I’m located in the EU (Sweden) and have a Makita RT0700 router with a 6 and 8 mm collet, and are looking for end mills. It will be expensive to get a 1/8” collet (50-70 USD with shipping and tax). Some options:
Buy Ryan’s 1/8” collet and 10x 1/8” end mills (to try to compensate for the high shipping and tax). Price including shipping and tax: 130 USD
Buy 3-4x quality end mills in 6 or 8 mm sizes in the EU. Price: 120 USD
Buy 10x cheap 6 or 8 mm End mills from China. Price: 40 USD
The prices are approximations.
The main question is if I ”need” to use 1/8” single flute end mills, or if I can/should use 6 or 8 mm single/double end mills instead?
I use this. I have no idea about the runout and it does add some length which is not good. But it also seems to be working quite well. So I claim it to be good enough.
Edit. Obviously it needs to be shortened so that the er11 collet is right against the Makita collet
Of the three, it seems like the one from elaire is the best, and most expensive, option. It is still 40-65 USD for a 1/8” collar. This is the same as Ryan sells right?
The main question remains:
How much better is it to use 1/8” instead of 6 or 8 mm? Will a large Lowrider 2 with Makita RT0700 be able to handle such a large bit?
if you have a hard time accessing 1/8" bits, then use metric endmills.
This CNC machine was originally designed in the US and as such tends to use a lot of US components. If I lived outside of the US, I wouldn’t hesitate to use whatever local materials I could source that fit.
You shouldn’t have any issue using metric end mills on the machine. Just be sure and put the appropriate specs into your CAM software so it knows the size of the end mill you’re using.
I wouldn’t bother with trying to source a 1/8" collet.
I would buy the cheaper end mills at first. You’re going to make mistakes and it’s going to ruin a few fairly quickly. When you get to where you’re burning up end mills because of use and not mistakes, then look at getting the nicer quality end mills.
I would recommend trying to find single fluted end mills. Those tend to work better at the faster RPMs most of our routers are running. I’m not sure, but if your makita supports variable RPMs, then you can probably use 2-fluted end mills. I wouldn’t get any end mills with more flutes than that…
It is both a matter of imperical/metic, but maybe more importantly about the size.
1/4” and 6 mm is similar in size, and much larger than 1/8” or 3 mm.
What is the reason for the general recommendation of 1/8” single flute above 1/4” single flute?
Is it due to:
Price? (1/8” is much cheaper)
No technical benifit? (1/8” can do everything a 1/4” can, and maybe even better)
Better match for the performance of the LR and typical router? (Low rigidity in the frame, weak motors and router means a smaller end mill is more suitable)
(As a side note, I really like this forum! Everyone is so nice and helpful.)
I have a MPCNC, so can’t speak to the lowrider itself.
I also need to apologize. I wasn’t paying attention and thought 6mm was closer to 1/8" and 8mm was closer to 1/4". I had the conversion in my head wrong.
For me, the 1/8" end mill is better because it cuts deeper into corners.
I have and do use a 1/4" end mill on some of my work. I typically have to cut slower on the MPCNC with the larger bit due to stiffness and lack of power on the smaller dewalt 660. I use the 1/4" when I need to pocket out something large.
I think I’ve seen quite a few people using 1/4" bits on their low rider when cutting out larger parts from plywood and other materials.
The 1/4" end mill won’t be able to get as detailed as a 1/8" and will leave a larger radius on the inside of corners.
Bigger bits remove more material, and they generally trade off in speed. If you are pocketing something out, or surfacing a board, then the larger bit will be faster on the whole, but smaller bits can cut slots faster (they have the advantage of just doing less work, removing less material). But material properties are a universal problem, and super tiny bits will have to go super slow to not break. I think 1/8" or 3mm is a good bit for most slotting/cutting out. And I think that is at least sort of confirmed by the prevalence of 1/8" saw blades being the most common kerf size. It just is a good balance of strength, with little waste (and wasted time). I can’t imagine cutting a sheet of plywood through with a 1/4" saw blade, but people often want to cut out a part on the CNC with a 1/4" bit. That just seems counterintuitive to me.
While these are similar in size, a 3mm bit will not stay in a 1/8" collet. I’ve tried and it will not tighten up. Same with the 6mm vs 1/4" If you decide to order bits from China then for 1/8" you need to order 3.175mm.
I have also ordered an ER16 adapter for my Makita and various ER collets from 1mm up. The shaft sticks out quit a ways even when put all the way into the router.
We can also be capricious, pedantic, obsessive, random, dada-esque, dali-esque, reuben-esque, distractible, opinionated, funny (intentionally, on occasion), literate, geeky (on so many topics), cosmopolitan, brilliant, boneheaded, and comforting as any collection of internet users you’ll ever find. Well, except for Barry, he’s an ass… j/k, he’s great, too.
I use a 3mm Chinese ER11 collet with my 1/8" end mills with my Makita without issues. I think I paid about 10 dollars for a set of 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 mm.
j/k, he’s great, too.
