First of all, I want to make it clear that guide rails like these are not mandatory, the machine works perfectly well as designed by Ryan. I had issues with my machine tracking so originally I just added some guide rails to the table and that fixed all my problems.
I went with rails due to the following. I wanted a dust boot that snapped under the 611 plate without losing depth of cut —> I bought a new clamp mount that held the router lower —> Now I could install a dust boot under the plate ----> Now i’m cutting pretty high on my z axis (using a 3/4 spoil board) so I wanted to raise my wheel level, also the dust boot was only working OK but I still had to constantly keep dust away from the wheel travel to avoid marks when surfacing —> This is when I switched to rails as they would not be effected be dust, my ride height was higher so I could run my gantry very close to bottom Z.
I got rails that were too long for the table, I over hung them on one side so I could do easy tool changes and dove tail joints on vertical boards. I have so far regretted this decision because during the first bit change my 60 degree V bit dropped out of the router right down onto the concrete floor. DAMN.
Installing the rails was easy, I just bolted down one side, cut a piece of wood to the exact spacing I wanted and then pulled the other rail against it as I secured it to the table. This way I did not have to measure and the rails are exactly parallel. My angle brackets were actually cut from C-channel (from our scrap bin at work) hopefully when I get into cutting aluminum I can cut new ones because these are pretty rough. My belt tensioner bracket was also re-used which I will need to upgrade. Ideally I would have put a bigger table top on and cut a big “U” out of one side but wanted to see how the rails worked first without spending money on a 1" MDF top.
After squaring everything up (I will skip this detail unless someone is curious) I trammed the lowrider and checked for square. on a 600mm x 800mm triangle the diagonal is bang on 1000mm. I was always about half a mm off on a 300x400 triangle when I had my old rails and wheels (I see this as a significant improvement) best thing is, I don’t have to square up the machine, it just stays square and I can pull it by hand into place, fire it up and its good to go.
Cut some stop blocks that snap onto the rails and are just friction fit but very tight. These will be used as stops when I start a complicated project so I have a reference point in the event the machine crashed. These were cut with 1/4 upcut bit at 8mm DOC and 20mm/sec. Lots of chips but the ID was bang on with a 0.3mm cleanup pass.
After all the messing around I had to knock out a quick project to keep the wife happy (and the kiddo).
All in all I am happy with the results, the next step would be aluminum XY corner pieces that another forum member had designed… Why?.. because I can!