Lowrider2 none of the bin files work

Nope, still no luck. But the good news is that Ryan now has the skr pro 1.2 , lcd and 2209s preflashed in stock now, so I just bought it. This will be my 3rd board now, I hope it works.

OK, So all the parts have turned up. So this one is supposidly all done ready to go in the CNC machine. But.
No instructions at all, can someone point me in the direction of the instructions for this. It skr pro 1.2, TMC 2209, and a bigtree tft 35 screen.
I don’t want to mess this one up.

https://docs.v1engineering.com/electronics/skrpro/

Since it is from Ryan, I would try wiring it up first. Booting it and see if it is already flashed. I bet the screen is. I bet the skr is flashed, but not for the low rider.

New firmware for the skr can be found at MarlinBuilder releases. There is a version code like v513D. The letter stands for which machine. D is mpcnc dual. Either L or DL is for the low rider. S is MPCNC serial.

Thanks.
A couple of questions.
1: There are 2 power feeds, motor power and power. What do they connect to, what is the voltage, do they both connect to 24v.
2: In the diagrams there are 6 TMC drivers, I have only 5 in the kit, but I am pretty sure it only needs 5 so which one do I not put in, am guessing ther one on the top right.
3: I thought that there were 2 stops for the Z, as there are two motors, I see labeled in the diagramms, x1,x2,y1,y2 stops, but no z stops.

1-If you bought the kit from me it comes with a 12v supply, if you have 24 use that. The board is tolerant of a wide range of voltages.
2-Depends on what you are doing with the board, XYZE0E1, is usual.
3-The LR does not come with stops as most do not use them. If you are doing the Dual LR variation, you will need a few extra parts. I have not done this, so I do not really have any recommendations.

1: There are 2 power feeds, motor power and power. What do they connect to, what is the voltage, do they both connect to 24v.

Power goes everything but the motors. The SKR pro can handle power inputs to both connections in the range of 12V to 24V (according to the specifications) Power and Motor Power can be hooked up to separate power supplies (at different voltages), but most MPCNC users feed both power and motor power 12V from the same power supply by jumpering between the two connections. You need 6A or better power supply if use the same power supply for both. Using a 24V power supply will give you more torque at higher speeds, but for most uses, this is not necessary.

2: In the diagrams there are 6 TMC drivers, I have only 5 in the kit, but I am pretty sure it only needs 5 so which one do I not put in, am guessing ther one on the top right.

In the standard pinout diagram found here, the E2 driver, which is the one on the upper right, is the one left empty. The LowRider only needs 5 drivers.

3: I thought that there were 2 stops for the Z, as there are two motors, I see labeled in the diagramms, x1,x2,y1,y2 stops, but no z stops.
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In the pinout diagram I list above have the endstop connections mislabeled (or at least alternately labeled). The E0, E1, E2 should be X+, Y+ and Z+ which is the max endstops for each axis.

image

According to a post by Jeffeb3 (I don’t have the SKR Pro board), the wiring for the LowRider should be:

Xmin: X
Ymin: Y1
Yman: Y2
Zmax: Z1
Xmax: Z2
Zmin: Z G38 probe

Hi Ryan, yes I did buy form you, suposidly rhe complete kit pre flashed for the lowrider 2? And no it did not come with a power unit, but I have a 24v one and a 12volt one. So I will use the 24volt and run that power to both the power and the motors power.

So It seems that most people are not using the end stops at all, they are sugesting lining up the x and y before turning on the machine, and then it is set. I am ok with this if thats the way to go.
According to the lowrider write up, xmin goes to x- ymin to y- and y2min to e1, so is that completely wrong?
I have not made any max stops at all, didn’t realise that was a thing. And what is a G38 probe? Is it something you connect to the router like a distance sensor?

By the way, also, I bought the complete kit from you for all the hardware too, but this was a while ago now, I started with the skr1.3 and tmc5160. Couldn’t get it to work, so I bought a TMC Turbo, that I also could not get to go, so on this chat (you will see previous) I was told, by the finished jkit from Ryan and you just plug it in. So That is what I have done, this is the third board and second set of drivers, and it is far from just plugging it in. That is why I am now on the tmc 2209 and skr 1.2pro. If this is stil the wrong configuration I do still have all the other boards.
This is my first time on a giant project like this, all the hardware is done and has been for over a year, I have a giant table all level and ready to go with all the stepppers etc, just need to get the electronics working.

Yes it did/does for the normal suggested LR configuration, not the Dual LR.

Yes. Pretty easy to get accurate with long axes, and fixed hard stops.

No endstops unless you are venturing into the Dual setup.

Again, only for dual. Disregard everything you are seeing in the Dual section of the instructions.

What else are you needing to do other than plugging it in? I have flashed it, just plug it in and it is ready. All the other boards you bought are discount overstock boards that all say not standard supported boards. They were a deep discount from the manufacturer and only sold in the miscellaneous section of the shop and not offered with the kits. I have done my best to make this extremely clear. I am only offering them because they are like $5, people around here are making all sorts of things and love having cheap boards!

Just to be clear, this is a build it yourself extremely DIY project, even when fully assembled and ready to run you will need to put in work with each project. Making the gcode, fixing the material, lots to learn. We are here to help so please be kind and we will help as best as we can.

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When using a dual-endstop version of the LowRider, the machine homes up to get the axis square. But most people also want a touch plate in order to set the Z height relative to the stock (typically set to the top of the stock). Since the homing command is taken (by homing up), and alternate g-code command is used (G38). If you are not going to use dual endstops, then you can ignore the G38 and simply home Z (which will home down). I believe for the serial version of the LowRider firmware, the touch plate connects to Z-min.

Touch plates are easy to make, cheap on ebay and Amazon, and Ryan sells one in his store. It is just a clip and a plate of known thickness that completes a connection when the bit touches the plate.

OK Got it thanks, so I can just plug this one in and forget the end stops, very exciting, I will be on that first thing tommorrow.
So am I right in saying that this is the firmware that is on this board: /V1EngineeringInc/MarlinBuilder/releases/download/513/V1CNC_SkrPro_DualLR_2209-2.0.9.2.zip

or this one /v1EngineeringInc/MarlinBuilder/releases/download/513/V1CNC_SkrPro_2209-2.0.9.2.zip

It comes with the one without the “DualLR” in the name (the Dual is referring to dual end stops).

When you turn it on it tells you what is one it.

Hi, Ryan.
When you say it should tell you what it is when I switch it on.
Well nothing comes up on the display at all. All I have plugged in, is the Board, the 2 powers and the three cables from the display to the board as instructed. The power comes on the display, but nothing else. Do I have to flash the display?

No you should not have to. Months back I sent one batch of boards out not flashed, when did you buy your board? Even if you did have to flash it is as easy as loading a file on the memory card and restarting it.

Please upload some pictures of your connections.

To be clear, even if I did not flash them…they are preflashed from the factory and work. Both SKR and Screen. I believe you have it plugged in wrong.

If the bags were open when you got it , that means I flashed and tested it, factory sealed…factory firmware.

Id say you did it as the three plugs were already pluged into the display. It is pretty dificult to do it wrong?

Here are some pics, is it correct?