Would swapping any troublesome boards to Normally Open help? It mentions sustained voltages. On the SKR that is a very easy fix to flash a new firmware.
The Pro is set to end production next month. I do have a feeling all the other boards are set up similar, though.
The io pins connected to the endstop triggers are 5V tolerant (or VDD+3.6V) according to table 7
More info:
STM32 and 5 volt environment
When Open drain with external pull up 5V is used
⢠Hi-Z behaves High output, external pull up will define the output voltage (5V).
I donât have issues with endstops not triggering on mks boards that also have a STM32 mcu. The endstop io pins are set to 5V. I donât have a skr board to experiment with, but in looking at the schematics for both boards, it appears that bypassing the led by connecting to ground through a 0.1uf cap would raise the io pin to 5V.
Iâm having the same endstop error. Iâm a laymen when it comes to basically this entire discussion. Iâve successfully done the crown test, but am unable to home due to non functional end stops. Iâm hoping I just have the ground and signal wires flipped and that will solve the problem. If itâs not the solution, can someone post a more laymenâs guide to solving this problem with pictures.
Ground and signal wires are the same for endstops. Can you make your own post and post pictures of your electronics and endstops? It is probably an easy fix.
I think I may be having the same problem. Z1 Max works. Z2, Y1 and Y2 are always reported as open by M119 regardless of the switch position. Can I provide any additional info? I may have a have some resistors of an appropriate value. Iâll have to look.
Steve
What board, what firmware, where did you get it, what endstops, and can you show us a picture of how you have them plugged in on both ends, the board and the endstops.
My bad. I mis-read the line âAll the pre-compiled firmware has this disabled so you will need to bend the pins out of the way.â to mean as it disabled in firmware, you will not need to bend⌠Read the words on the page! Z is now working. The reason that my Z1 worked correctly is there was no driver in the 6th position so that âpin was bentâ.
Would one of you guys mind taking a look here to see if the Octopus is any better in terms of the endstop situation? I am not sure I understand it fully. BIGTREETECH-OCTOPUS-V1.0/BIGTREETECH Octopus.pdf at master ¡ bigtreetech/BIGTREETECH-OCTOPUS-V1.0 ¡ GitHub
Still going back and forth with Biqu, not sure what to do yet. No LEDâs so it should be more stable?
Sorry, I just saw your post/question. Based on that schematic, the endstops should work better. Nothing is running in parallel, eâŚg, LED, so when the endstop switch is open the voltage at DIAGx is the full VCC and when closed the voltage should be GND.
Cool, thank you! I have not even started testing the board I have here yet. That does bring me some more incentive to do so.
Hello, maybe you should switch the 2 end switch cables on the board.
I noticed an issue with homing but I never really used the home feature I guess. Since I have my SKR Pro removed from my Lowrider while I test the JackPot that I just received I decided to add the 1.5K resistors while itâs on the bench. I hope this is correct including a picture. I donât think Iâd miss the homing feature anyway, but might as well fix it while itâs out of the router.
Man I would be lost without the homing feature. Love the auto level/square since I cant seem to set stops in exactly the same place on both sides LOL.
How are you able to run an LR3 without them?
To be honest Itâs been awhile and I have just now been able to get back to the Lowrider but I usually set home in my Cut files to the center of the workspace, which always changes. I think I noticed back at the beginning of the build that the Home switches were not working properly and after confirming everything was plugged in properly. Now that I have made the changes with the 1.5K resistors I will retest this afternoon and give and update. Maybe I will start taking advantage of the homing as well.
If you use estlcam and Ryanâs start G code everything works great. I home the machine first thing. then I move it to where I want x0y0 to be for the job. Then once I start the job it will probe the top of the work piece. Really a nice setup and holds everything square and level. Thatâs if you took the time to do the X gantry leveling and the squaring the machine.
Yes I will try that. BTW, just verified that all axis are homing now with the added 1.k resistors with the SKR Pro! This is why I built the Lowrider 3 and parts from V1 Engineering because of this forum!
So this new setup gets us from 1.7 to 2.2V but donât we want to be above 2.3? So a 1K resistor would have been a better solution to get us to nearly 2.4V??
I was thinking it had something to do with the LED voltage, but my crude Web test circuit claims not much voltage difference (I havenât done circuit analysis in 20 yearsâŚdonât judge me)
Maybe they figured âclose enoughâ or had an overstock of 1.7K resistors they just couldnât get rid of?
