I have seen it done both ways. Personally, I have not had any issues with chipping out, nor have any of the boards I’ve made ever given me the impression that this would be an issue. That’s not to say that the other way isn’t stronger or longer lasting in a cutting board setting — it probably is.
One of the main advantages of a V-bit is the ability to make sharp, tight corners and fine details, like in the sailboat above. If you are using a straight bit, you are limited by the radius of the bit in corners, and the diameter of the bit in tight areas. This makes a straight bit less desirable for intricate design choices.
I do not claim to be an expert. The thoughts here are a result of my own experience. But if you are planning to use a V-bit inlay on a cutting board, I would make the following two recommendations:
- Use a bit with a low angle (60° or less) so the inlay walls are more vertical than horizontal. This allows for a much deeper socket, and therefore a much larger gluing surface area. As seen here, a 30° V-bit reaches to more than 3 times the depth of a 90° V-bit when positioned at the same surface width.
- Many guides instruct you to leave a sizeable gap beneath the plug when creating a V-bit inlay, but this is not ideal for a cutting board. Since this is a functional piece, not decorative, I feel it is best to maximize the depth of the plug. However, this can also make it more difficult to set the inlay as there is very little room for error, and significant pressure may be required.
I hope this helps to answer some questions and provides a window to my thought process.