Hi, everyone, first of all, I’d like to thank Ryan for the hard work of designing this kit.
New here, I’m a wood lover and hobby nutter in general, have 2 3D printers and a self-built router table, also a saw table too, and for ages, I’ve been wandering around about building a CNC but I lack the electronics knowledge base…my elder brother will help on that, he’s a techy nutter and likes playing on PC and Raspberry so this shouldn’t be too much of a trouble.
Well here’s what I have done so far…in the next few weeks I’ll be updating my build as I go along with it.
At the same time, I’ll be asking for help for sure…lol
Meanwhile, I’d like to thank this community for the help given.
Hope Ryan doesn’t offend for this post, but this part is asking for a remodel to house the nuts as holding them while tightening the screws is quite a challenge… …I offer myself to do so if you send me a Fusion360 compatible file.
The rest of the machine is a mystery design until you put it all together…a great job.
That’s how I’ve done it, but I think having the piece designed to house the nut would a top of the top…might give it a go myself…although I hate going on fusion through the mesh to BRep option…it’s just a small improvement and to be honest I don’t think it’s something I will be adjusting everyday I use it
The trouble is, the metric nuts are a lot bigger. The primo dealt with this the right way, either giving enough room for a docker or requiring metric hardware, but only one size.
I’m not comlaining at all, happy with the design job done on this…just thinking out loud…lol…in any case I might give it a go myself…just for the pleasure to do so !!!
Back to the point of building this machine I have a few serious questions need to be answered by those with experience both on electronics and CNC machines.
Regarding electronics I’d like to understand if end-stops are or not needed, I’ve seen a few videos where people install them to self lower and square axis, but not sure if they are really needed. Secondly I’d like to know which board and motor controllers etc are needed so I can source them somewhere close to my location. I’d like to stick to OEM parameters or design intention to keep this simple at the moment, but would like to have the chance to tweak it later on if in need, so what are your thoughts on simplicity and cost effective?
This week will finally have the pulleys and belt…so might be able to move forward a bit !!!
You do not need endstops. I’ve never had them on my machine. The Rambo is a great board. It has 5 drivers so you can try auto squaring later. The mini rambo only has 4 so it can’t auto square both double axis on the Low Rider. If you buy it from Ryan, it will come flashed.
The motors are pretty much commodities, but make sure they are nema 17, have enough torque, and are 1.8 degree steps. There is a Low Rider parts page in the docs with links to example products.
Nice, don’t get overwhelmed with electronics, super easy if you follow the guide, only thing that might be tricky are the cables in series, they got a decent schematic. Other then that lookin good! Got another 2 weeks where I’m at, then I get to go back and play with mine again.
Functionally, the SKR pro will cut just the same as the rambo. The SKR comes with a touch screen TFT screen, and the drivers are TMC2209. The SKR is 32 bit. But that doesn’t really matter in a controller. They are both good.
Jeff in your opinion which one should I go for?..need some advice on this as my brother knows Rasps very well but I want to make it easy for him to set up and for me to run…after some reading it looks like the Rambo is the ultimate thing, Am I right? Re TFT screen, would be a plus…but I’m sure the Rambo can take one too?
Cheers and thanks for your patience on this…I’m completely lost.
EDITED: Call me stupid or blind…it clearly shows 1.2mm but my eyes and brain kept reading 12mm…lol…so it’s a no way…I’ll go down the MDF-DM route !!! lol
Think I’ll be ordering a couple of Y Plates 1.2mm thick…lasercut…I thought they would be more expensive…just 37.84 both !!! !
The rambo is still king around here. The Skr Pro is promising, but it is new, so I don’t know yet what kind of issues we’ll have.
I believe we can use the TFT with the Rambo, but AFAIK, no one has tried.
As for ordering the plates from a store like that, those files are copyrighted non commercial, so you should get permission from @vicious1. I forget if he has a strong opinion on the plates, or just the printed parts. More info here:
If you could get a bulk order going, that would be great, but you should talk to Ryan first. He made these files and he pays to keep the lights on around here.
What do you think of this router…I have one on my home-made routing table and i’m happy with it…it’s probably a copy of the Makita but at a very affordable price…should I use for the LR2?
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You can definitely attach the tft in “Marlin mode”, ehich acts like the older screen. But you should also be able to attach it to the uart. Except I think our firnware has that uart turned off, so it would need to be reflashed.
Ok, as I haven’t got much space anymore inside our flat, need to re-think things a bit, the idea I’ve come up with is to give a multipurpose use to our outdoor table… will be making adding a new 16mm MDF top to it, and then add another top on top of this board made of Plywood which will be simply laid on the MDF board with side skirts adjusted to make it a tight fit…hope this explanation makes sense to all of you
Will sure need to reinforce the legs, but that won’t be a problem.
for this post, but this part is asking for a remodel to house the nuts as holding them while tightening the screws is quite a challenge… 
…I offer myself to do so if you send me a Fusion360 compatible file.
!
