Greetings.
Built my Primo at the start of the year. Having a lot of fun but in the Chicago area it’s getting nice outside finally and I am starting feel guilty I should be outside rather then the basement playing with my Primo.
Anyway went with the Makita Router I am very happy with it. All parts are from V1 including the Makita mount.
The Makita has a push botton spindle lock but also comes with the traditional two separate flat wrenches.
I’ve been using the two wrenches but curious on the thoughts on using the spindle lock? Concern as it transfers the torque into the Plastic mount which may loosen through time?
Also I have never tried to change a bit during a job. Just been doing complete jobs with the same bit.
If I want to change a bit, should move to positive Z to get some room and gently change the bit. zero Z, then run the new gcode for the new bit? Being careful not to move X Y.
Or do I then re-zero X,Y,Z then run again. I have end-stops.
Bring the Primo up in the garage, then you can do both!
Now I have a Dewalt and I use the spindle lock all the time with no issues.
As for tool changes, I’m sure there’s more then one way to skin a cat, but I do it the first way you mentioned. Raise Z, mount new tool, re-zero Z, and continue. I’m just very careful on how I apply torque so that I don’t force the steppers.
I will just tell my wife her car stays outside I actually put it on the finished part of the basement and she hasn’t said anything. She is also retired and for some reason is always on what ever floor I’m am not on?
Thanks for the feedback. I know the answer to so many questions could be…“Hey just try it…” but I like leaning on so many more experienced people for ideas. Just started a small job for my grand-son and did not want to try a tool change so I’m doing everything with a 1/16" bit. 23 min I’m sure should be half but other then the noise who cares?
I also have the Makita and I use the spindle lock when putting in the bit and then use the two wrenches to tighten it. I frequently do tool changes, even between 6mm and 1/8’’ collet. I was pretty scared that the router or the steppers might move, but I found out that it is nearly physically impossible to move them by hand. Granted, I use the big drivers, TB6600, but I think even with the small ones it should be pretty hard to move the steppers. Tip: If the bit won’t come out, gently hit it with a wrench. Take that!
Thanks I discover that but good to know.
Just finished a job and made the mistake of using a clamp just over the corner at X0,Y0,Z0 Thankfully it was a piece of wood. Lot’s of noise and happy I did not break the bit.
Another tip to aid bit removal (and reduce runout) is to not bottom the bit out in the collet “socket”. Leave a little “breathing room” when inserting the bit. The collet draws the bit deeper into the socket when tightening, so unless there’s room for it to move you can’t get it fully tightened. When removing the bit there will be room to “tap the tip” in order to get it to release from the collet.
Years ago there was a reader tip submitted to a magazine where the user put a little o-ring in his collet to provide that “springiness.” I just insert the bit all the way then pull it out about 1/16 - 1/8 of an inch. The shaft is still completely within the gripping portion of the collet, but in no danger of the end bottoming out.
Thank you. I’ve been woodworking for as long as I can remember and always kept the bit from bottoming. Read it in Fine Woodworking but thought it was vibration but never made sense but did it.
You explanation is spot on however.
What strange to this old woodworker is I spent 45 plus years dropping the bit into the router and now I fight gravity dropping the bit out.
Routers were always facing the sky when changing bits
I actually put it on the finished part of the basement and she hasn’t said anything. She is also retired and for some reason is always on what ever floor I’m am not on?
