NE Ohio Build

Omg. My spreadsheet looked almost identical!

Milestone hit today. Got the core assembled and the gantry bolted down. The way it moves…so smooth.

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Motors, idlers and belts came in this weekend. Got it all installed and the Z-axis assembled. Just need to square it up and tension the belts and I can consider it built! Then, I wait on my electronics and start on the steep learning curve to get it to move…
I am amazed at the level of design that went into this thing. It is SO well thought out and a truly enjoyable build. Great job, guys!


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That’s all Ryan. Working full time out of his garage. Great job, Ryan.

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Ryan is the whole shebang we are just the cheerleaders and kibitzing clan and part time meat cookers. This is a great system and wonderful place to converse and get answers

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:grin:


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Nice! Love me some SKR boards!

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So as I was going through checking everything out before starting to wire it up, I noticed something about the wiring harnesses that came with my motors (NOT the ones from V1). The motors do not have built in wirings. 4 of the harnesses are wired the same at the motor plug, and one is different. The terminal plug is the same on all of them. Why in the world would one be different?

Based on the electrical schematic, it looks like the polarity of A-C is flipped. Does that even matter?

Terminal Plugs
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Motor Plugs (the one on the right is different)
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Motor schematic from the store

Looks the same to me :roll_eyes: sorry looking at the wrong picture your right

It is swapping black and green, which on the dupont look like they are on the same coil. With everything else the same, that will just rotate the other way. If you don’t like the way it is rotating, you can rotate the whole dupont plug to make it reverse again.

Not a huge deal.

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Well…we’ve got movement and no smoke! I initially had a little trouble with what sounded like clicking/grinding/skipping from the motors. I played around a little with belt tension (tighter made it worse), then the core clamps. Turns out, I had them a little too tight. Backed everything off a little bit and it seems to be moving pretty smoothly now.
I need to go back and redo the squaring of the gantry, though. My X trucks are about 0.5" off from one side to the other.
I’m ready to clean up the wiring and get it moving on its own!

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So…I’ve got some stuff to dial in…

I’d start with checking that the grub screws in the pulleys are on the flats of the motor shafts and are tight so there’s no slipping when the motors change direction.

How was the pen held to the machine?

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Thanks, Tom. I’ll start there when I get back to it. The pen is held with the mount Ryan has on Thingiverse.

That’s a good solid mount. Sometimes the pen is more shakily connected when folks ask for assistance. Doesn’t look like that’s the problem this time around.

Well you were spot on about the grub screws. I got them all tightened back down (need to pick up some Loctite).

I’m having a hell of a time finding the right balance of belt tension and truck/core “firmness” to keep everything square without the motors skipping. The motors I got say they are 60 oz.in, but it seems very finicky between belts being too loose and skipping on the pully or a half turn more and it’s too tight and the motors are all jumpy.

Right now, I have the core back off, all of the trucks super loose to make sure I’m not binding, and I’m STILL getting a skip/hop from time to time just running back and forth in manual.

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How do you have them wired? Is it one motor driver per motor, series, or parallel wiring? And what controller do you have? The rambo and skr boards configure the current in the software, but the RAMPS and CNC shields need the little trim pot adjusted.

They are wired in series on the SKR board/drivers from the store (using the wire harnesses from the store too). Do I need to adjust the current?

I told you guys the electronics would slow me down.

Nope. They should be set in the firmware. You can adjust the current with a command from repetier host or from cncjs.

Making that higher will make it stronger and skip steps less. But if the motors get too hot, they will melt their mounts. Under 50C is a good choice.

If the drivers aren’t cool enough, they might be reducing the current. I think you can tel by reading the output from M122.

All that will only mean you can tighten the belts a bit more. There should be a wide range above (The belts are causing things to giggle) and below (The belts are causing me to skip steps).

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Thanks, Jeff. I’ll see what I can figure out tomorrow when I get back to it. Everything should be plenty cool out in the garage right now. Based on the setup instructions and all the reading I’ve done from other builders on here, it sure doesn’t seem like it should be this finicky. So, I’m sure I’m just not doing something right.