AWESOME! Truly useful parts are the best!
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So running into bit of an issue. Wanting to make a bowl but I needed to test out the gcode and CAM before I went ahead and destroyed some wood. Iām using a 1/8" single flute from V1 and trying to get a final depth of 3/4" but ran into an issue where the red stopper on bit itself ran into the workpiece. Do longer cut 1/8" single flutes exist? or should I just remove the red stopper to achieve my depth?
I was thinking about using a 1/4" bit to achieve larger depths if needed for the adaptive and the contour cuts and end with a ball nose for finishing. What are my best steps forward?
You can see in the pictures where it hit both the part and the outer material and almost made a chamfer. The foam Iām using is 1" thick but man does it come in handy.
You can remove it (I just use pliers, itās a friction fit). They also make larger bits. Just remember that you need the flutes to remove chips and you need plenty of grip on the but in the chuck.
Yeah I agree. I think that all I need for spacing is the thickness of the red stopper piece itself and I would be good. Will try on my text piece in the next couple of days.
Jewelry Dish
Iām finally following up on my Motherās Day 2018 present and made my mom a jewelry dish for her earrings and rings. It is .75" tall and consists of purple heart and maple.
I used a 1/8" single flute end mill and 1/8" ball nose to complete the operations.
Face Operation - 16 min @ 16 mm/s of .02"
3D Adaptive - 4h 17m @ .75 mm DOC @ 20mm/s with RPMs at half using Harbor Freight Router control
Parallel Ballnose operation - 22 min @ .3175 mm step over (10% of 1/8ā BN) @ 25mm/s - only in X direction
2D Contour - .75mm DOC @ 20 mm/s
The ball nose operation will be removed for next time as I think it looked pretty good with only the end mill.
To control the speed I used a Harbor Freight router control that I got on Labor Day after a 25% off coupon for a total of $15. Its pretty slick. The speed I used was right under half.
The finish is just some mineral oil. All materials were purchased through inventables. I think V1 should start selling materials 
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Interestingā¦Anything specific? I had thought about this at one time but if I could figure out some shipping I donāt see much of an issue with doing this.
That looks like a great project with a few operations. Pretty cool use of a Robot Router!
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That Iām not really sure. My vision was similar to what Inventablesā material store looks like in terms of offerings but Iām not sure if thatās really economical for you or even wise. I just figured that since you offered some bits that the option for some material to also be included on the same order could help people single source everything from their preferred vendor.
IDK if it would work the same as inventables since they have very little customizability. But offering some pieces that fit in the box might help get people going. I wouldnāt want to order my materials always from you, but that might just be me. If itās sort of something to start with, then I think something on the more basic side, but something that will mill well. So Iād vote for BB. I could see adding a 10"x14" or whatever size those usps boxes are when making my original order, then Iād have a good place to start after I finished my crown drawing.
Something like 1/2" would be sturdy and small enough to ship.
I just got in my Digikey order. I love how their shipping system works. You can chose what carrier and see the rates, they use odd size boxes and dang does it get here fast. I need to find out how they do it. That would make my life so much better and could offer more things like materials, and hats! Shipping is the worst part of the jobā¦
I would think that something like MDF would be cheaper and somewhat more forgiving to mill than what Iām assuming is Baltic Birch?
Just call them and ask or find a logistics guy on LinkedIn and message him. Iām sure they have spent some time with some consultants to come up with their methods. Sounds like your next challenge!
Iām not sure if itās reasonable, but I feel like MDF dust is more toxic than baltic birch ply dust. Itās also harder, and a lot of it has a tough top and bottom, but softer middile, so itās not the easiest to mill. I havenāt tried everything, but I like baltic birch the best. And as far as the cost, it will be much less expensive than solid hardwoods, but still reasonable (IMO) in small quantities. Other plywood tends to have very thin veneer, which can be tough to keep from splintering. BB is like sugar cookie dough.
Interesting perspective. That makes a lot of sense. Only reason I suggested it was that it appeared that a lot of people do seem to use MDF for signs and things like that but one guy that I have been following on Inventables (I use them to see what projects people have come up) and one guy has begun to use PVC board as well which I want to try. I have some baltic birch though that I need to use up so Iām going to give that a try.
Iām sure itās been covered here before but I saw this and was reminded about a seminar I took ages ago about formaldehyde and other bad stuff.
[attachment file=68877]
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Thatās good to know. I wonder if they have such regulations in the US for pressed wood?
So have a question in regards to using the 45 Deg v-bit found on V1 shopping site.
I have attached three pictures that show my process, the first (IMG_0799) was done in foam with only the v-bit, the second (IMG_0798) was done in Bamboo with only the v-bit and the third (IMG_0797) was done in Bamboo with both a v-bit and 1/8" end mill.
The foam one appears to come out pretty well, however when it translates to the bamboo it shows some flaws in the corners and in the tail of the logo especially in the third (V-bit / Endmill) one. Donāt worry about the bottom finish because I used both sides of the board so it cut through.
I used the carve feature in EstlCam for all three with the following settings:
1/8" 45 Deg v-bit: 20 mm/s, 1mm DOC, 5% stepover
1/8" single flute end mill: 20 mm/s, 1 mm DOC, 45% stepover
Any suggestions on how to make these cuts better would be appreciated.
Deeper DOC, probably full depth, and a finishing pass.
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Iām using Estlcam 11 but I left the Depth Limit to automatic. What do you consider full depth for the v-bit?
What settings did you enter for the tool. screenshot is best.
Match the settings at the end of this vid, and add a .3mm finishing pass.
So I took your suggestion and used the specs in the video on foam and wood. Why on the foam is my cut so smooth but on wood (hardwood cutting board) it almost appears that the bit was being pushed too much.
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Though overall I think it came out pretty well but just wondering how I can improve on my future cuts. Oh and in your video what speed (RPMs) was your cutter at because you had really clean cuts on top and I was experiencing strings.
