@KL2001, I didn’t come across any recommendations. Just shared some info on what I did, what I learnt, and clips showing how I wired/built my LR3 @ Purple-black-rainbow LR3 🤷♂️ , build video @ https://youtu.be/FJ7nYio8oOE - #19 by azab2c hope that helps with your build!
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As I’m looking at the Core wiring again, I’m trying to figure out how I want to handle a touchplate.
I see here, there is a Dupont connector - Do people then make a custom cable to plug in touchplates for easy swapping? Is this too complicated and it works better to just hardwire it?
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After that picture, I actually just put the actual touch plate wire in there from the kit. I was looking at it today, a plug might have been cool. I use it a lot but have not come up with anything else.
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Work has been busy, but I’m back at it and am on the gantry/screen wiring. Do people generally lengthen the screen wires, or just use the screen sitting on the gantry/electronics box? I’m thinking it might be nice to have it as a short pendant, especially if I read the new firmware update that allows the touchscreen to work more reliably for jogging.
I don’t move mine off the top very often. I am about to offer a wireless option if you are interested. Search for “headless” to join that discussion.
If you mean this one: Headless SKR Pro Info
I have been following along.
Over at the electronic bench, I’m ready!
I bought a half dozen esp01 boards from AliExpress a few years ago. I also have 3 D1 minis on hand, but the pin out won’t match, even if they offer more flash space.
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Sweet!
I’m back at it and working on electronics. I’m looking at this picture:
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I can’t seem to figure out the LCD cable. No matter how I route them they seem to be too short to have the knob within reach. Is this just a case of Ryan being able to route wires like he packs shipping boxes - magically?
I have a feeling this might be one of the first areas I change, but wanted to build it “stock” to learn before changing it. Perhaps in conjunction with a wireless addition.
Other than that, I desoldered the homing pins, and powered the board up. everything seems to work electrically, next step is to wire it to the motors and switches, and find a place to set this all up for testing - I could no longer utilize the living room.
Excited to get this finished by spring and then I can move it to the garage and try some larger projects.
I have it turned 90 degress now facing forward. I could not get the extra long LCD cables anymore.
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I did some tinkering on the living room floor in Dec and January, but I needed to figure out at least a temporary table solution. With that figured out, I’m back at it.
Only issue I’m seeing right now is that with all the unplugging and moving, I seem to have broken my end-stops that were working the last time I had everything hooked up. Things are looking good, so now I’m terrified that there is a grub screw that I missed with threadlocker! Hopefully will get the end-stops figured out and will be cutting my strut plates soon.
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Almost there! You can read the end stop states by typing M119 in the terminal or if it is connected to your pc. They should all read “triggered” except for the touch plate that one is open. Maybe this helps to figure out the end stop problem.
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Your table doesn’t look long enough to cut your struts?
Deleted post, because I posted to wrong thread.
But I noticed you have the small power supply- how are you routing the extension cable to the power supply so it does not get caught up?
Is that a 12v or 24v supply?
That’s exactly what I did and resolved the issue… sometime between testing and labelling I swapped my Y and Z endstop wires. I know it was a labelling issue because both sides were swapped the same way. Except for the cramped quarters, it was an easy fix.
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@srcnet Correct, I’m hoping to be able to cut on the diagonal, or I will pin and move the stock. Since I don’t currently have a vehicle that can move large amounts of wood, I am going with what was laying around to try to make progress. If it becomes an Issue, I guess I’ll be building my permanent table sooner than I expected.
@Anthony0281 It is the 12V that came in the LR3 kit. Right now it is laying across the table, as you can see, I haven’t finished up the wiring. I’ve debated running it all inside the Gantry, including a plug for the router and the power supply. Then having that come off the side with the Vacuum Hose.
Thanks, you helped me a lot.
I will have to run a power cable to router and it will then have to run back and forth with xy gantry.
I am running a 24v 350w power supply which I have at half way point, and will run a cable chain setup for both x, and y with router power and board power, to fold over as it goes to rear along y, and lay down as it comes forward. Weird, I know, but that’s how I roll.
I hope it all works for you, it is looking good.
Table is not easy, mine is big for almost full sheet cuts, I can slide a full sheet on to the spoil board.
I don’t have the space for a full sheet table all the time - hoping to design something that can break down to store flat, and be setup quickly for either half sheet or full sheet.
I just realized, if you look above at @vicious1’s build from the tutorial, he’s doing similar - power supply inside, with the cord coming out the side. He would have to confirm how that works out for him.
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Works great and keeps things out of the way.
40W is probably overkill by a long shot.
That was really the only 24volt one at the time.
I was thinking it was going to draw more current with the 5 motors, drawing a max of 2 amps each. I
Know they probably won’t draw all at the same time, but if I am pushing it hard, I would rather have more than enough. Or have I calculated wrong? 24v x (5x2Amp)=240w.
Yes, I saw how it is run in the docs, I wasn’t sure if that was a big enough power supply, as I made a big machine, and wanted it to be good when running 24v, so that it did not run out of grunt, running just 12 volts.
Anyway, we are building with a great design, and setting up for the size of machine we want,
I think it will be great in the end, a bit of money spent on it, luckily I got bench wood free.
I have had fun building it, I hope my printed YZ plates stand up to the rest of the build.
Thanks once again.
Anthony0281.
That’s not really how you should be calculating power used by the stepper motors.
Each winding of the motor can take up to 2A max, but the driver itself is switching on and off like a buck converter to regulate that current. If your stepper has 2 ohms of phase resistance, it will have an average of 4V across it while it’s holding position. If you have a 24V supply then your stepper driver will be giving it 24V ~20% of the time and 0V ~80% of the time to average 4V out (really rough numbers because it gets complicated to do accurately). The stepper in question there would be using a max of 4W in each coil under that circumstance. I’m not actually sure if the stepper will ever see max current in both coils, but as a worst case you could probably assume so and say 8W per stepper.
That’s a really rough approximation, but should hopefully get you an idea of where to land, power supply wise. The 40W that Ryan suggest sounds logical, to me.
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