Am pondering what form of latch system to incoporate into the table top surface.
T-track or dog holes ?
Today I reshaped a couple of Y plates from some 18mm plywood.
Originally I 3D printed each Y Plate but one bent so I’ve used the remaining one as a template to generate new ones. I simply cut the pieces approximately and thne used the router to get the exact shape.
will post some pix shortly.
The new plates are so much stronger but am not happy with stowing the gantry up high (as per pic) I feel it makes it top heavy so will move to bottom to create a lower COG
(Below) Here you can see how I’m using the origianly 3D Printed Y-Plate as a template to cut the shape using a router on a piece of plywood. (make sure to use a router bit with bearing that follows the contour )
Here is the final plywood shape.
Next up I’ll build a wood housing for the low rider for stowage purposes when the table top sits vertically.
I need it to be toddler proof as those little monkey fingers are into everything these days.
note: I should have eliminated the diagonal cut in the Standard Y-Plate shape and gone for a squared off shape to accomodate an extra wheel mount that allows a wheel to run beneath the table.
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finished the control box today. It has a hinge for opening and a wing nut for securing it till I can get a better locking system.
note: Regarding the sound proof housing. I’ve changed the location for the housing and as such am no longer going to build it under the kids play house as mentioned in post #1. Instaead I’ll convert a space under the veranda. I need an area approx. 2 x 1.5m square & the walls will be made from cheap packing ply (20mm) & lined with carpet / foam ) I’m predicting a wall thinckness of approx. 10cm
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Here’s my thoughts on the design for the sound proof booth.
I have the following area available.
So my thoughts are to extend the temp. shelving as per image below
This means the LR2 will be pushed into where the lower storage shelf is now… meaning I’ll have to raise the shelf approx. 20cm. and take out the bottom storage containers. The access door is now relocated to the left side of the booth.
So it begins… I managed to track down a few nice looking pallet boards made from ply. I went scaveging early this morning to the local industrial state where companies often leave stacks of pallet material on the street for collection. Strapped 6 of them to the roof of my little car (Hyandai i30 ) & off we go.
Here’s a few pix from my progress to date.
Raining today so tools down.
Look what Santa brought Daddy got for Christmas.
A nice messy space… The new shop vac will get it’s first workout today
4 x quick release latches allow me to dismantle in a couple of minutes.
(image below) Here you can see the set of shelves that I’m modifying… Originally there were two shevles, I removed the lower shelf so the LR2 can fit under the top shelf. I also made sure the router would pass under the shelf… It does but only by a cm so I feel I will raise the shelf a little more.
I designed this so I can easily dismantle each wall as they have latches on each corner. I’ve also added hinges to the roof so it can swing down when not in use and rest against the shelf vertically .
Some SOUND ADVICE : I’ve been researching sound proofing & like the idea of using heavy furniture moving blankets to supress noise. Seems they are an excellent choice as opposed to using professional sound proofing blankets.
Happy New Year !!
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Am thinking of adding a perspex viewing window in the main entry door with 2 layers of perspex.
Update: am almost finished sound proofing the walls and roof. I used a mix of bedding foam and on some walls several layers of carpet underlay. Over top of all is a layer of heavy carpet. These walls sure are heavy now when disconnecting and storing each away. (might have to use a set of detachable wheels). Think I’ll add an extraction fan as well.
More pix
Here you can see the first gray carpet pieces in position.
plastic cover required as we’ve had 6 days of rain
router plate varnish drying. ( Makita router )
Here’s some more carpet I found in the street… I only used the underlay as the carpet stunk of cat pee ! I’m not keen on working in a stinky booth.
worth noting - To date I’ve probably spent more time building the walk-in sound proof booth than building both the table and the LR2… sure has slowed my progress. This is due in part to recylcing most of the materials rather than simply purchasing new materials. The ply & 4x2 wood probably would have set me back a good $400, instead I went on a scavenge hunt. My car is not big, I always carry several tie-downs in the boot as well as an old yoga mat to place on the roof of the car before strapping materials down to protect the paintwork.
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more pix… this time of the Makita Router (RT700C) vacuum pickup and vacuum connector.
Download from Thingiverse is here
Think I’ll have to add LockTight to those bolts at a later date as I’ve not used lock nuts.
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Hello !
I can’t find the baud rate setting on my TFT 24-v1.1 screen
running on skr1.3 board drv8825 with the Marlin release downloaded from V1’s github : V1CNC_Skr1p3_DualLR_8825-2.0.7.2-src
I can control my steppers on pronterface via USB but not with the screen command.
"no printer attached "
I always had a blast anytime my kids (when they were tots) would help out. It looks like you might be too.
yup… kids always around wanting to hold screws or lend a hand. I normally have them indoors while using power tools though. Thry watch no lookn through the window. Once finished I open the door again and they come bounding out wanting to see what new stuff Daddy’s built.
So what’s new… since my last post.
- I bought a house !! ( our first house )
- I had to put the project on hold till after the move.
- some parts LR2 parts broke during the move… (plastic parts… so simply printed more )
4 Now I have my own garage Yehaaa !!! LR2 is now setup and nearly ready to cut.
5. Time to surface the spoilboard
Whilst moving I procurred a few new tools including
a nail gun /staple gun / Wood working lathe / Table Saw
pondering all the possibilites… mmmm
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my table (2mx1m) sags slightly in the middle as the outside edges along the Y axis are 2-4 mm high.
A pocket cut starting from the center working outwards might fix it I feel.
Another ISSUE - X Axis tube TWIST - The tubes are not the same height… one tube end is 2-3mm higher.
How to rectify this ???
All is running smoothly.
I have created several nice pieces and will try out a little V Carving shortly.
Add a dart Board !!
Being that the table can be stored vertically I decided to screw a dartboard to the bottom of the table. I added an LED strip to one of the table leg cross beams so now I can paly darts each evening as well.
The inspiration came to me just after I’d just finished constructing a dart board case as seen in the image below… I might use the black case as a table saw sled instead,
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Very clever.
Moving forwards -
Have now moved into using ASPIRE
Am considering mounting my Makita table saw beneath the LR2 table so it sits flush withthe LR table surface… but am unsure as the table saw surface is metal meaning it would defeat the use of the spoil board… unless there’s a way to lift the table saw up so it sits flush & then drop it down out of the way & insert a portion of the spoil board back into place. This might be more a headache to level the spoil board though… hhmm ?
But right now my main concern is the twisting of the X-Axis tubes.
You want you table saw to be higher than the outfeed table. So you would have to have a removable spoil board. And I wouldn’t want to send my bit into my table saw, so you would also want a spoil board on the table saw, but those all need to line up at the end to be very flat.
Is your table saw portable or a contractor size? If it was a portable one, you could have the whole surface be one spoil board, and then remove the spoil board and put the table saw on a shelf where it was a little proud of the surface. But then, you still need a spot for the saw.
Another option is to build a table saw stand and just use the LR as a separate outfeed.
I have a tradie table saw (portable) and & built a small table with caster wheels for it.
It sits flush with the LR table but once I added the spoil board … no more. So I might simply add a little left over spoil board under the table table to boost it up slightly & be content with simply using the LR2 table as an outboard table for the saw.
Instead I might mount a Makita plunge router I have under the LR2 Table. :)So it’s been a few weeks since my last post… so time for a quick update.
I’ve been running a few test cuts with12mm plywood. The cuts started out very smooth but after 10-20min. suddnely the machine starts missing data been sent to the drivers & the machine begins moving erratically in the X-axis direction. To the extent that I have to stop the machine and reset everyting which in turn means I just wasted a lot of plywood 
for anyone interested… this problem is being resolved in a seperate post I started called “Ghost in the Machine”
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Plasma Cutter / Welder
I have recently backed a KickStarter campaign called “YES Welder”
A 4 in one welding system… TIG / MIG / ARC & PLASMA !! all in one box WOW !
The TIG has no foot peddle and it is a DC welder… so best for backyard projects only I feel.
I’m wondern how the plasma cutter would go on a LR2 ?
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