Deltas: there are fast overall, but not allow a direct extruder, retractions problems, very difficult to configure.
hbot: need a very rigid structure and robust linear movements or else the print will be deformed.
corexy: almost no flaws, the only i can indicate is the length of the belts if you build a big printer.
I have before a prusa steel model and now i have an corexy printer. The corexy beats the prusa in speed, print quality and reliability by miles.
Your mpcnc use a very similar mechanism of a ultimaker. Is an design that prove is possible to build a good cnc with cheap hardware, but i think is main success was because you have chose a great mechanical design at first.
My corexy is a dual direct mk8 extruder (carriage of 800gr) and allow me to print without any artifact up to 80mm/s.
If you have some time check some corexy printers, i think there are the best mechanical design you can chose.
Focus on MPCNC, because thereās a new 3D printer every 20min :=)
The Itopie exists already and match all of you goal (with a lot of option, prusa i3 compatible, a perfect documentation, tested and corrected by a lot of people, totally customizable with generatorā¦fast to print, to mill and to buildā¦). But itās still a cartesian, a perfect printer for beginner, easy to build, to understand, but a bit slow. Or continue to make your own one, like we all do, because we all have different needs. But it takes some time to do a 3D printer from A to Z (we are human -> mistakes, try again, etcā¦)
Iām not agree with what you think about bowden: my bowden is short, the Gunstruder push the filament without grinding it, with muuuuch more torque than all my precedent extruder (mk7, mk8, direct, wades, beast_reprapworld_hobbed_bolt, etc), the motor stay cold, no stringing, no oozingā¦My printed parts for the MPCNC took me half the time you wrote and they are clean and strong (and I printed them slowly to avoid any mistake). I can print everything (soft filament, etcā¦).
Itās not just about mass and inertie moreover: 2 or 3 motors running almost always together have more torque in average. I read an article about that from a mathematician, but I donāt remember what is was exactly, but in conclusion of the article : delta could be faster, then corexy, then cartesian (from what I remember).
BUT! It took me a lot of time to make my corexy to work perfectly, and I had some experiences already. The BOM is long, the build was long, the calibration long, etcā¦Itās not perfectā¦
This thread is about is new prusa printer and not the mpcnc.
I have a lot of respect for the work of vicious, and i was waiting for is new printer. Only today i see it was finished. I was pretty sure it was designing a ultimaker like printer (was is the mpcnc), but i was disappointed to see it was a āsimpleā prusaā¦
To be honest i only started this discussion in the hope to convince to design a printer that use a corexy or ultimaker movement.
It might not be as masterfully engineered as other printers, or fast at printing things, but it looks incredibly simple to build and is a great project to utilize the mpcnc. Plus the BOM is low cost, and it already uses the extruder sold here for the mpcnc.
Canāt wait to see how it prints! If it is decent, I would love to build one. Some of the other printers people linked are cool, and some even more simplistic than this, but they are big and take up a lot of room. If I could build a few of these for a relatively low cost, it would open up 3D printing for other students in a very affordable way for the college. If we find that they get used a lot, then it isnāt hard to slap another one together.
I missed this thread when it started. I like Ryanās designs and I am looking forward to building one of these. I already have my PSM and the MK8 on my MPCNC but I am always looking for the next adventure.
Anybody have a name for this thing? Am I really going to do another āMPā?
Putting a page together now. Link it in a bit. New category āprojectā. I think the printer is considered an advanced project?
I want to do some more mpcnc parts next, and I finally have an lcd case idea, it will be an intermediate poject I think. milled or printed front and back panels, printed side capsā¦should be cool.
Since it requires parts to be milled by the MPCNC I suggest MPCNC3DP. Wow, that is a lot longer seeing it typed out than it was when I had it in my head. I am looking forward to making one.
So i crunched the numbers, i think it comes out to about $375 in hardware costs based on the links provided.
I have a bunch of end stops, so i didnt need those extra couple of bucks.
So other than a 10 dollar piece of wood, or acrylic (i may do mine in acrylic) thats fairly good.
thanks for doing this Ryan
This is really cool. I may end up trying to make this once I get my MPCNC finished. Iām thinking you can even cut more costs if you source the smooth and threaded rods locally. Iāve purchased them locally from Tractor Supply for over a 1/3 of the price then compared to online. I already have a makerfarm i3 prusa, but i think it would be awesome to have this as well.
I forgot the steppers. so it looks like its more like 425$ in hardware costs, plus the wood.
Starting to get up there for sureā¦ I thought it may be able to be done cheaper. But the linear bearings are nice, etc. so i think this should/could produce high quality prints at a fairly low price all things considered.
I could see myself printing and milling the parts for this, even if I donāt ever get around to finishing it. It seems like a neat project. Iām glad I didnāt make my first printer, but I would like to have the pride that comes with making my second.
Hopefully one of you guys can make one soon, so we can get some good videos and pictures of it printing. Iām still finishing my MPCNCā¦
I was absolutely going to make one of these, although im out of town until monday. I was a little surprised by the hardware costs. I expected it to be about half of what it was. Thats not a dig on ryan or the design or anything, I just wasnt aware what the actual cost of this stuff was. Those linear bearings are a lot (but needed for good quality prints) but increase the price 125$.
I may still make this printer, ill just have to see what makes sense.
Some people have been having success with them, after printing, scaling, printing, testing. etc.
Also, I think they should be a lot cheaper than that. Iāve heard the really crappy ones from China are about a 50% failure rate, but if they cost 10% of the good onesā¦
So those links are for information, you can find some of those parts much cheaper if you do some digging. I can look into making a bundle to try and get the prices down a bit further.
aHHHH, i didnt see that that was for quantity 12ā¦ i thought it seemed overly expensive haha.
that saves a good bit of money, like 112$ haha.
now its better
Ted, Iām just curious why you went with the double lead screws with brass(?) nuts instead of all-thread. Also what wood did you end up using for the frame? 1/4" MDF? Iām probably going to build an iTopie using 1/2" MDF instead of yours. I like the idea of the slots and tabs. Iām also thinking that the horizontal plate will keep things more square.
