers are too thick to fit the bearings properly.
:frowning: I mounted it for now, just to try, but will need to fix this.

Hope I can find some shorter spacers, but at first glance I am unable to find the ones I need. So might need to reorder another set of wheels.

Small update,
my project is paused as I am looking for some replacement spacers to fit the wheels.
It seems that my wheels need 6mm long M8 spacers that I can´t find locally.

For the moment I can only find some 3mm nylon spacers that might do the job. But the cost is as much as ordering another set of wheels. So I am on the edge of buying other wheels instead.

I also wanted to start the construction of my table, but came to 2 conclusions:

  • The initial plan was to make a torsion box. But looking at some other users their pictures, I stumbled on the fact that I wanted to make the upstanding sidewalls 14 cm heigh, that will cause issues as there´s only about 10cm space on the Y plates.
    So would need to redesign…

  • My workspace just got smaller again due to storage for renovation. So instead of a “solid” workbench I think it might be best to make something I can easily move or stow away.

And it must be coincidence, but I stumbled on a promotion in my local DIY shop. For these sawhorses:

I think that this would be an interesting alternative for my table, as it is quick to dis-/assemble and easy to stow it away. And I can easily add a full sheet onto it if needed!
Only need to think on how I can mount the belts easily…

Last night I quickly mounted the 3D parts on the Z plate. Hope the screws on the bottom will not be in the way when operating.

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The screw heads should be ok.

Can you print the spacers?

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Hmm, that´s an interesting idea.
But wouldn´t they wear out quickly due to friction?
I imagine that the weight of the Z would cause friction, thus slowly grinding the PLA spacer?

It looks from an earlier photo that metal spacers came with the wheels. Can you cut/grind down those to the right length?

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The spacers should not touch the moving parts. That’s the bearing’s job. The spacers should fit over the axle tightly, and touch only the axle and the center part of the bearing that moves with the axle. It should not touch the moving part of the bearing, nor the outside edge of the wheel, so there should be zero friction in regular operation.


To be honest, that was my initial idea too. However I do not own a belt sander for such metal work, so would need to use the angle grinder.
But this scare´s the **** out of me, I could loose a finger :smiley: So for me that´s a no-go :blush:

Thanks for the insights Dan. I appreciate you guys for thinking with me.

I imagined that when there would be a slight misalignment the spacers could be turning around too. But you´re right, if it is clamped tight enough it should work.
I might give it a go.

Some good news is that I managed to get a set of sawhorses for the easy removable table.

I went with another brand instead of toughbuilt simply because the other brand is wider and longer. Now I got to make the decision if I would make a full sheet table immediately, or just start small like I initially planned.

It seems that Michael had the same idea in the past so I can get some ideas from his project :smiley:

Love this forum!

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The yellow and brushed metal feel is super nice. Looks very professional.

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Thanks, it looks indeed very Pro :smiley:

While I can think of a couple of ways to arrange work holding so my fingers weren’t at risk, angle grinder would probably not be my first choice either, although maybe with a coarse flap sanding wheel…

Ultimately your safety is your responsibility since you’re the one who lives with the consequences of any mishaps. Congratulations on holding to your preference to do what feels safe for your situation.

So, my project came to a full stop because they claimed my workspace for storage while they are renovating the house.

I did not want to mess around with my spacers, or loose a finger. I decided to order a new set. They are a bit larger, but according to the FAQ within tolerances.
I expect them to run out quickly because of 82A hardness, but it´s not like it will do that many miles soon.

When I tested them, they fit perfectly with my spacers and bearings. Now I need to find a purpose for the spare wheels :slight_smile:

I also started to see for a router. And I am doubting between either an original Makita or the Katsu clone. That´s like 60€ versus 230€.

The Soft start and Load based RPM will probably make a huge difference for a beginner like me, but on the other hand I can buy a lot of gear with the savings. Ahhh decisions… :smiley:

Wow! The Makita RT0701C here retails at Home Depot for $129CAD.(About 87€)

I’ve got the $60 clone from Harbor Freight in December and it’s worked fine for me but it sees fairly light use. I bought the $10 warranty and assume the brushes will burn out at some point but they haven’t yet.

Wow, 87 that´s cheap. But I expect it will be without Tax?

And to be correct; I need to tell details😊

(prices excl shipping, including tax, updated day prices)

  • Makita 117€

  • Katsu 50€

Set: Router, plunge base, tilting base, plus 2 or 3 bits

  • Makita 209€

  • Katsu 80€

Set: Router, plunge base, tilting base, of center base, no bits

  • Makita 235€

  • Katsu 103€ (plus 2 bits)

If I would buy a new router, I would let go of my older one, so the plunge base would be a requirement to have. I´ve been reading that most people seem to be happy with a Katsu router (some exceptions aside), however the additional parts seem to be of lesser quality.

So it´s becoming either a gamble with Katsu and hope I have a decent base, or just play safe and buy a Makita. And when I take the Makita, there´s the question of taking the of center base, I have never used yet.:slight_smile:

Aside from the brushes, do you think you´re missing out on the soft start or load corrected RPM?

Soft start doesn’t really matter as you are starting cutting air unless you are turning on the vac with the same switch and are worried about tripping breakers. I’ve never had a router with RPM correction so I don’t know what I’m missing there. I suspect that my lowrider would start skipping steps before I bogged down the endmill but I could be wrong on that.

I’m sure the Makita is a better router, I just found the clone to be good enough for my needs. Alsoyou are in Europe so I know that in many counties easy returns are not the norm. Here in the US you can buy a cheap angle grinder at HF for $10 with a $5 warranty run it non stop for a week cutting concrete and rebar and bring back the melted, concrete encrusted carcass for a full exchange. If I couldn’t do that I could do that I would go with the better built Makita.

Good point on the skipping steps idea. Something to take into consideration when making my decision.

I think the Soft-start and RPM correction would be mostly “important” when not using it in the LR2. For my case I plan on using it often with a tilted base.

We do have some good return policies in Europe, but not the way you describe it:-)
In my case I will not be buying it in the local shop as there´s a steep difference in pricing. Last time I checked it would cost me about 100 euros more compared to an online shop.

But that means warranty will be dodgy as it depends on the online seller. Most of them point directly to Makita, but I am sure Makita will point to the reseller…

Oh well… I´ll take some time to think about it before making a decision in Katsu vs Makita.