Hy Guys!
I am from Austria and my English is not the best!!
My Question is:
Can i use the Lowrider with a router bit like this - https://www.sautershop.de/planfraeser-z3-oe-35-mm-ti-fmc35-8?c=14118
My most important use for the lowrider is to plane wooden boards automatically like this - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J0SDvKHcL5M
can i to this with the lowrider (size 2500mmx1250mmx100mm) without modifications?
lg
Barry has a video in this thread
35mm is larger than I have seen before but 25 is pretty common. I would think it would work if you are careful.
Probably work. You’d need to play around with feeds and speeds. I also found out that if you hit the e stop in repetier the z assembly will drop, and the router won’t even slow down when that 1 inch surfacing bit hits the waste board. Hole is down on the lower left of the board in this picture. You can also see there’s quite a bit of twist in my table…
So I’ve been wondering this myself. I haven’t fully surfaced my spoilboard, just a few sections, adding a straight line step to set dimensioned boards into so my engravings come out in straight lines, and some general other testing.
I actually did most of it hand jamming my gcode vs building a model in SW/Fusion.
With the 1 inch whiteside surfacing bit (3 flute), I got smooth consistent results running up to I think 1200mm/min or 20mm/sec. I started with an 8mm stepover (roughly 30 percent) but found I had no change in results stepping a full 25mm (what like 99 percent stepover?). Turns out I have a high spot where one of my slats isn’t quiet bottomed out, resulting in a 2.72mm DOC. This is in mdf on a 611 router.
Just recently the bosses picked up a whisky barrel round table with a 48 inch round table made of home depots top shelf premium quality #2 knotty pine (ok I’m a wood snob and 1 hate pine and 2 hate box store lumber). The table was more egg shaped and looked like a drunk man cut it with a butter knife chucked up in a jig saw. Suffice to say I took it home to make it round. After a slight hiccup using a single flute 1/8th inch end mill where I think I got into a knot and or a hardened blob of glue I ended up chucking up a 1/2 inch 2 flute mortising bit to make the cut. Since I was taking so much material I bumped federated down to 65 percent of Ryan’s recommended settings of 15mm/s, with a 1.25mm DOC and she cut flawlessly given this was basically a blind slot over and over again. Took longer than I wanted it to, but those are the trade offs.
For all you seasoned lowriders out there, what do you use to make extended depth cuts on a non indexable parts(ie cant flip and cut from back side)? This top was a hair over an inch thick (1.050) with the 8th inch end mill chucked way down to get me the depth. By the end my bit was showing signs of overheating, not sure if it was dulled out (roughly 15 hours of cutting on amazon special like 15$ 6 pack of bits) or the shank was ever so slightly larger than cutting diameter so when the shank got down past the flutes it was rubbing my cut slightly with deflection from cutting so far from collet.
I’m wishing I could find a 3/16ths end mill style cutter with an 8th inch shank since most of my work is on 1 inch hardwoods. They make plenty of mortising bits with twice the cut diameter of the shank, but I’d rather run 3/16 on an 8th inch than a half on a quarter shank.
I think the wood bit I sell is 1" DOC maybe even a hair more, longest 1/8" I have seen.
Nice table, the epoxy is stunning!
I have a longer quarter inch endmill for stuff like that.
