You should try the long single flute from V1. I bet it could handle those settings well.
You could probably use the same tool for the finish just add an offset. That’s probably not the most professional advice but I think it’s with a try. 
Yeah, I could us the same, but single flute looks way better afterwards. The endmills I am using are from Sorotec, a German brand, they are top notch. So can’t be that. 
Thanks for the ideas though. Something must be loose and I can’t find it…
No worries! Just for clarification I was referring to using the single flute for both processes.
But that would take soooooooo much longer… 
I think you could have it going pretty quick. With my experience with aluminum (I haven’t cut any hardwood yet) and from the knowledge I have accumulated from the interwebs (mostly here) and the pros at work. Those will both do the job it’s just a matter of feeds and speeds. I’m not sure how long you think it will take, but if it’s any consolation this thing has probably close to or above 30hrs of cut time alone I wasn’t keeping track. Camara gimbal controller
If I had the new endmills I just got when I started it. Things probably would have been a little faster.
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hello philipp,
nice build and nice cuts ! this three positions reference rule is a smart idea !
i am very interested in your eletronics. is it a firmware that run the gcode on the arduino or is it running on your computer on estlcam?
can you able to adjust the feedrate or stop the program instantly from your computer with estlcam ? i tried all the weekend to find a way to do this with marlin but i am in a dead end.
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Hey Pouic, Estlcam runs on my computer, the board I use by arduinoclub.de (https://www.arduinoclub.de/2020/04/11/estlcam-control-card-with-arduino-mega-and-jog-wheel/) works together with an Arduion Mega for the output Estlcam creates. I am really happy with it, plus it forced me to use the TB 6600 drivers immediately which are really powerful. I can stop the program immediately and also control the feedrate (which I never used but should have, now that you mention it) from the computer. RPM is not possible with my Makita though.
I just checked all the bolts again and found out that I was able to wobble my core by around 0.2 mm. Tightened some screws, now the wobble is gone. Even more, I found out that one sound that always irritated me came from the bearings (all 4!!) of the trucks where the stepper sits, because I wasn’t really able to tighten them without taking the steppers off. One of the bearings didn’t touch the rail at all! Ugh. That was the sound and also (I hope) the chatter, at least it would make sense because it was exactly the direction where the truck would then lift a bit. Hope to be able to make a testcut on the weekend.
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of course the feedrate knob was my best friend during my short machinist career!
the only reliable action that i found to stop a program on marlin instantly is to shut the AC.
so your setup seems able to solve 2 of my problems. i’ll think about it 
Thanks for your advice and your helpful link
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I’m glad you found what sounds like the problem!
Thanks. The mega-chatter is gone, the machine is not jumping any more. I was also able to make a finishing pass, but it still did not take off 0.3mm. But hey, it’s a large machine made out of plastic. Maybe I expect too much.
One of the following days I am going to build a trebuchet (UTreb : the 1/8 Trebuchet : 4 Steps (with Pictures) - Instructables).
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The trebuchet had to wait, I needed to make some drawers for the kitchen in the kids’ playhouse. It was the first time that I used nearly the whole workspace and now I am glad I made it that big. Cuts took 23 minutes, I would not have been faster making the boxes with a table saw (without the finger joints then, obviously).
Used a 2.5mm “Spiralverzahnt” (https://www.sorotec.de/shop/Zerspanungswerkzeuge/sorotec-werkzeuge/1-8-werkzeuge/3-175----1-8---Fraeser/Spiralverzahnt/) with 1200mm/min and 3.5mm DOC.
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Looks great! How tight are the finger joints? I’m a little disappointed that my boxes are a little loose in the joints.
They can easily be put together but won’t hold without glue.
Quite similar then!
You’d need to make the gaps like, 0.2mm smaller, then it might work. But I am gluing them anyway, so I don’t mind.
Long time no mill, but today I made another box (which is quite nice, but that’s not the point). After fastening all my bolts etc. I can now say: My Z is perpendicular. Check out this more than sexy video of planing hardwood (beech), 2mm DOC, 16mm Endmill, 600mm/min, 75% stepover. And look at those shavings! 
It works better than with my 3.175mm endmill. -_-
Here is the result:
Isn’t it great? 
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Today I’d like to show you a project I am working on for the kids’ playhouse in the garden. I set myself the goal to make every window unique, so I am working on a window where the bottom half slides up. I know, you got a lot of those im America, but noone in Europe uses them. Like, really. Noone. At all.
When designing I also designed it that there would be a guide, but I made the sliders (?) the same thickness, plus they were warped and would not have moved. So I thought: Why not combine Woodworking with 3D printing and designed rails that are 1mm less thick and slightly round. It works like a charm, though they are not completely straight (had to print two because the mini only does 18cm, I needed 20). Hoping to finish the window tomorrow or the day after tomorrow to show it in the gallery.
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