LowRider v3 - LR3 control box case for SKR Pro 1.2 with TFT35 E3 (based on V1’s Blank Case CAD files)

Update June 7, 2022: Here’s a link to the free STL files: Printables

Visit my ongoing build thread for info on this:

LR3 control box case for SKR Pro 1.2 with TFT35 E3 — based on V1’s Blank Case CAD files

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Got the new SKR case posted on Printables!

LR3 control box case for SKR Pro 1.2 with TFT35 E3 — based on V1’s Blank Case CAD files

Here’s a link to the free STL files: Printables

Plus new video:

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Very nice. Looks like a few minor tweaks and you could do it in sheet metal with a brake. (In case you want to make lots of them :grinning:)

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NEW (as of June 10, 2022) support for those with ¼" thick struts. The original base has an attachment rail on the back that is sized for struts cut from 1/8" thick hardboard. What about those who cut their struts from ¼" plywood? There is now an alternate base for that too.

UPDATE June 21, 2022 - new feature to face TFT toward either X or Y

Note: there is now a revised edition of this, which can have the TFT face either way, without reprinting any part or printing any additional parts. Access the new remix here .

UPDATE July 7, 2022 - “Low Fat” Base option

What’s this “Low Fat” thing? This is my version of a brainchild of aaron GitHub on the V1 Engineering forum. It’s a more efficient version of the base with some “fat” trimmed off. It maintains thickness and strength where needed, but saves 33% of the plastic and shaves 25% off the print time. It also has a new version of hanging bracket, inspired by the work of Dan @SupraGuy on the V1 Engineering forum. This hanging bracket is split in two so it can accommodate your temporary struts while you’re starting out with your LowRider v3, and then graduate to your permanent struts once you get them cut and installed. I’m offering both the original base (v 1.2) and the new one (1.3.2) so you get to choose. And both are available for 1/8" thick struts or ¼" thick struts.

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IMPORTANT REMINDER:

Mirror base and lid in your slicer if you plan to mount your box on the “left” (x-min) side of your LowRider v3 table. This version is designed for mounting on the “right” (x-max) side.

Hi Doug, nice work, thanks!

I wonder if there would be room to install an emergency button somewhere on the lid next to the display?

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The “box” kind of e-stop that has its internals unto itself could probably be attached to the lid. I doubt that the kind that has its internals within some other case (and only the button showing outside) would work because I tend to doubt there is enough clearance inside the control box. As ample as I tried to make the control box remix, I did not have an E-stop button in mind, at least not the kind that hides its internals inside the control box.

Here’s an x-ray view showing the measured distance from the top of the PCB to the inside top of the control box. And remember, there are drivers and a lot of tall stuff sticking up from the PCB, so there is not nearly this much actual room:

Thanks for the X ray view:)
I just checked my emergency button, it’s a 3 lines 600 volt capable button, that needs to be mounted in an enclosure. But it needs a full depth of 50mm.

So although it would make sense to add it next to the display, this might be difficult.

When tinkering I came to the conclusion that, placing it next to the display, makes sense in a user flow operating the machine, but, since I am planning to mount the power supply on the other side I could better keep all 240 volt lines (for router and SKR) close to each other, thus the button too:)

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Nice deign. I love it. Has anyone tested to see if the flat top can hold a RPI and a buck yet without a display hood.
That would seal the deal for me. I am going headless so a pie is mandatory. I may see if I can mod it, but not that good at sizing and orienting yet in cad…

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The top would be easy for me to remix to make it not have any hole in it for the TFT holder. The original design had little “horn like” protrusions so that a control dongle on a long cable could be rested on the control box lid when not in use. The control dongle is basically a BigTreeTech TFT35 in a printed case.

Are you thinking for the RPI and buck to be held in place (as opposed to portable like a dongle)? If you can post a napkin sketch of what you’re thinking, I’d be happy to do a remix for it.