Lowrider build advise

Hello cnc world,
I’m als looking to build my lowrider as I’m always bin fascinated by cnc router I bin looking to buy a Xcarve but I find them to expensive and small :slight_smile: I’m looking to build a full sheet table 2440x1220 mm plans are being drafted as I speak :slight_smile: maby I also make a water tray for plasma who knows :stuck_out_tongue:

I have some questions for you guys I have d found a beter forum as here and I’m bin here for a few weeks I just registered my self to join the community :stuck_out_tongue:

My questions are
1 tool change how dos that go take the router out its holder or just race the gentry, and if you do take it out what about the makita? i know most of you use a deWalt 611

2 I have a colido Diy 3d printer whits I have not printed a lot whit becose I have issues leveling the bed…

  • wold this printer be able to print the parts as it has no heated bed .
    -what filemant whold be best to print the part?
    Or Sud I just get my self a ender 3 pro?

I hope you guys can shed some light on this :smile:
I have great ideas for this build and projects to do :stuck_out_tongue:
I even have a idea to to quick disconnect the belts so when I don’t use the lw I dot hit the belts and can use the table… But I keep you guys in the loop when the build starts

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You raise the gantry, yes. The Makita is out of its housing and in the tool holder. It has a pretty good stick out. No issue with changing tools.

Some folks have built some quick change adaptors to be able to easily pull of the router and replace tools.

It really isn’t complicated to change tools. You just need to understand how homing and work offsets are done with the code. A lot of folks just do two or three jobs as required. They finish one, change tool and then do the next one. I have EstlCAM set up for a tool change routine within a job that works pretty well. It’s a bit hard to remember all the steps, especially since one of those is touching off the tool to get the height correct.

In principle, you should be able to make it work. Keep trying to get the bed level. Normal PLA is recommended. You just need to ensure that you have the proper infill for the parts, which can go from 55% to 65%.

Get your conduit/tubing size sorted out. Then print out one of the bearing holders. It’s a flat part with relatively little complications and would give you an idea of how calibrated your printer is for correct sizing. This part from the appropriately sized collection on thingiverse.

image

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Damm that fast :stuck_out_tongue:
Thanks for the reply so fast I probly have tons more questions

Something when wrong here internet is not the best where I’m at now

Soon when il be home IL order my filement and get that bloody printer to work :stuck_out_tongue: what brand would you suggest or is any oke I never when past my 1kg filement that came whit the printer
And order the kit from Ryan whit out the nuts bolts to save some on the shipping kosts

About dual en stops I bin reading here it’s now possible to do it whit a mini rambo to or am I mis reading things

Andy

You can’t do dual endstops on two axis with the mini rambo. It only has 4 drivers. The mini rambo is a good controller for the low rider though, you can get the series wiring kit from Ryan.

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The Amazon Hatch box is fairly consistent and generally available. If you do Amazon it is very easy to order and recieve. I have started using Matter Hackers because they have a great selection and seem reliable.

No need for any special PLA, just something of good quality.

Maby I shut of mensent I’m from Holland :face_with_hand_over_mouth: so I don’t have Amazon to source supplies

And I stil think of getting the mini rambo as endstops are not realy needed, I have non on my 3018 China cnc

Andy

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Prusa’s filament is excellent.